*newbie* cloudy/green water

[PoolD]

Things we're going great for weeks then all of a sudden about 2 days ago water started turning cloudy, now today it started turning green

I read about SLAM in pool school but am still a little confused as to what I still need to do.

I tested water last night:
TA 100
OTO 0.5
PH 7.4
TH 120
CYA 30

I replaced the filter and scrubbed the bottom and sides of the pool and added bleach to bring up the OTO. Ran the filter pump all night.

I tested again this morning:
TA 90
OTO 3
PH 7.4
TH 130
CYA

Pool looks like this:

Now that the levels are up, do I add the HTH shock stuff that I bought from the pool store? Also, is it ok to dilute in a bucket of water before I drop in? I got a box of goodies before I discovered this site so I'd like to use them if possible. I plan to clean filter 2x a day and vacuum today.

Any help is much appreciated. This is my first pool and I just don't know what I'm doing. Green water has set me into panic mode!

 

[bsedgal]

You'll have a lot to read up with this site just as I did (new pool owner this winter). Throw out the OTO test kit and get a quality DPD type, like the TF-100.
Read up on what it means to SLAM. You can start by buying many gallons of ordinary bleach and get your free chlorine level up to 12 and keep it there (assuming CYA is really 30 - see chart https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock). After you've read more about trouble free pool care let us know if you have any more questions.

 

[Nectarologist]

Hi. Yes you can dilute into a bucket. I wouldn't worry about vacuuming unless there is visible debris on the floor. As you have done, continue to run the pump so it keeps filtering. Test the chlorine level this evening and then again in the morning and add as needed (then in the afternoon tomorrow, etc.). I would raise it higher than the 3 you have it at now. The HTH will do that. I'd go to between 6-8 myself. Once you use up the HTH I'd go with regular concentrated bleach (8.25%). You could also buy 12.5% liquid chlorine from a pool store but it's the same exact thing as bleach just stronger so you have 50% less bottles to recycle and it's a lot more money (60% more in my neck of the woods). Others will give feedback, I'm no expert so trust them. I personally don't go as high as the slam says to. I opened to a black pool this year and kept the level high but not slam high and it cleared up fine. It's not like you have debris sitting on the floor like some neglected pools to (leaves, branches, acorns, etc.).

 

[Pool Amateur]

Hi PoolD and welcome to TFP,
We here at TFP take a scientific approach to managing a pool and usually all the chemicals you need to buy to manage the pool are at the supermarket, K-mart, Wallmart or similar store and much cheaper than the pool store. you will here a lot advice to stay out of pool stores because of the terrible advice they give and the inaccuracy of the their testing systems or operators performing the tests. I had a real hard time believing this at 1st so I took a sample of the same water to 3 different stores and came up with 3 different results. It is therefore very important you get a proper kit that can accurately test the water for you and the kit that does this for the best bang for your buck is the TF-100 sold by TFTestkit.com. They are somewhat affiliated with the operators of this site but I am not. They are out of NC and I usually get supplies from then in 2 days but I am a little closer, so I am guessing 3 days for you even though it will say seven. The kit costs about $70 if you spend $100 shipping is free I would also highly recommend the XL option and the speedstir. if you join as a supporter of this site you get a 10% discount but since you are new may not want to do that until you get results and see how much you save. This kit will pay for itself several times over. Until you get a proper kit we will be treading water and shooting in the dark. And while you may get good results, you may not or may damage your pool. The key here is knowledge. The HTH shock you bought is Cal-Hypo since you have a vinyl liner pool you can use it for a little bit but is more expensive, I personally would take it back and get liquid chlorine (bleach) or see if you can get some 12.5% in 5 gal jugs at a lesser cost. I pay $12.50 for 5 gals of 12.5 liquid chlorine. Reading through "Pool School " will be your best thing you can do as it will start to educate you on terms and what really happens in your pool.

 

[PoolD]

Thanks everyone! The TF-100 is on my list to buy - just giving my pocketbook a break since I spent so much on the install. I've been using 8.25% bleach for my chlorine and fully intend to go with the home product approach. I just wanted to use what I initially bought. I've done a lot of reading in pool school and this site but I am still a little confused with this SLAM.

