Old Dog learning New Tricks!

[jseyfert3]

Mix between drops. Use your SpeedStir if that continues working.

Mix after each of the first two reagents are added as well. Basically for FC/TA/CH just fill the tube to the appropriate mark, drop in the mixing bar, stick it on the SpeedStir, fire it up and then start the test process. I really like using the lights on the SpeedStir as well, makes it way easier to see the color changes.

 

[mknauss]

CH test is best done with the speedstir. Add drops slowly. The color change can be slow at higher levels.

 

[Waiawa]

I decided to test the CH the same way I did the first time.
Here's the results for CH & TA for my fill water:
CH = 250
TA = 120

 

[Dirk]

The color change can be slow at higher levels.

This has been my experience. The closer I get to the expected result, the slower I go between drops.

 

[mknauss]

Do you use a water softener for your tap water?

 

[Waiawa]

For some reason the CH doesn't look blue, but more of a lavender color...did it multiple times to be sure I would see the same color.
Love that SpeedStir...I'm spoiled for life now!!

 

[Waiawa]

Do you use a water softener for your tap water?

Our water softener is only to the house and not to the outside spigots...the spigots are city tap water.

 

[Dirk]

I'll get a test of my fill water and report back....Great idea jseyfert3!

If you're using the Pool Math app, you would have created a "Pool" to track your pool's test results. Create a second one, and name it "Fill" or something similar. Record the test results of your fill water in the second "Pool" within your Pool Math app. It's a great place to keep track of your fill water's chemistry numbers, and you can repeat this test periodically to see if anything changes.

My municipality uses multiple water sources, rotated throughout the year. Some are ground water, another is a lake, etc. They have significantly different chemistries. Recording my fill water test results over time has given me clues to how best to strategize the management of my pool's chemistry, which, as you're learning, is greatly affected by fill water chemistry.

 

[Waiawa]

This has been my experience. The closer I get to the expected result, the slower I go between drops.

I go slow all the way just to be sure all drops are the same, at least I'm hoping they are because I just want to squeeze the bottle, but I don't.

 

[Dirk]

For some reason the CH doesn't look blue, but more of a lavender color

That's common. Mine takes a while to get to true blue. Which is why I wait longer between those last drops, to make sure the blue has a chance to develop.

 

[Dirk]

Our water softener is only to the house and not to the outside spigots...the spigots are city tap water.

Let's take a look at the CH of your fill water, and then we can discuss the benefits of topping off your pool with soft water, if it's warranted.

 

[Waiawa]

If you're using the Pool Math app, you would have created a "Pool" to track your pool's test results.

Recording my fill water test results over time has given me clues to how best to strategize the management of my pool's chemistry, which, as you're learning, is greatly affected by fill water chemistry.

I record all my test on an Excel sheet so I can insert notes for each test, for future reference.
Hmm...I guess I need to test my fill water periodically now...good to know.
Thank you!

 

[Waiawa]

Let's take a look at the CH of your fill water, and then we can discuss the benefits of topping off your pool with soft water, if it's warranted.

See post #43 for the fill water results.

 

[jseyfert3]

Here's the results for CH & TA for my fill water:
CH = 250
TA = 120

Okay, some basics. If the pool does not get rain that causes overflow, and there is not splashout, then CH will accumulate over time as water evaporates and is refilled from the city water. So it's fairly common that CH will rise over time, eventually requiring a partial drain/refill to lower, unless you live in a rainy climate where pool overflows or drains due to rain water increase is common. I suspect that is not the case in Texas.

TA on the other hand does not accumulate like CH does. If your fill water has a higher TA than the pool water, the TA will increase when filling. Generally, adding acid to control pH rise will tend to a gradual drop in TA over time, assuming TA is not added via other sources. Borax, for example, will add TA, as will baking soda. If you hold off on adding additional Borax, and just add acid to control pH rise, I suspect your pool TA will slowly drop from 150 over time. This is why I suggested taking no immediate action on TA until we knew your fill water TA.

Love that SpeedStir...I'm spoiled for life now!!

Next up, the SampleSizer!

I record all my test on an Excel sheet so I can insert notes for each test, for future reference.

Can add notes in the PoolMath app as well.

 

[Waiawa]

Okay, some basics. If the pool does not get rain that causes overflow, and there is not splashout, then CH will accumulate over time as water evaporates and is refilled from the city water. So it's fairly common that CH will rise over time, eventually requiring a partial drain/refill to lower, unless you live in a rainy climate where pool overflows or drains due to rain water increase is common. I suspect that is not the case in Texas.

