Take 2 of the plumbing, moved the water bond, and replaced the 90s with SCHD 40...I don't know if am still going to have the same issue with the bond being where it is now...I was thinking that I could move the water bond to the filter outlet side (where the flo-vis is now), and move the flo-vis to right in front of the SWG (or the bond if that is better solution)...I don't know if having a check valve there will inhibit proper flow sensing (I will still have 12-18 inches of straight plumbing). Nothing is glued yet, so I can move stuff around as needed.
You want someplace where the water will not drain away from when the pump is off. Your return pipe should maintain water between it and the pool. The pump and filter can drain it's water back into the pool if you have any small leak in a PVC joint.
Oh I'll be watching this closely! In MoCo and dreaming of our own pool one day.
What made you decide OB? Are you a contractor or in construction background?
I've gotten a few "mouth" quotes ( nothing in writing) about pools here from a few companies. The FG company said starting at 70k and the other two gunites said 100-125. We have always leaned toward FG since we just want rectangle. I wish river pools came to Moco. Also, why did you go with leisure pools?
So...why O/B - I am sort of a hybrid, we are using installers to excavate and set the pool...I was just doing the other stuff. It was sort of driven by a few factors:
We were going with gunite, but b/c our pool was smaller and a basic shape, fiberglass was a financially reasonable alternative (our gunite estimates were in the $100K-$125K range...fiberglass options were SIGNIFICANTLY less)
Leisure pools had the size and styling we liked (and couldn't find anything we liked as much locally)
There isn't a Leisure Pool distributor in the area so they offered their installers
I thought about using a local installer, but it would have caused issues with the warranty (according to Leisure)
Once we decided to go with fiberglass, we found we REALLY like the Leisure Pool products (size, shape and colors). I decided to purchase my own equipment b/c it was more "bang for the buck" than buying it from Leisure. This forum was extremely helpful is the selection.
I am not a contractor, but am very "handy" and have done basically everything you could do to a house (short of roofing) over the course of my lifetime...so, doing some of this work was going to keep me a bit distracted and save me some $$$ in the process. I will/did have to outsource some of the work (sub-panel installation, heater hook up) but for some of the "just get in the yard and do it" sort of work...it was good "don't stress about the install" therapy.
The waterline tile...my wife is a showroom manager for a tile company and has been in the business her entire life, so I sort of have an in when it comes to those types of products. I can get you the information if you like. One of the other things that made me realize I could get this done was the fact that my brother used to own a pool company in Indianapolis...and while he isn't weighing in too much right now, he is there if needed.
We have a trusted general contractor that will assist with some of the odds & ends once we get the shell set and he is my contact for the trades that I can't handle. Good luck with your future install, and if there are questions, this is the place to get them answered...there is a wealth of knowledge on this forum that will guide you though the decision making process.
Today's project...small retaining wall on the side of our property.
Plumbing (take #3), so I moved the water bond, and then figured out (I hope) a heater bypass as recommended by @ajw22, I am fighting limited space, but trying to adhere to best practices. the blue painters tape is my SWG...I think I might be at the 75% solution with this. I know there are a bunch of 90s in there...that was the one thing I am concerned about...let me know thoughts...and if there is an easier way to do this, please let me know. I know I could take 2 90s out if I lay the SWG flat by pushing the heater bypass closer to the pump...I do sort of like having that extra space (what little there is) to get to the pump and filter without having to step over plumbing, do I gain anything significant in efficiency by taking out those 2 90s (I could also go with sweeps at the top if that is a better option).