So should I add the HTH shock (I have 2 packages in my box of goodies - still need to figure out how much to put in!) until the OTO gets to 12 as suggested in pool school? Or just keep adding the 8.25% bleach to achieve this? If adding bleach do I add all at once or over a period of time?Also, do I keep scrubbing? I barely have any debris at the bottom so I'll avoid vacuuming. I plan to keep the filter running 24/7 as suggested.

 

[Pool Amateur]

If I remember correctly the OTO only goes to 5ppm for FC, so you really can't start SLAM until you have some way of measuring FC at higher levels. What kit are you using for a test kit, maybe only need to get a FAS/DPD chlorine & cc test kit for $30. Also 7.2 is ideal for SLAM but 7.4 doable.

 

[Mr Bruce]

You cannot test FC accurately without a FAS-DPD test, included in the TF-100. If you cannot test FC accurately you can't SLAM.

I would take that HTH shock back to the store and put the refund toward the test kit.

 

[PoolD]

Your right pool amateur, my HTH 6-way only goes to 5. Ordering the TF-100 may take up to 7 days. Any suggestions until then? I'm assuming that fas/dpd test can be bought at the pool store? I just hate wasting money on that test only to get the TF-100 in a few days.

 

[Demegrad9]

It looks like HTH shock is 47% Cal-Hypo. If you take it back, it'll probably not save much money. If you use it, it will only increase CH about 18ppm (i.e. a very small amount) and raise free chlorine by 26ppm. I'm assuming each bag is 1 lb.

I'd go ahead and use it to keep FC up to 12ppm until your better setup with a proper test kit and bleach.

 

[AftonJeeper]

From what I understand it is rare to find the FAS/DPD test in a store. Since your 6 way goes to 4 you can use pool math to set you goal at 12. For you size pool that is just 1 quart and 2 cups of 8.25% bleach. Every time it drops below 5 bring it back up to 12. It will take longer to clear it this way but I would guess within a few days you should start seeing an improvement.

 

[Pool Amateur]

So should I add the HTH shock (I have 2 packages in my box of goodies - still need to figure out how much to put in!)

You can add HTH since you have a vinyl liner, it will increase CH, unless CH is over 350 it should not be a problem. I like mixing in bucket 1st. If you through it in and don't brush a concentrated area of chlorine could burn the liner. also when pouring it in our it in slowly over the return (with pump on) to mix it throughout the pool.

You can use "pool math" to determine how much to add, the problem is I do not think you will be able to read when it is over 5 ppm with OTO.

I am still a little confused with this SLAM.

Really not difficult once you get the hang of it. If your CYA= 30 ppm then FC=12. SO you bring the FC level to 12 PPM and check it frequently, if it goes below 12 you add (using pool math to determine how much to add) to bring it back to 12. you keep doing this until you pass the 3 criteria that tells you that you passed the SLAM it usually takes several days for a pool that looks like yours, but could go longer.

 

[Demegrad9]

I haven't seen a FAS-DPD test system at any pool stores near me... If you already have a 10mL test cylinder, all you need rapidly is R-0870 powder and R-0871 if you can find those.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Ordering the TF-100 may take up to 7 days

I usually get it in 2 days I think you can get it in 3 days, even though they say 7, can always put a rush on it just costs more. I am not sure you can get the FAS/DPD test in a store but if you can, I would do that. If you stay with TFP you will realize that the TF-100 is best bang for buck even though you may be able to piece a similar kit together that will give reliable results but I read about many people who decide to get the TF-100 after they had Taylor 2006 kits because with the sales and discounts given on the TF-100 refills it is cheaper, but do what you can afford, again it is the knowlege that is the real power.

Every time it drops below 5 bring it back up to 12. It will take longer to clear it this way but I would guess within a few days you should start seeing an improvement.

I like Alftonjeepers idea until you are able to measure FC.

 

[PoolD]

You are all so helpful! Thank you so much for responding to my post. I feel much better on what I need to do now.

I'm going the 8.25% bleach route. I have the pool math app and set my goal to 12. I feel more comfortable using the bleach versus the shock. Will check stats 2x a day and keep the filter running 24/7. Hopefully my TF-100 will arrive soon.

