Hope this site can show a pool rookie how to keep his 16' × 32' × 52" Intex above ground pool safe and operational for many years to come. With winter approaching I'll need any help I can get on winterizing WITHOUT dis-assembling!!! ???
New to TFP from Washington state.
- Thread starter RustySax
- Start date
Welcome Rusty!
Winterizing an Intex is pretty simple. The pool should have come with some black plugs, those go in the holes for the tubing on the inside. You could lower the water level if you want, but it's not necessary unless you have a through wall skimmer. Then you can disconnect the pump and filter, drain and store them somewhere dry. Get a couple ring pool floats, stack them up and then put a beach ball in the center. Tie them so they don't come apart and then put those in the center of the pool under the cover that came with the pool so it's like a tent. I'd suggest then using a tarp over the cover and weigh that down around the pool with some bleach jugs filled with water, or you could get some tent stakes and stake it to the ground.
It will get some water collecting on the cover around the edges if it's not tight, but it shouldn't be a problem. Just go empty it when you can. Snow shouldn't be a problem, as long as the water is in the pool it won't be an issue on the frame.
Insofar as water chemistry, can you tell us how you're chloriniating and testing right now?
Winterizing an Intex is pretty simple. The pool should have come with some black plugs, those go in the holes for the tubing on the inside. You could lower the water level if you want, but it's not necessary unless you have a through wall skimmer. Then you can disconnect the pump and filter, drain and store them somewhere dry. Get a couple ring pool floats, stack them up and then put a beach ball in the center. Tie them so they don't come apart and then put those in the center of the pool under the cover that came with the pool so it's like a tent. I'd suggest then using a tarp over the cover and weigh that down around the pool with some bleach jugs filled with water, or you could get some tent stakes and stake it to the ground.
It will get some water collecting on the cover around the edges if it's not tight, but it shouldn't be a problem. Just go empty it when you can. Snow shouldn't be a problem, as long as the water is in the pool it won't be an issue on the frame.
Insofar as water chemistry, can you tell us how you're chloriniating and testing right now?
We have a local store that test water samples for free so that helped get a little idea of where I was at. I've been putting a 3" tablet in the filter basket about once a week or so. A bag of shock, stabilizer, and ph increaser once a week.
Oops, I forgot to tell you to close the pool after the water is 60 degrees or less. Algae doesn't grow well in cold water.
You can read about water chemistry for closing your pool in Pool School.
Those tablets are acidic and not good for your pump because when it's not running the acid and chlorine becomes very high and can damage your equipment. Tablets should always be in a floater.
That being said, I believe our Intex pools are just as important as a 30K gallon $80K pool, and I also follow the TFP method which means I only add what my pool needs, and nothing more. I add bleach at night and only use the tablets if I'm going to be away. There is no need to shock the pool weekly. The trichlor tablets and the shock powders (dichlor likely) all add CYA. Too much CYA means your chlorine can't sanitize properly or battle organics.
If you want to learn more about the TFP method, check out ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and the entirety of Pool School.
Also, of great importance is the FC/CYA Levels.
Pool stores are notoriously inaccurate with their testing. Your own proper test kit is essential. See Test Kits Compared.
Let us know if you have any questions, I'd imagine you have a good month or more with warm weather on the other side of the mountains.
You can read about water chemistry for closing your pool in Pool School.
Those tablets are acidic and not good for your pump because when it's not running the acid and chlorine becomes very high and can damage your equipment. Tablets should always be in a floater.
That being said, I believe our Intex pools are just as important as a 30K gallon $80K pool, and I also follow the TFP method which means I only add what my pool needs, and nothing more. I add bleach at night and only use the tablets if I'm going to be away. There is no need to shock the pool weekly. The trichlor tablets and the shock powders (dichlor likely) all add CYA. Too much CYA means your chlorine can't sanitize properly or battle organics.
If you want to learn more about the TFP method, check out ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and the entirety of Pool School.
Also, of great importance is the FC/CYA Levels.
Pool stores are notoriously inaccurate with their testing. Your own proper test kit is essential. See Test Kits Compared.
Let us know if you have any questions, I'd imagine you have a good month or more with warm weather on the other side of the mountains.
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