TA on the other hand does not accumulate like CH does. If your fill water has a higher TA than the pool water, the TA will increase when filling. Generally, adding acid to control pH rise will tend to a gradual drop in TA over time, assuming TA is not added via other sources. Borax, for example, will add TA, as will baking soda. If you hold off on adding additional Borax, and just add acid to control pH rise, I suspect your pool TA will slowly drop from 150 over time. This is why I suggested taking no immediate action on TA until we knew your fill water TA.

Next up, the SampleSizer!

Well we do get some rain and it can be heavy, just doesn't last very long...there is rain in the forecast, but only at 50% chance.
Not very much splashing now...maybe in the summer.
How bad is the CH for fiberglass pools?
I'll test the treated water and see how the CH is, then I could displace the water in the pool with that.

I'll also add some acid a little at a time and test PH/TA between treatments.

SampleSizer!
If I get that I just as well have someone treat the pool for me...I need a little brain stimulation even if it's just filling a vial to the exact line.
It is a cool tool to have though, and I would think about getting it if it wasn't so messy.

 

[jseyfert3]

Well we do get some rain and it can be heavy, just doesn't last very long...there is rain in the forecast, but only at 50% chance.
Not very much splashing now...maybe in the summer.

To be very clear, rain will only reduce the CH if the pool overflows or you need to drain the pool due to the rain. If this is not the case, then the rain is just topping up the pool without increasing or decreasing the CH.

How bad is the CH for fiberglass pools?

Some fiberglass gel coats can have an issue with too little calcium in the water. My understanding is this is more and more rare, but the TFP recommendation is to maintain a minimum of 250 ppm CH, and you'd want to avoid a very negative (less than -0.6) CSI. I have a vinyl pool so I'm not extremely familiar with fiberglass, perhaps someone more familiar than me can chime in here.

I'll test the treated water and see how the CH is, then I could displace the water in the pool with that.

Treated from your softener? If so, should be zero, or very close to zero. If not, the softener is not working correctly. And yes, some people top up their pool with softened water if they are having issues with CH buildup, which can avoid replacing water. The tradeoff is extra wear on the water softener, and extra salt usage. For those who deal with CH buildup I suspect this is well worth it vs the hassle of a water change. Luckily this does not include me...despite a tap CH of 350-400, we get plenty enough rain that my CH dropped due to overflow and draining. Plus I have to do a partial drain in the winter.

 

[Waiawa]

Well, we can and have had rain that would cause an overflow, but not very often, especially where I'm locating in Austin.
Yes, treated from my softener.
It looks like I'm actually ok with it being 500 according to your pic, so I won't bother with it for awhile.

Thank you ALL very much for your suggestions and advice!
And I hope you and your Family have an Awesomely Merry Christmas!

Aloha!

 

[Dirk]

See post #43 for the fill water results.

At CH250 and without significant rain replacing overflow, your CH will accumulate. I don't know enough about fiberglass to tell you how big a problem that is, but I suspect you'll want to maintain a relatively constant CH. Which means either replacing water periodically (I couldn't say how often), or topping off evaporated water with soft water.

Keep an eye on how quickly your CH rises, and that will help you determine if you want to pursue filling with soft water. The other thing to consider: say you determine your target CH is 250. And you notice the CH is climbing faster than you like. So you have to exchange water. But your fill water is 250. Which means in order to reduce CH to 250, you'd have to replace just about all of your water!

You can top off with soft water in a couple ways. You can do what I did and connect an auto-fill system to your home's soft water plumbing circuit. Do you have auto-fill for your pool? Or you can just run a hose from a soft water spigot or faucet and fill from that. Which sounds kinda inconvenient. It's simple enough to plumb an exterior soft water hose bib. I could walk you through that, if you like. Basically just finding an indoor sink located opposite a convenient outdoor wall, and punching the indoor plumbing through the wall to the outside. It's not as bad as it sounds.

 

[Dirk]

For some reason the CH doesn't look blue, but more of a lavender color...did it multiple times to be sure I would see the same color.

@jseyfert3 and I and a few others continued the CH test conversation in a private thread (the red, purple, blue dealio). The gist: a lavender color is not a valid end to the test. You need to get to blue. If it won't get to blue, even with waiting extra seconds between drops, then you might have some metal interference going on. Did you try the extended test method for CH? See post #7 of this thread:

Extended Test Kit Directions

Extended Test Kit Directions These directions are for use with test kits based on Taylor chemistry, such as the TF-100 from TFTestKits.net, the Taylor K-2006, and the Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit, and also for a few other tests that are commonly recommended here at TFP. Over the...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Waiawa]

Sorry for the late reply, been a little busy lately!

Thank you Dirk!
I'll definitely do that extended test...very good info!