No chlorine - appears to function

[All1son]

Hi all, I have the Hayward Goldline Aquatrol SWG. Version r 1.47 so that's an older model.

My chemistries are all on point. Salt 3300, CYA is optimal, etc etc.

The power light is on. The pump works via the SWG unit, and no other diagnostic lights are coming on. It says it's chlorinating!

Quick backstory:
My salt cell stopped working last year so I bought another one per recommendations. This one also appears to not be generating chlorine. At some point there was a storm and the outlet that feeds the generator and pump did get switched off. I wonder if something shorted in the unit at the same time...

Long story short, I believe it's my unit, not the salt cell.

My question is, has anyone here ever done deeper diagnostics like using a multimeter in the outlet going to the salt cell? What readings should I expect from those 8 holes?

Is there a fuse on the board that would be...somehow between the board and the salt cell that could make it lose power but continue to appear as though it's generating? (Like it says it's sending power but it's not making it to the salt cell)

I've done days of fiddling but am not too electrically savvy. I can call on a friend to help but am hoping to get more information first as to not waste his time.

Thanks so much for any help y'all can afford!

 

[Newdude]

Thanks so much for any help y'all can afford!

That's just it. After building the pool, all I can afford is to help people here.

My chemistries are all on point. Salt 3300, CYA is optimal, etc etc.

Run a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail, SLAM Process

If you pass then we run an overnight *gain* test.

If you produce the expected amount overnight but lose it during the day, then we look at your CYA. If you don't make what you should overnight then it's the cell/controller.

 

[proavia]

How are you testing?
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Results being "on point" usually don't tell the whole story.

Have a read thru:

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[All1son]

That's just it. After building the pool, all I can afford is to help people here.



Run a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail, SLAM Process

If you pass then we run an overnight *gain* test.

If you produce the expected amount overnight but lose it during the day, then we look at your CYA. If you don't make what you should overnight then it's the cell/controller.

No chlorine is being made. At all. Zero. Nothing to lose and nothing to gain.

 

[Newdude]

No chlorine is being made. At all. Zero. Nothing to lose and nothing to gain.

Then the CYA angle is less likely but algae is still entirely on the table. It may be consuming the FC as quickly as it's made. You need to rule it out to prove we have time to fiddle with the rest of it. Otherwise, we spend time fiddling and BOOM swamp.

 

[Mdragger88]

@All1son ,
You must eliminate the variables one by one in a controlled fashion to find the problem.
#1 - rule out algae via an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels
FC/CYA Levels
(the swcg is not in use during this test)
#2 - if algae exists its
SLAM Process time
if not move to #3
#3 - overnight chlorine gain test using swcg
#4 - proceed to troubleshooting swcg
#4a-

Basic Aqua Trol Diagnostics​

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing an problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
• Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Hi all, I have the Hayward Goldline Aquatrol SWG. Version r 1.47 so that's an older model.

My chemistries are all on point. Salt 3300, CYA is optimal, etc etc.

The power light is on. The pump works via the SWG unit, and no other diagnostic lights are coming on. It says it's chlorinating!

Fyi, the Aquatrol mainboard version r1.47 is the newest and is built like a tank.
How are you testing the actual salt level?

Quick backstory:
My salt cell stopped working last year so I bought another one per recommendations. This one also appears to not be generating chlorine. At some point there was a storm and the outlet that feeds the generator and pump did get switched off. I wonder if something shorted in the unit at the same time...

Are you running on a generic T5-cell or OEM? Please post the diagnostic readings and we go from there.

 

[Bperry]

My chemistries are all on point. Salt 3300, CYA is optimal, etc etc.

I’ll be honest, lots of people say they have all chemistry optimal but TFP has specific requirements to be considered optimal and when the actual results are shared we nearly always discover things are not optimal. So theres some understandable skepticism there.

If chlorine isnt detectable in the water, you either have an algae bloom happening consuming it or the device isn’t making any chlorine.

To figure out which one it is, add ppm of liquid chlorine and see if the test result is 5ppm. If chlorine still doesnt show, you have an algae party brewing and should start the SLAM process now while you debug the SWG.

 

[All1son]

Ok. I have added liquid chlorine but didn't retest. I have a 17,000 gallon pool. The pool store guy said to add half a gallon previously.

Your reply didn't specify how many ppm.

Basically you're saying I should pour in liquid chlorine and then wait how long before testing it to see if it's 5 ppm?

I have been told 2-4 is optimal for the pool. Why are you suggesting 5ppm?

 

[All1son]

Fyi, the Aquatrol mainboard version r1.47 is the newest and is built like a tank.
How are you testing the actual salt level?


Are you running on a generic T5-cell or OEM? Please post the diagnostic readings and we go from there.

It is the glx-cell 5, which is the appropriate cell by Hayward.

I'm not home in this moment. So I can't post the diagnostic numbers. But I am asking if anyone knows how to check the unit or what I should do there. This is what I'm looking at now.

I'm going to go home and do a test for algae blooms I guess but I truly think it's the unit. Id appreciate insights to that most.

I can post the numbers later after 8pm but again, I'm really fairly certain it's the module, not the chemistry or the cell.

@All1son ,
You must eliminate the variables one by one in a controlled fashion to find the problem.
#1 - rule out algae via an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels
FC/CYA Levels
(the swcg is not in use during this test)
#2 - if algae exists its
SLAM Process time
if not move to #3
#3 - overnight chlorine gain test using swcg
#4 - proceed to troubleshooting swcg
#4a-

Basic Aqua Trol Diagnostics​

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing an problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
• Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

I didn't know about the algae bloom so I guess that's the next first thing to do. Thank you!

Salinity is 3300. I've turned that darn thing on and off and on and off so many times. It's 3300. I had it brought to the pool store prior to adding more salt (was at 2800 and was told to add 2 more bags as it was on the lower side of the spectrum)

I just bought the new cell. It's glx-cell 5 by Hayward. I can look at the cell numbers tonight. What do they have to do with it?

 

[Bperry]

Basically you're saying I should pour in liquid chlorine and then wait how long before testing it to see if it's 5 ppm?

10-ish minutes with the pump running.

I have been told 2-4 is optimal for the pool. Why are you suggesting 5ppm?

2-4 being optimal is not really true. Heres the article on why. The “FC” portion explains the details of optimal chlorine being dependant on how much CYA is in the water.

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

I just bought the new cell. It's glx-cell 5 by Hayward. I can look at the cell numbers tonight. What do they have to do with it?

It’s included in the blanket diagnostic question to help determine if the cell may be depleted by knowing its age from the serial number - since yours is brand new that is unlikely.
But we would still like to know the control box serial number along with all the other information listed.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

It is the glx-cell 5, which is the appropriate cell by Hayward.

I'm not home in this moment. So I can't post the diagnostic numbers. But I am asking if anyone knows how to check the unit or what I should do there. This is what I'm looking at now.

First off, I am not into managing the water chemistry in your pool. Therefore, I'll leave that to the experts.
You said that the replacement cell appears to not be generating chlorine! We can help you better by posting the diagnostics readings from your Aquatrol system. If the actual salt level in your pool is within the recommended range but the replacement cell is under-performing then call in for a warranty, if any was offered.

Here's a yt video on how to run the diagnostics on an Aquatrol system. I believe the author is a known TFP member and the readings suggested he upgraded to a T-15 cell.
In your case, set the Desired Output to 100%.

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.