Personally, since you have a DE filter, I would use recirculate to kill everything, once the green hue is gone (with SLAM Process) and you can monitor the filter, then I would switch to filter to get clear water =)
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Personally, since you have a DE filter, I would use recirculate to kill everything, once the green hue is gone (with SLAM Process) and you can monitor the filter, then I would switch to filter to get clear water =)
I got ammonia test strips at the pet store ,and it reads 6 ppm. Although I won’t have my reagents until Thursday according to USPS tracking , can I use my test kit and try to get see if I can get rid of the ammonia?
DeanP66
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So, that means that you'll have to add about 60 PPM of liquid chlorine to neutralize that ammonia. Dose 10 PPM at a time by adding 274 oz of 10% liquid chlorine and check it every 30 minutes. Top it back up to 10 PPM, rinse and repeat until your FC starts holding. Then you'll be ready to SLAM your pool once your test kit arrives.
So, remind me which chlorine test do you currently have. Is it the DPD test that turns red? I think that one measures up to 10 FC. If so, you should be able to accurately dose and test your FC to 10 no problem.
So, remind me which chlorine test do you currently have. Is it the DPD test that turns red? I think that one measures up to 10 FC. If so, you should be able to accurately dose and test your FC to 10 no problem.
Thanks , I am anxious to do something!!
I have the Taylor K 2005C ... yes turns red
I have the Taylor K 2005C ... yes turns red
DeanP66
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Bombs away then!! Remember, don't add any additional stabilizer (CYA) until all the ammonia is gone.
Yes , thanks for the reminder , I have been reading, buying lots of bleach at Ace , and ordered some stabilizer.
I will start this tommorrow, and report!
I will start this tommorrow, and report!
DeanP66
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So, it looks like that K2005 chlorine test only goes to 5, but you can still make it work. Use pool math to dose to FC 10 and check every 30 minutes with K2005 DPD chlorine test. It will undoubtedly be under 5 when you test if there is still ammonia in your pool so it should still work.
DeanP66
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I think the 10 is for br (bromine) if I'm not mistaken. I looked at a couple of youtube videos and I though that was what I saw. If your comparator block shows something different, I'd love to see a picture. I'm not at all familiar with the K2005 kit.
Yeah the 2 levels on the yellow chlorine drop test are for DIFFERENT chemicals
(Chlorine for pool, Bromine for SPA (don't add Bromine) You should ignore the numbers under the BrThe yellow oto test can "show" the strength of the chlorine above 5, BUT the color differences are so subtle, most humans can't see the color difference. and you have to note the color at 30sec for FC, then wait 2min for the color to fully set in, IF you have CC's, as the color at 2min is the TC.
Here is my OTO test when I was comparing my OTO to DPD test
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You are correct
Oh wow, I can difenitley see what you mean about the color range at that level being so similar!!!
Thanks!
Thanks!
DeanP66
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All afternoon I have been dosing bleach and testing. I lost count ,but used probably 14 gallons of bleach and looks like reading still below 5. Need to quit for the day, (get more bleach) will that be an issue?
DeanP66
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Shouldn't be an issue, just continue when you can, as long as you don't wait a week.
Try running another ammonia test and see how much it has dropped.
Try running another ammonia test and see how much it has dropped.
Haven’t SLAM yet...just adding bleach until FC holds at 5 . Just trying to get rid of ammonia. Hopefully I can SLAM soon. My understanding is once I get the correct reagents continue to make sure I have gotten rid of ammonia , then can up my CYA , adjust pH ,( looks like it is at 7.2 )and begin SLAM . Do I have that right? Again , all my thanks!