OmniHub High Voltage Wiring

[GaryParr]

Hello all,

I'm getting a new pool installed, well, now. It's all Hayward equipment including a Tristar VS pump, AquaRite, and Universal H. Now, due to a snafu between the installer and distributor, I'm getting the VS Omni version of the pump for the cost of the regular Tristar I had ordered. So, that's a win. Now, when it comes to wiring this all together, I'm trying to minimize the risk of nuisance GFCI trips caused by the VS pump. My thinking here was to isolate the pump on its own breaker, feed the OmniHub off a separate breaker and wire the AQR and heater into the Hub junction box. Seems reasonable... the Omni has 3 knock outs, so that's 1 in and 2 out.

Is there any reason anyone can think of why this would be a bad idea?

All of the documentation from Hayward shows they want the VS pump wired to the hub. My assumption is they are doing a CYA so if the pump trips the breaker, the hub itself shuts down causing any connected devices (salt, heater, whatever) to stop operating to avoid damage. But, that seems overkill to me. Since the Hub talks to the pump via the comm cable and because the hub has a flow switch connected, if the pump dies for any reason the hub should see it almost immediately and react accordingly.

Follow-up question... I'm assuming when you add the daughter board to the AQR and hook it to the hub, the flow control that was supposed to go the AQR instead goes into the hub. The daughter board directions do not mention this, but it seems logical.

Thanks in advance,
Gary

 

[GaryParr]

So... no one?

 

[VinceL]

Our pool was installed in 2012 with a Hayward Prologic system and Hayward EcoStar pump. The pump is on its own dedicated GFCI breaker. After a couple of years, we started having breaker trips on the pump circuit. I contacted Hayward and they sent out a local service tech. He did almost a full rebuild on the pump, and we still had problems. I contacted someone else at Hayward support who asked me what brand of breaker was controlling the pump. I told him, and he said Hayward doesn't recommend using that brand of GFCI. I bought the recommended brand, installed it, and we have had no problems since.

Since there is a comm link from the pump to the Prologic, it the pump should stop, the Prologic loses communication and shuts down everything.

 

[GaryParr]

Thanks for the info Vince. I've noticed most of the VSP/GFCI posts are from about 5 years back. I'm wondering if newer pumps and newer breakers are more friendly with each other.

 

[guinness]

Gary, take a look at the OmniHub installation manual since I think you may have a misunderstanding about wiring. The only wiring from your pump to the OmniHub should be the low voltage RS485 control wire. The pump itself should run off a specialized GFCI breaker like the Siemens QF220A - search this forum to get further info.

 

[GaryParr]

The only wiring from the pump to the OmniHub should be the low voltage RS485 control wire.

Thanks Guinness, appreciate the response. I'm talking about the high voltage wiring, not the comm link. The OmniHub runs off either 115v or 230v and has 3 knock-outs into a sort-of junction box for this wiring to come into. In every document from Hayward they show the pump getting it's power by tying into this junction box. I'm just wondering if there is some specific reason for this.

 

[guinness]

They do show that as an option, but it's purely for wiring convenience not a requirement. Pages 12 & 13 of the installation manual cover the following scenarios.

Powering Hub and VSP with Same Voltage
Variable speed filter pumps require constant power and are turned on and off through low voltage communication wiring from the OmniHub. Because the OmniHub must also be powered continuously, it may be most convenient to wire the VSP and OmniHub in parallel, on the same circuit

Powering Hub and VSP with Different Voltage
Wire the Hub and VSP separately if using different voltages for both. If the new pump requires a different voltage than the old, run a separate source from the electrical panel. The Hub, which can be powered by either 115 VAC or 230 VAC, can be powered by the existing timeclock or switch.

 

[GaryParr]

... Pages 12 & 13 of the installation manual cover the following scenarios.

Appreciate it Guinness, somehow I completely missed that!