no choice but to convert to SWG, need advice.

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With your TA you will not get pH to stay in the low to mid 7's. Your TA needs to be 60 to 80 for the pH to not rise quickly.

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
 
So my inability to keep the PH in a normal range will contribute to the CH rising?

Also I had the TA in the 80 range before when I was dumping the MA like crazy every few days and I never seemed to be able to win the fight so I became frustrated and just lowered the PH once a week.
 
Pretty close. I have a Superior 1/2hp from Amazon. Harbor Freight has them too.

The process is slow. See where you will be sending the water and how you will get the water there, with either a hose (slowest) to a backwash hose.
 
With your CH, you want to exchange the whole thing.

Once you have your in/out balanced, take one of the hoses and fill a 5 gallon bucket while timing it. Convert to GPM. That will tell you how long to run the exchange.
 
OK, thanks for all the info, I will do a full exchange when I have the time to dedicate to it in the next week or so.

is there a guide or a thread that you can reference me to in regards to what I'll have to do chemically to get things back in order or is it just a matter of getting the CYA back up, lowering the PH and holding the FC level and going from there?
 
Pretty straight forward. When using liquid chlorine raise your CYA to 50 ppm. Add FC to 5 ppm right at the start. Adjust pH as necessary. When it gets to 7.6, lower to 7.2 until your TA gets below 90. Then wait until pH gets to 7.8 and lower to 7.2. That should keep the TA down even as you add your high TA fill water due to evaporation.
 

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To kinda open this thread up again....

I am ready to do the exchange and wanted to make sure I am understanding it correctly. I put the pump in the deep end and the replacement water in the shallow end because with high hardness the water is denser? Or is it better to just look at temperature and do it that way?
 
With high calcium put the pump in the deep end and new water in the shallow end. I suspect your tap water is warmer than your pool water too.
 
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