CYA is like "sunscreen" for you FC. You need at least 30. Some people shoot for 40 like me here in Florida.
You can buy it at walmart.
Kim
You can buy it at walmart.
Kim
Newbie and nervous - trying TFPC
- Thread starter colosnyders
- Start date
No problem. This will help a lot. Most additions show up on tests right away, but CYA dissolves slowly and even then doesn't really show up fully for a week. So at this point, once you have the stabilizer in the sock (5.5 pounds, right?), you should assume your pool has 30 ppm CYA in it for SLAMming. So you now target 12 ppm of chlorine for your slam.
If you have little FC in the pool, it's a good time to get a pH reading. If you already added the chlorine again, no big deal.
If you have little FC in the pool, it's a good time to get a pH reading. If you already added the chlorine again, no big deal.
the pool is 21,000 gals couldn't be any cya so to get it to 30 requires 6.25 lbs Once you put it in consider it to be 30ppm test it again in a week to see for sure then add the rest to get to 40-50 once your slam is completed
Woot! Woot! Added CYA and my chlorine held at 12 and 0 CC!!!
. thank you! Pool still milky but at least my chlorine is holding!!!!!! Try again in about an hour
:compress:8/8 5:45p. 11 FC
Woot! Woot! Added CYA and my chlorine held at 12 and 0 CC!!!
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Can you post a photo of the water ?? Standing at the center of the stairs shooting down into the water works best as the stairs can be used as a reference for distance and clairity.
When you test for OCLT you need to make sure the SWG is OFF.
Once the SLAM is completed and it's been a week since your last stabilizer addition you'll still want to bring that CYA level up to 60 or 70. Before you raise it you just want to make sure you have completed the SLAM and you've killed everything. If you think you'll need to backwash sooner than a week it's best to add the stabilizer and hang the sock in front of a return jet rather than in the skimmer. That way more goes into the pool and less is sitting in the filter which would get flushed out during a backwash.
From Pool School : Cyanuric acid, often called stabilizer or conditioner, both protects FC from sunlight and lowers the effective strength of the FC (by holding some of the FC in reserve). The higher your CYA level, the more FC you need to use to get the same effect. It is important to know your CYA level so you can figure out what FC level to aim for. If you don't have a SWG or problems from extremely high amounts of sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 30 and 50. If you have a SWG or very high levels of direct sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 70 and 80.
You increase CYA by adding cyanuric acid, often sold as stabilizer or conditioner. CYA is available as a solid and as a liquid. The liquid costs a lot more, and generally isn't worth the extra expense. Solid stabilizer can take up to a week to fully register on the test, so don't retest your CYA level for a week after adding some. Solid stabilizer is best added by placing it in a sock in the skimmer basket. The pump should be run for 24 hours after adding solid stabilizer and you should avoid backwashing/cleaning the filter for a week.
When you test for OCLT you need to make sure the SWG is OFF.
Once the SLAM is completed and it's been a week since your last stabilizer addition you'll still want to bring that CYA level up to 60 or 70. Before you raise it you just want to make sure you have completed the SLAM and you've killed everything. If you think you'll need to backwash sooner than a week it's best to add the stabilizer and hang the sock in front of a return jet rather than in the skimmer. That way more goes into the pool and less is sitting in the filter which would get flushed out during a backwash.
From Pool School : Cyanuric acid, often called stabilizer or conditioner, both protects FC from sunlight and lowers the effective strength of the FC (by holding some of the FC in reserve). The higher your CYA level, the more FC you need to use to get the same effect. It is important to know your CYA level so you can figure out what FC level to aim for. If you don't have a SWG or problems from extremely high amounts of sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 30 and 50. If you have a SWG or very high levels of direct sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 70 and 80.
You increase CYA by adding cyanuric acid, often sold as stabilizer or conditioner. CYA is available as a solid and as a liquid. The liquid costs a lot more, and generally isn't worth the extra expense. Solid stabilizer can take up to a week to fully register on the test, so don't retest your CYA level for a week after adding some. Solid stabilizer is best added by placing it in a sock in the skimmer basket. The pump should be run for 24 hours after adding solid stabilizer and you should avoid backwashing/cleaning the filter for a week.
I will take the pic in the morning. I would call the color a milky light blue. I have not turned on the SWG because I had read that the water chemistry needs to be balanced first. I cleaned the filter right before I started this so I should be good? I added the stabilizer this afternoon and it seemed to have a quick effect as it finally held chlorine. I REALLY appreciate all the feedback! I have been worried and facing a lot of pressure to "just go to the pool store". P.s. 7:45p test FC=12
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I know it will not work for him, but you are at the good pool store
If you have enough salt in the water you should be able to use the SWG to offset some of the bleach so you're not buying as much.
If you have enough salt in the water you should be able to use the SWG to offset some of the bleach so you're not buying as much.
