Hi, I’ve just read dieselman’s thread. I’ve installed the swg and variable pump motor yesterday. A few steps for starters to run by the more experienced ones among you as to the next steps. I have chlorine and ph at appropriate levels. It’s 64°F here presently. Off to buy a test kit and salt, any suggestions are welcome. First step, I plan to add stabilizer and salt. Pool math has it at 14 40lb bags. 8 lbs stabilizer to bring it up to 70 ppm. Found this level of CYA advice on previous thread posted by dieselman. NEXT STEP run pool with SWG in off position for 24 hours. Next, test chlorine, CYA and salt levels adjust as needed. Turn on SWG and that’s it. 19237 gal, Gunite/inground, DE Hayward filter, CircuPool universal40 SWG, century Vgreen EVO variable speed motor.
New to SWG. Installed a salt water generator yesterday and variable pump. Next steps
- Thread starter Debra Ann II
- Start date
elwood58
LifeTime Supporter
You are on the right track. Do not assume zero salt when calculating how much to add. It is easier to add more as needed. Once the salt is in your water the only way to reduce is via water replacement. 24 wait will keep the salt cell happy.
70 ppm of CYA is too much in your area at this time of the year. More appropriate would be around 40 ppm. Next year you can bump it up.
Are you planning to winterize your pool soon? If so, you may consider postponing the SWCG startup until next spring.
Are you planning to winterize your pool soon? If so, you may consider postponing the SWCG startup until next spring.
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Thank you. was planning to start it up to be sure all is well and running properly. And I agree 40 ppm for CYA is where I had my levels. I had gotten the 70 ppm off another thread. Usually I shock with 73% for winter hiatus along with algicide. Being my pool plaster is wearing off the upper top three feet, algae has embedded itself and I have battled it all summer without success. I have hope to eradicated it in colder weather with a last attempt before putting the pool to bed for the winter. Have you any suggestions of type/ name of salt to use and testing kits? I’m looking for end of season deals.
Thank you. Definitely will test. Any suggestions for type of test/ kit for salt? Also what brand of salt?
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,809
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Debra,
Here's our recommended levels for swg pools:
You can typically go low end of the recommended level before and after peak sun levels in the season. You should not need any tablets in the tablet feeder after you install swg unless you use it for raising the CYA level or something breaks in your swg. If you have a lot of extra tablets don't worry, if you keep them in dry cool spot they'll last almost forever.
Expect your FC level to cycle normally a couple ppm. Don't try to stay at one number or it will drive you nuts. Stay in a range at high end of target and above a few ppm. This way you'll never have a problem with algae if something unexpected happens. After a month or so as the range stabilizes you can make adjustments to lower the range without risking below min levels. You can use our Pool Math app to estimate initial settings to achieve the required FC levels. Just go to the "effects of adding" section under the menu top left. Select SWG then search for your brand and model. It will populate the peak FC production data for your unit. Then you can see the amount of FC added for different run times for your pool. Typically you want to add 3 ppm per day for your location this time of year but there are a lot of variables. So get your FC level to top of range with liquid chlorine, remove the tablets then watch the trend. After 2 days lower or raise run time slightly. Then see how this works. Within a week or so you should be pretty stable. I usually like to start at 40-50% power if possible. This should work for your model swg and your pool. After stabilizing you should be able to run and only adjust run time a couple times per year. % power will be changes over time and not likely needed first or second year of operation.
With your "embedded" algae you will have algae ready to attack until you eradicate it with a SLAM. Stay at SLAM levels and scrub thoroughly until you pass an OCLT test. First day of SLAM try to recheck FC level every 4 hours or so and bring it back to SLAM level. Don't try to go above this as it can cause damage and isn't safe to swim in. The more time you stay at SLAM level in the first few days the shorter your SLAM will be. If your pool is clear or nearly clear, a well done SLAM will take less than a week.
Once you pass OCLT you have killed the algae and should be able to go back to normal FC levels. Below are some links that should be helpful.
Test Kits Compared
Good luck and feel free to ask questions any time. As you've already seen we have a lot of members that will jump in and help.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris
Here's our recommended levels for swg pools:
You can typically go low end of the recommended level before and after peak sun levels in the season. You should not need any tablets in the tablet feeder after you install swg unless you use it for raising the CYA level or something breaks in your swg. If you have a lot of extra tablets don't worry, if you keep them in dry cool spot they'll last almost forever.
