no display

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phoven

Member
Jul 12, 2019
14
Clearwater, FL
After cleaning my T-15 cell and reinstalling there was no display or lights on the panel. I have 240 volts coming into the panel, the fuse is good, the thermistor looks good (not burned or cracked) and the transformer ohms out about 2 ohms on both sets of wires. What should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance.
Paul
 
JamesW said:

Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the power points, it looks like I have a bad main board. All I can find when I search online is aqua rite, are the boards interchangeable. This is what I found. Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination Systems
The boards look identical.

Thank you for your help.

Paul
 
JamesW said:

Click to expand...
Thanks for the power points, they were very helpful but I'm still having problems and I'm getting no help at all from Hayward.
I replaced the main board because there was no voltage on pins 2 and 4 for the display board. The new main board worked for about a week or a week and a half then the salt reading began falling. I took a water sample in and they said it was 3400 ppm. I used your power points and found it had 0 amperage on the second polarity check. I ordered a second board and it checked the same and showed low salt. The following is a list of my readings.

Input voltage 140
Rectifier output voltage 25.5
Transformer output voltage 23.6
Transformer input ohms blue and white wires 2.7
Transformer input ohms grey and violet wires 3.2
Rectifier input voltage 8.2

The only one that really looks out of spec is the rectifier input voltage which should be 12 volts and would indicate a bad main board.
I just can't believe that I would have gotten two bad main boards out of the box.

As I understood the power points you have to check both polarities for volts and amps. Any help would be greatly appreciated as Hayward will not ever talk to me about the problem.

Paul
 
You previously said that the input voltage was 240?

How old is the cell?

What are all of the diagnostic readings with the switch off and what are they when you move the switch to auto?

What is the salinity as independently measured by a good salinity test like the K-1766?
 
JamesW said:
You previously said that the input voltage was 240?

How old is the cell?

What are all of the diagnostic readings with the switch off and what are they when you move the switch to auto?

What is the salinity as independently measured by a good salinity test like the K-1766?
Click to expand...
I'm sorry I meant to say 240 volts.
I'll have to find the paperwork for the cell It's about 1 or 1 1/2 years old. Pinch a Penny tested and said it was good.
The power was off when I ohmed out the transformer coil wires, and the switch was cycled from auto to off to auto when I was checking both sides of the polarity. The switch was in the on position and the cell and flow switch were plugged in for the rest of the readings.
The water was tested at Pinch a Penny.
 
What are all of the diagnostic readings with the switch off and what are they when you move the switch to auto?

What are the first seven characters of the serial number?
 

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AUTO OFF
Input voltage 239
Rectifier output voltage 26.1 30.8
Transformer output voltage 24 24
Transformer input voltage blue white 119.5 119.3
Transformer input voltage gray violet 119.5 119.3
Rectifier input voltage 24 24

GLX-CELL-15-W
G1-929026A RevC

the first readings were in auto the second in off
 
Those are the only numbers on the label of the t-15 cell

Auto
2500
89
26.5
5.56
51p
-2300
al-0
1.59
t-15

Off
2400
89
31.9
0.00
51p
-0
al-0
1.59
t-15

button 2 auto 26.5 cycle switch 31.9
button 3 auto 5.71 cycle switch 0
button 2 off 31.9 cycle switch 31.9
button 3 off 0 cycle switch 0
 
If you're sure the actual salinity, I would say that the cell is probably bad.

I would check the salinity with a K-1766 test kit to be sure.

The cell has a 1 year warranty.

Are you sure that there's no serial number on the cell?
 
JamesW said:
If you're sure the actual salinity, I would say that the cell is probably bad.

I would check the salinity with a K-1766 test kit to be sure.

The cell has a 1 year warranty.

Are you sure that there's no serial number on the cell?
Click to expand...
I found a second label on the t-cell 1E17254-402384

I have been using both power points as they are both a little different and have a few questions.
The rectifier input voltage should be 12 volts but is 24 volts, the power point says it fails if voltage is low.
The transformer output voltage is 24 volts between both yellow wires but with both wires still off the board is only 2 volts and 3 volts between each yellow wire and ground, with only one wire off the board it is 21 volts and 22 volts between each each wire and ground. The power point calls for 12 volts but is not clear if both wires should be disconnected or not.
One power point said to test both polarities of cell by running the test twice. The second test for cell amperage was zero.

Pinch a Penny did the salinity test , 3400 ppm and also tested the cell and said it tested good.

If you think I'm doing something wrong please let me know because I don't understand why my voltage readings are out of range.

Thanks for all your help,
Paul
 
The diagnostic readings indicate that the power is fine. You can check the current at the red or black double wire at the top right of the board if you want.

I would get a K-1766 salt test to verify the actual salinity.
 

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