New Vinyl Liner pool start up

[KfenTx]

Hello hello!
We're not yet finished with construction of our vinyl liner pool but I'm trying to be a couple steps ahead. I've ordered the TF-Pro *Salt with SmartStir-for pools with SWG already and am wondering about salt. The pool is 20x44, 8ft deep so I calculate we'll need nearly 1000lbs of salt to start.

I see our local Home Depot has Diamond Crystal Splash Ready Pool salt which is described as being 99.3% pure. But they also have Diamond Crystal Bright and Soft Water Softener Salt which is 99.8% pure (and cheaper). I've read that either is fine but wanted to see what you all recommend.

Also, any reason to get a hose filter for filling the pool? Should I test our tap water first?

Thanks!!

 

[Texas Splash]

Either salt will work. I like the solar salt myself as it's generally quite pure and smaller crystals easier to dissolve. but either will work. Just be sure to brush it around periodically. If you are on a well or prone to iron in the water, then a pre-filter at the hose might be beneficial. Otherwise no need. Remember new water has no stabilizer (CYA) in it, so you'll need to add some stabilizer via the sock-soaking method on day one. You'll also want to have some liquid chlorine handy to increase the FC on day one to about 3 ppm and continue manual dosing until you are sure the SWG is producing FC as required. Use the PoolMath APP for all your dosing amounts. Good luck with the finishing touches and enjoy your pool.

 

[Texas Splash]

You can test your tap water if you just want a general idea of what's going in the pool, but it's the filled pool that will give you the results you really need. Be sure to let the water mix for about 30 minutes before grabbing your first test sample.

 

[KfenTx]

You can test your tap water if you just want a general idea of what's going in the pool, but it's the filled pool that will give you the results you really need. Be sure to let the water mix for about 30 minutes before grabbing your first test sample.

Either salt will work. I like the solar salt myself as it's generally quite pure and smaller crystals easier to dissolve. but either will work. Just be sure to brush it around periodically. If you are on a well or prone to iron in the water, then a pre-filter at the hose might be beneficial. Otherwise no need. Remember new water has no stabilizer (CYA) in it, so you'll need to add some stabilizer via the sock-soaking method on day one. You'll also want to have some liquid chlorine handy to increase the FC on day one to about 3 ppm and continue manual dosing until you are sure the SWG is producing FC as required. Use the PoolMath APP for all your dosing amounts. Good luck with the finishing touches and enjoy your pool.

Thank you for your replies! We're on city water so I think we should be ok.

Do we fill the pool, add salt and then test? I do already have the PoolMath app installed

Any brand/store suggestions for the CYA and liquid chlorine. Pool will be about 37,000 gallons, how much of each should I have on hand?

 

[Texas Splash]

Since new water has no stabilizer or salt in it, you can plan on going from zero to whatever CYA/salt goal you wish. To be safe, I would probably only add enough stabilizer/conditioner to get to a CYA of 60 just so you don't over-shoot on this one. You can always add a little more later. Same for the salt. Keep a couple bags on reserve. You can get granule stabilizer from many places such as Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's, Amazon, and the local pool store. Stabilizer is the granule stuff while conditioner is the "liquid gold" that costs more, but they both increase CYA.

Liquid chlorine might be found at your local Walmart (Pool Essentials) or Home Depot just to name a couple. Those are usually 10% strength. But check around for stores in your local area. In a pinch, you can use REGULAR/PLAIN laundry bleach (same stuff), it's just a lower strength at about 8.25% so you'll need more. If you get the liquid chlorine at 10% strength, one gallon is about 2.5 ppm of FC in your pool, so I would get about about 4-5 gallons to get you through the first few days just in case you have issues with your SWG.

 

[woodyp]

And let that pump run 24 hour straight at least to help dissolve that salt.

 

[KfenTx]

And let that pump run 24 hour straight at least to help dissolve that salt.

I was wondering about that too - if there's a "good" way to get it dissolved well/quickly. My understanding is that I do NOT want it sitting on the liner for extended periods of time. I guess dumping in near the returns, leaving the pump run and brushing it around?

 

[Texas Splash]

I guess dumping in near the returns, leaving the pump run and brushing it around?

That will work. Once you dump the salt, it should dissolve in about 20 minutes or so. During that time, it's a good idea to sweep it around periodically just so it's not sitting in one spot. But once it's all dissolved, it takes a bit of time for the sodium to fully acclimate into the water which is why you may want to leave the SWG off until that time has based for the cell to recognize the salt properly.

 

[Homebrewale]

I don't know if it's an option where you live but my town waived the sewage portion of my water bill for the water used to fill my pool after it was constructed. My water bill has two parts - water used and the sewage fee which is based on the assumption 100% of water used is going down the drain. All I had to do was provide a letter from the pool builder on the volume of the pool.

 

[KfenTx]

I don't know if it's an option where you live but my town waived the sewage portion of my water bill for the water used to fill my pool after it was constructed. My water bill has two parts - water used and the sewage fee which is based on the assumption 100% of water used is going down the drain. All I had to do was provide a letter from the pool builder on the volume of the pool.

Interesting! We have city water but are on septic so that won't apply for us but that's very cool!

 

[KfenTx]

Reviving this thread because i'm choosing to be optimistic that our sub actually finishes the pool bottom tomorrow and we can hang the liner Friday evening.

~37k gallon with the TCELL940 (yes, I know it's small but it's what we've got), 2.7HP variable speed pump and autocover. Central Texas 100+ days for the foreseeable future.