Expect your FC level to cycle normally a couple ppm. Don't try to stay at one number or it will drive you nuts. Stay in a range at high end of target and above a few ppm. This way you'll never have a problem with algae if something unexpected happens. After a month or so as the range stabilizes you can make adjustments to lower the range without risking below min levels. You can use our Pool Math app to estimate initial settings to achieve the required FC levels. Just go to the "effects of adding" section under the menu top left. Select SWG then search for your brand and model. It will populate the peak FC production data for your unit. Then you can see the amount of FC added for different run times for your pool. Typically you want to add 3 ppm per day for your location this time of year but there are a lot of variables. So get your FC level to top of range with liquid chlorine, remove the tablets then watch the trend. After 2 days lower or raise run time slightly. Then see how this works. Within a week or so you should be pretty stable. I usually like to start at 40-50% power if possible. This should work for your model swg and your pool. After stabilizing you should be able to run and only adjust run time a couple times per year. % power will be changes over time and not likely needed first or second year of operation.
With your "embedded" algae you will have algae ready to attack until you eradicate it with a SLAM. Stay at SLAM levels and scrub thoroughly until you pass an OCLT test. First day of SLAM try to recheck FC level every 4 hours or so and bring it back to SLAM level. Don't try to go above this as it can cause damage and isn't safe to swim in. The more time you stay at SLAM level in the first few days the shorter your SLAM will be. If your pool is clear or nearly clear, a well done SLAM will take less than a week.
Once you pass OCLT you have killed the algae and should be able to go back to normal FC levels. Below are some links that should be helpful.
Test Kits Compared
Good luck and feel free to ask questions any time. As you've already seen we have a lot of members that will jump in and help.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris
Last edited:
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,809
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
To add to Genes spectacular assent above, the time of season comes into play too. UV loss starts real low, spikes for the peak season then drops in the fall. Think of a bell curve.
There's an occasional whoopsie week in there that's particularly hot / cool / cloudy, but for the most part it follows the plan.
A couple ppm above min may be plenty in April/september with less daily loss, yet you may need to run above target range in the peak season to not fall too close to minimum FC with the swing. Adjust your targets based upon recent testing and consider the time of day in regards to when the SWG is going to run. If you finish the day still above min and the SWG puts it all back before tomorrow, you're golden. If you're starting the day closer to min and the SWG isn't going to run until that night, that's no Bueno.
So always consider the time of day, and the point in the season.
There's an occasional whoopsie week in there that's particularly hot / cool / cloudy, but for the most part it follows the plan.
A couple ppm above min may be plenty in April/september with less daily loss, yet you may need to run above target range in the peak season to not fall too close to minimum FC with the swing. Adjust your targets based upon recent testing and consider the time of day in regards to when the SWG is going to run. If you finish the day still above min and the SWG puts it all back before tomorrow, you're golden. If you're starting the day closer to min and the SWG isn't going to run until that night, that's no Bueno.
So always consider the time of day, and the point in the season.
I’m using the Taylor TF-100
Update: testing with drop test for chlorine levels, kept at 10 FC, CYA 0, and 99% clear of algae. Some of pool surface has eroded/ scrubbed away in endeavor to take off algae, left a wholesome home for following algae growth
. Temperatures at mid 60°F, helps me as I scrub away at the 1% left. Question, do I continue to slam? With 58% sodium dichloro -s-triazinetrione, or throw in pool salt and let circupool universal 40 take over? I’ll be looking for a resurfacing in the spring. Also, I have a 7.5 ph, is it warranted to take an alkalinity test?
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,809
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,809
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Here's the deal .... your really aren't following the SLAM Process.I’m using the Taylor TF-100
Update: testing with drop test for chlorine levels, kept at 10 FC, CYA 0, and 99% clear of algae. Some of pool surface has eroded/ scrubbed away in endeavor to take off algae, left a wholesome home for following algae growth
The SLAM Process states a CYA of 30 (or more) and you just reported a CYA of zero.
You should be using liquid chlorine for the SLAM Process, not 58% DiChlor.
You aren't done with the SLAM Process until you pass ALL three exit criteria.
99% clear of algae, means you still HAVE algae. Continue the SLAM Process.
How old are your test kit reagents or is this a new TF-100 youjust received?
Once you pass the SLAM Process, post a full set of current test results from your TF-100.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (from your own drop based test)
Water temperature
Oh - and add your test kit to your signature