Fingers crossed!??

 

[RonsPlc]

Yes, you want to keep brushing... Algae will attach itself to any surface it can, and form a protective layer over itself to try to prevent the chlorine from getting through. Brushing scratches the layer, and lets the chlorine do its job. (We are trying to kill it, not form cultures of it after all.)

I have had a pool for the past 12 years, and every year, I would go through a cycle... put fresh water in at the beginning of the year... keep it clear with pool store tabs/shock ph balancers... etc for about 2 months (at best)... Then it would start turning cloudy... then GREEN!... Buy more magic potions from pool store... That did little other than to lighten my wallet. I would end up emptying the pool, and starting over at least once mid season. Rinse, and repeat! year after year! I finally thought, "I must be missing something" which lead me to this site. These people lead me through getting my pool from a GREEN SWAMP to CLEANER than it has ever been! And I spend a WHOLE lot LESS than I ever though was possible to maintain it. As a result, I donate to this site yearly to help keep it helping others. (After all, I would have spent a LOT more wasting my time/MONEY at the pool store for LESS that perfect water!)

The avatar I have under my name (picture) is what my pool looked like when I took the winter cover off of it this spring. It was taken in May. My water is actually cleaner now, and all I have added is bleach, and a bit of acid to keep my Ph in check.

In my signature below are some links to some reading material for you.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Also if it is at or below slam level and you can see the bottom it is safe to swim.

 

[PoolD]

So my test won't arrive til probably Thursday

In the meantime, I have (blindly without testing)done the following...

Fri/Sat: (filter on 24/7)
- added 32oz of bleach in the morning, brushed and vacuumed, cleaned filter
- added 56oz of bleach at night, brushed and vacuumed, cleaned filter

Sun:
- added 32oz of bleach in the morning, brushed and vacuumed, clean filter
- added 32 oz of bleach midday, brushed and vacuumed, clean filter
- added 56oz of bleach at night, brushed vacuumed, clean filter

I think I see minor improvement - wishful thinking?? I can see that the greenish tint is kind of going away, however it seems cloudier to me. What do you think? I can see the bottom when standing next to the pool, not in the pic tho. The pic is from a higher angle.

We're getting rain all day today, so probably only adding bleach 3x today.

 

[Pool Amateur]

It is looking bluer from picture but light conditions are difficult to tell sometimes, if you take pic at top of ladder shooting down onto ladder steps it may be easier to tell the visibility (with the ladder acting as a depth gauge). Your pool is really not that bad (compared to the 2 swamps I cleaned up) once you have the kit you should be able clear it up pretty fast, providing you have no filter problems and there is nothing I see yet to suggest any filter problems.

I have (blindly without testing)done the following

Rather than adding blindly, I like AftonJeeper's idea of;

Since your 6 way goes to 4 you can use pool math to set you goal at 12. For you size pool that is just 1 quart and 2 cups of 8.25% bleach. Every time it drops below 5 bring it back up to 12.

especially if I were to swim in it. This way you are not adding blindly.

Did you get a tracking for the Thurs delivery date? I am curious to see how many days it takes. I usually get my packages from them in 2 days. but as I said before I do live a little closer.

 

[PoolD]

With that much bleach is it ok to swim in? I'm guessing on the Thursday delivery date. It was sent usps today.

I've tested OTO every day and it's bright yellow - definitely higher than the 5 yellow on the tester which is why I've been dropping in only about 32 oz bleach at a time.

 

[Pool Amateur]

With that much bleach is it ok to swim in? I've tested OTO every day and it's bright yellow - definitely higher than the 5 yellow on the tester which is why I've been dropping in only about 32 oz bleach at a time.

Here is the problem you do not know how much FC you have til the kit comes and you can test it. If you follow AftonJeeper's idea and let it come down to 4 ppm, then use pool math to take it up to 12 ppm, you then are pretty sure it is at 12 or less, especially if it has been a few hours since the addition. It is safe because at or below SLAM/Shock level is safe to swim as long as you can see the bottom, and you can see the bottom.