Here's the pic. It looks like a slight improvement from yesterday but not much. FC held at 12 overnight and CC is still 0. Just need water to clear up now. Probably need to have my water tested for salt because I haven't added any yet. Then I can turn on my SWG. Any thoughts on the milky stuff?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Looks like it's just filter time and you need to be patient. It's a big improvement in color !!
It is safe to swim at the SLAM level
It is safe to swim at the SLAM level
If you take the same picture every day and compare them, you'll really be able to see your filter working. It may take a few days or even a week to be totally clear. Glad to see it's working.
Regarding salt, you will likely need to add a lot to reach recommended levels for your SWG, if you haven't already. PoolMath can help.
Regarding salt, you will likely need to add a lot to reach recommended levels for your SWG, if you haven't already. PoolMath can help.
Yes, you really need to get a good starting salt number so you don't overshoot like I did. Just know that pool stores don't do an accurate salt check either. If you want to go the strip route, use the aquachek seem to be the favorite, but My Taylor k-1766 is probably the best for accuracy though a bit more expensive.
I concur with the Taylor K-1766 being accurate. If there is a Home Depot nearby you can buy pool salt there.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you haven't add any salt to it you'll likely need about 500 lbs to hit a 3000ppm salt level in a 21K pool. You can also use water softener salt you just want to make sure it's pure salt with nothing added.
Cut and paste:
Goldline Controls says that solar salt or salt pellets that are 99.5% pure salt and that do not contain additives such as iron removers (red out) or water softener cleaners are fine. You don't want potasium chloride. You want sodium chloride.
Pellets will take the longest to dissolve but also seem to have a higher purity. Solar salt is usually largish crystals and will dissolve a lot faster. Morten pool salt is much smaller crystals but similar to their solar. It dissolves a bit faster than their solar salt.
Diamond crystal pool salt is the smallest crystals that I have seen (almost like table salt) but also the most expensive. It dissolves very fast.
With any of them brushing will help them dissolve.
I have found pool salt at sevaral hardware stores in my area and at 2 different grocery store chains (Winn Dixie and Publix). The grocery stores have been the cheapest price and the salt is usually with the water softener salt.
I have used all of the above in my pool and I look for the cheapest price since they are all sodium chloride! Interesting thing....many of the pool stores in my area that I hve been to don't carry pool salt but they do carry either Mineral Springs (Bioguard) or Salt Water Magic (NaturalChemisty)---both of which are very pricey and IMHO, totally unnecessary!
Cut and paste:
Goldline Controls says that solar salt or salt pellets that are 99.5% pure salt and that do not contain additives such as iron removers (red out) or water softener cleaners are fine. You don't want potasium chloride. You want sodium chloride.
Pellets will take the longest to dissolve but also seem to have a higher purity. Solar salt is usually largish crystals and will dissolve a lot faster. Morten pool salt is much smaller crystals but similar to their solar. It dissolves a bit faster than their solar salt.
Diamond crystal pool salt is the smallest crystals that I have seen (almost like table salt) but also the most expensive. It dissolves very fast.
With any of them brushing will help them dissolve.
I have found pool salt at sevaral hardware stores in my area and at 2 different grocery store chains (Winn Dixie and Publix). The grocery stores have been the cheapest price and the salt is usually with the water softener salt.
I have used all of the above in my pool and I look for the cheapest price since they are all sodium chloride! Interesting thing....many of the pool stores in my area that I hve been to don't carry pool salt but they do carry either Mineral Springs (Bioguard) or Salt Water Magic (NaturalChemisty)---both of which are very pricey and IMHO, totally unnecessary!
Sorry I haven't updated... Yesterday we finally had a beautiful day here and I swam in my pool for the first time. Spent 3.5 hours in there. Lots of swimmers and lots of sun and I had to add some chlorine last night (dropped from 12 to 7). Chlorine still holding at night. Today the weather was good for about a half a day and I vacuumed again even though I couldn't really see but I do think that it got better. This afternoon we had torrential rain. My pool still has dirt around it because my concrete guy couldn't come out. Was supposed to pour tomorrow but the rain ended that. Needless to say that I am getting a lot of dirt in my pool. Just checked the FC after the rain (still lightly raining) and it dropped 2. I will let you know when we are finally clear and I can check PH and get the SWG going.
Thanks again for everything!!!!! I am a believer!
Thanks again for everything!!!!! I am a believer!
Great news. Regarding the dirt, what kind of vacuum setup do you have? My manual vacuum came with an attachment that lets it hook up over the skimmer basket, so the basket can catch leaves. I bought some "skimmer socks", which are nylon filters that go over the basket to catch small particles, and I use that when I'm vacuuming. Earlier in the summer I had a tree taken down next to the pool, and I vacuumed about a gallon of sawdust into the skimmer sock. The sock saved me from sending all that through my pump or having to vacuum to waste and losing a few thousand gallons of water.