Omni PL Upgrade Kit Hayward Automation

What do the + and - marks on the switch mean?.......does + means more pressure is required to open or it allows more water pressure into heater?

The water pressure switch does not "allow" more or less water into the heater. That is done by the thermal regulator.

The WPS is binary. It is on or off. It simply tells the heater control that there is adequate water pressure in the heater and it is ok to turn on.
 
The water pressure switch does not "allow" more or less water into the heater. That is done by the thermal regulator.

The WPS is binary. It is on or off. It simply tells the heater control that there is adequate water pressure in the heater and it is ok to turn on.
I confirmed WP switch is operation correctly, closes with water pressure from filter on then closes when off.

Now on to another switch.....
 
Sorry for might be a silly question.

I have Hayward AquaPlus Controller and want to install the Hayward ProLogic to OmniPL Upgrade Kit. How can I tell if the upgrade is compatible with my PayPak 8450ti-e-hc heat pump?
 
I have Hayward AquaPlus Controller and want to install the Hayward ProLogic to OmniPL Upgrade Kit. How can I tell if the upgrade is compatible with my PayPak 8450ti-e-hc heat pump?

Your Raypak 8450ti will work with the OmniPL using the same "fireman's switch" control that your Aquaplus uses.
 
Your Raypak 8450ti will work with the OmniPL using the same "fireman's switch" control that your Aquaplus uses.
Thank you. I appreciate the response but what is "fireman's switch" control? (NEVERMIND, I GOOGLED IT)

One more question (should have asked in last post), will it control my Pentair Intellibrite 5G White and Color Pool Lights? Will I be able to select the light scenes without toggling them on and off six times to get to California Sunset mode? Or 4 times for Caribbean?
 
Thank you. I appreciate the response but what is "fireman's switch" control? (NEVERMIND, I GOOGLED IT)


One more question (should have asked in last post), will it control my Pentair Intellibrite 5G White and Color Pool Lights? Will I be able to select the light scenes without toggling them on and off six times to get to California Sunset mode? Or 4 times for Caribbean?

No, the OmniPL is no better at controlling a Pentair LED light then the AquaPlus is.
 
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Any suggestions on how to automate the Pentair LED lights?

Replace your Aquaplus with a Pentair IntelliCenter and IntelliChlor SWG.

Then you have all Pentair equipment except for your Heat Pump.
 
My system is 100% Hayward except for the lights, I chose Pentair because they were $300 each compared to Hayward Colorlogic at $600-$700 each. They are controlled by the OmniLogic but just on and off no light sequences or color changes.
 
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My system is 100% Hayward except for the lights, I chose Pentair because they were $300 each compared to Hayward Colorlogic at $600-$700 each. They are controlled by the OmniLogic but just on and off no light sequences or color changes.
Thanks. Do you have IntelliBrite 5G lights? If so, did you try to toggle them off and on 2-7 times for the light show feature?

BTW...SGT? Did you serve in Army? I was in for 20 years.
 
Thanks. Do you have IntelliBrite 5G lights? If so, did you try to toggle them off and on 2-7 times for the light show feature?

BTW...SGT? Did you serve in Army? I was in for 20 years.

No they are just the older (2018) Pentair AquaLight Halogen 120V 250W (AMP30-633) lights, no features. Was trying to find LED replacement bulbs for them but hard to find.

No Army just Law Enforcement.
 
No they are just the older (2018) Pentair AquaLight Halogen 120V 250W (AMP30-633) lights, no features. Was trying to find LED replacement bulbs for them but hard to find.

No Army just Law Enforcement.
Gotcha.

Thank you for your service. My brother was 30+ years as an LEO.
 
Hello all, I just installed my OmniPL Retofit kit this weekend. I had Prologic that main board died. I was unable to get previous settings, but my setup is not complex. I have a tristar VS 950, color logic lights, tcell15, old S&D, and old Acid feeder. I did not connect S&D and feeder as they are not compatible. Once thing I did not do is change my color logic from Networked to standard (no idea how since my system was dead before). Right now my pump does not turn unless I turn on my lights. When I do turn on lights, lights do not work. Do you think I have something configured wrong or is the color logic messing with the pump? Appreciate any feedback.
 
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Hello all, I just installed my OmniPL Retofit kit this weekend. I had Prologic that main board died. I was unable to get previous settings, but my setup is not complex. I have a tristar VS 950, color logic lights, tcell15, old S&D, and old Acid feeder. I did not connect S&D and feeder as they are not compatible. Once thing I did not do is change my color logic from Networked to standard (no idea how since my system was dead before). Right now my pump does not turn unless I turn on my lights. When I do turn on lights, lights do not work. Do you think I have something configured wrong or is the color logic messing with the pump? Appreciate any feedback.

You just have some of the wires hooked up wrong to the relays I would just start tracing light wires from the conduit and same with pump.

I would try the S&D in the OmniPL connector because some of the people on here mentioned it was only early versions of the old S&D that had non compatible firmware, some firmware will work. I went out and bought all new S&D HL-CHEM, its IDENTICAL to the old S&D I had but firmware obviously different.

T-CELL Current Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
T-CELL Voltage Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K1 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K2 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
T-CELL Current Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
T-CELL Voltage Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K1 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K2 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​

You have the same T15 Salt Cell as me can you let me know if you start to see the TCELL Sensor open/ Sensor closed errors that wont clear with power cycle of GFCB's


Hayward Tech Support is telling me to now DOWNGRADE my MSP firmware to clear these errors WTF?
 
You just have some of the wires hooked up wrong to the relays I would just start tracing light wires from the conduit and same with pump.

I would try the S&D in the OmniPL connector because some of the people on here mentioned it was only early versions of the old S&D that had non compatible firmware, some firmware will work. I went out and bought all new S&D HL-CHEM, its IDENTICAL to the old S&D I had but firmware obviously different.

T-CELL Current Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
T-CELL Voltage Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K1 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K2 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
T-CELL Current Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
T-CELL Voltage Sensor Open Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K1 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​
icon_alarm.png
CHLOR Relay K2 Stuck Closed Chlorinator1​

You have the same T15 Salt Cell as me can you let me know if you start to see the TCELL Sensor open/ Sensor closed errors that wont clear with power cycle of GFCB's


Hayward Tech Support is telling me to now DOWNGRADE my MSP firmware to clear these errors WTF?
Thanks for reply and sorry for not replying sooner. We had a hurricane hit down here and this weekend was first weekend available to play with system. To answer your question, No I am not receiving any errors with T15 cell. That is one thing that has been solid. I also tried connecting the S&D and that was not detected in any of the three ports.

I did some more troubleshooting on my side. I reset the config and started from scratch. Only installing the VSP. What I notice is that it doesn't detect my VSP HUA by default. In order for it to detect it, I have to go into service mode and turn on HVR1 (which is where the pump is connected). Then it gives me the HUA. I continue the setup. Once it saves and restarts, HUA is gone. I checked the dip switches on the pump and 1 is on and rest are off. I also tried with all off. Same outcome. My earlier post stating that the pump turns on when lights are on was because I wrongly configured the lights on HVR1. Lights are actually on HVR2. I am beyond frustrated trying to get this guy to work properly. Exact model of my pump is SP32950VSP.
 
Your VS pump should be connected to constant power, not switched through the LOAD side of the relay.

Post pics of your Panel open showing the wiring, CBs, and relays.
 
Move the red cables to the LINE IN screws of the filter/pump relay.

That will keep your pump always on so the panel can communicate with it when the pump is not running.
 

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