Tap water is:
FC 2.0
TA 230 (yay hard water :| )
CH 350
CYA 0 (obvs)
salt 200
pH wasn't measured at the time


Targets I have setup in PoolMath:
FC 1-3
TA 50-90
CH 0-650
CYA 60-90
Salt 3200

I have purchased:
25 bags of solar water softener salt (PoolMath says 24 bags)
6 gallons of muriatic acid
3 gallons of Pool Essentials liquid chlorine (10%)
3 gallons of Natural Chemistry - Instant Pool Water Conditioner (super didn't want to deal with 24lbs of granules so I went liquid for the start up)


Looking for input on this plan.
1. Check pH
2. Add salt
3. Add muriatic acid
4. add conditioner
5. add LC
6. Have a beer
7. Test ALL THE THINGS

All with the pump running 24/7 at 100%. I know not to add the chlorine and MA at the same time. For the rest it's ok to combine or just wait 15 minutes between each? (like I can add MA while the salt is still dissolving? I assume so)

Turn on SWG after all the salt is dissolved, Day 2 or when?
Also, recommendations on pump and salt cell schedule/run %?

 

[Mr Bruce]

When you test the TA of your pool water, wipe the bottle tip with a wet paper towel between every drop.

If I found your SWCG online correctly, it looks like you might need to run it 24/7 on 100%.

 

[Texas Splash]

Why is beer so far down on the list? Your list looks good. You already know the hazards of mixing acid and chlorine. The rest is fine. Don't obsess over the TA, it will fall in due time by controlling the pH, or we can help you more with that later. Definitely watch the FC level for the first 24-48 hours closely. It will try to fall quickly until the conditioner gets mixed well (which should be relatively fast). You know the salt needs 24 hrs to mix with the alter before turning on the SWG, but even at that you may need chlorine to supplement the SWG until you get the bugs worked out (output & pump run time).

 

[jeffchap]

Wait to add MA until you get a valid pH test. It may not be needed depending upon your fill water. But it will come in handy at some point. SWGs tend to cause pH to slowly climb. I add a gallon every 3-4 weeks.

 

[duraleigh]

Pat is correct - beer should be further up the list!

Just kidding! Get your chemistry right first and then change "beer" to "several beers"

As jeff says, don't be in a rush on acid. I think your pH will be in a good mid-range. You can allow the TA to come down slowly on it's own or force it lower.......read how to do that in Pool School

 

[Orion7319]

~37k gallon with the TCELL940 (yes, I know it's small but it's what we've got),

I have the TCELL940. It makes the same amount of chlorine as the T-15 which is the largest that Hayward makes. In your setup on the aqua rite you will have to select T-15. You will also have to select T-15 in the pool math app as your salt cell in order to calculate percentages and run times. The only difference is that it has a longer life span then the T-15.

 

[KfenTx]

I have the TCELL940. It makes the same amount of chlorine as the T-15 which is the largest that Hayward makes. In your setup on the aqua rite you will have to select T-15 and in the pool math app use T-15 as your salt cell. The only difference is that it has a longer life span then the T-15.

I did see that in the instructions. What percent do you run yours at? My pools a bit bigger but I'd like an idea.

 

[KfenTx]

Gosh, thanks everybody!! I tentatively put beer so far down the list because I might get eager and star adding things at 5am the day it's full. hahah I'll adjust as necessary.

I'll definitely get a good pH reading very first thing and probably retest everything to be honest. I took those tap water readings 1.5-2 months ago so I should make sure they're still accurate.

I'll hold off on the MA until y'all tell me to use it

 

[Orion7319]

I did see that in the instructions. What percent do you run yours at? My pools a bit bigger but I'd like an idea.

Well, my pool is around 20k gallons. I have a variable speed pump and so I can run it on low speeds 24 hours a day. I run it high enough during the day to help skim the pool. At night I set the speed to 400rpm above the lowest setting where the salt water generator still works by activating the flow switch. I run the pump and the salt water generator 24/7. Depending on the month and how hot the water is will determine how much you need to run it as you loose more chlorine as the water warms up and the sun gets higher in the sky. Right now my pool is around 80 degrees and I’m running my cell at 28% 24/7 which makes 2.5ppm in my pool a day. Basically you run just a bit more then what your loosing a day. Running it 24/7 keeps up a buffer for when it rains, you have a lot of bathers ect… it just works so much better and easier then not running it all the time. The VSP pumps are designed to run all the time. My highest speed I run only uses just under 300watts. My low speed uses 190 watts. Full open it uses 1750 watts.

 

[KfenTx]

Well, my pool is around 20k gallons. I have a variable speed pump and so I can run it on low speeds 24 hours a day. I run it high enough during the day to help skim the pool. At night I set the speed to 400rpm above the lowest setting where the salt water generator still works by activating the flow switch. I run the pump and the salt water generator 24/7. Depending on the month and how hot the water is will determine how much you need to run it as you loose more chlorine as the water warms up and the sun gets higher in the sky. Right now my pool is around 80 degrees and I’m running my cell at 28% 24/7 which makes 2.5ppm in my pool a day. Basically you run just a bit more then what your loosing a day. Running it 24/7 keeps up a buffer for when it rains, you have a lot of bathers ect… it just works so much better and easier then not running it all the time. The VSP pumps are designed to run all the time. My highest speed I run only uses just under 300watts. My low speed uses 190 watts. Full open it uses 1750 watts.

This is great, thank you. Yes, I figured both would be "on" all the time but I didn't know at what capacity. So, maybe with an autocover I don't have to run it at 100% with the pump on full blast 24/7