New to pools and salt - what could go wrong...

[Opasan45]

Alright - kit came in, thankfully my oldest is a chemistry whiz!

My numbers are concerning and no where near what the pool store said. Here we go...

Ph = 7.8
Salt = 3200 (a little low) add salt
FC = 20.5ppm whoa!!!! Tested twice same result
CC = 1ppm
CH = 700ppm (tested twice same result)
TA = 90ppm
CYA = 120

Still waiting on the salinity test kit to come in.

I'm really really bummed I didn't get this kit before...please help

 

[mknauss]

A couple parameter are a bit elevated, but, you live in Florida. It rains in Florida.

Follow the FC/CYA Levels. When you know it will rain, drain several inches and let that fill up your pool.

Or, if water is cheap, drain about 1/3 and fill it up. Be aware draining entails risks. Draining - Further Reading

 

[Opasan45]

Thanks for the reply, are any of these levels causing the green tint in the water? Is that chlorine level too high to swim in?

 

[mknauss]

If cloudy and green, you have algae. If clear and green, you have iron.

Read FC/CYA Levels. Your FC target range for a CYA of 120 is 9-11 ppm. SLAM level is 45 ppm FC. It is very safe to swim in the pool.

 

[wireform]

As long as the FC is not higher than the slam target your good. The green tint is the high CYA making the FC less effective thus causing algae.

 

[Opasan45]

As long as the FC is not higher than the slam target your good. The green tint is the high CYA making the FC less effective thus causing algae.

Thanks - will drain and fill little by little over the next few days to get it down to semi normal levels. Anything to watch out for since it's a salt system?

 

[mknauss]

Anything to watch out for since it's a salt system?

All the SWCG does is create your chlorine. You manage your pool water chemistry based on Recommended Levels and FC/CYA Levels.

 

[Opasan45]

After three hours of water exchanging here are the numbers, getting a little bit better so I'll continue exchanging the water. Current estimated water exchanged is about 1100 gallons, about 10% of the water has been exchanged.

Ph = 7.7
Salt = 3200 (no change)
FC = 16ppm
CC = 0.5ppm
CH = 525ppm
TA = 100ppm
CYA = 100

The pool water is moving to the blue side of the spectrum now - its less green! I'm keeping my eye on that FC/CYA chart for sure. Will test again in 3 hours and we'll see where we're at and I'll let ya'll know.

 

[mknauss]

What water are you testing if you are exchanging? If you are getting mixing all ready, you will waste a lot of water.

 

[Opasan45]

What water are you testing if you are exchanging? If you are getting mixing all ready, you will waste a lot of water.

i have the hose at the shallow end of the pool and taking water from the submerged pump at the bottom of the deep end. pool pump is off - same gal/min out of the pool and into the pool

 

[mknauss]

Are you testing the water from the deep end?

 

[Opasan45]

Are you testing the water from the deep end?

yes, the water coming out of the submerged pump - not the surface water at the deep end

 

[wireform]

You still can't test the water until the pumps are running for a good while but hold off on any pump action till you are completely done with the exchange. If you mix the water and find it still too high it will be lots of wasted water. I advise to exchange more than you calculated just to be sure you can arrive at the desired level in the end.

 

[mknauss]

yes, the water coming out of the submerged pump - not the surface water at the deep end

Well, it appears you may have some mixing all ready occuring. That is not good. Follow what Wireform states above.

 

[Opasan45]

Awesome - thank you both. By my calculations I will have reached 2,000 gallons replaced in about 30 mins. Goal was 1,800. Then I'll let the pumps do its thing to cycle the pool - about 3 hours to cycle it once, then test. That a good strategy of attack?

 

[wireform]

I'd take another 500 gallons to make up for some possible mixing. You can always add more of whatever if it's low but if it's still high anything short of draining won't work.

 

[Opasan45]

I know it may not be accurate but the numbers are finally getting where I want them to be

Ph = 7.7
Salt = 2980 (will need to add salt)
FC = 14ppm
CC = 0.5ppm
CH = 500ppm
TA = 90ppm
CYA = 80

Put the pump back on and will run it over night to filter out any junk that came in from the hose water. Will test the FC levels this evening and early in the morning to see if there is any algae eating my FC. If not I should be good to go from here on out. The water is a lot bluer but still a green hue to it. Will need to test for iron if the FC stays within 1ppm of tonight and tomorrow morning correct?

Thanks everyone for all the support - here's to a great pool maintenance season!

 

[mknauss]

Good plan.
How are you testing your Salt level?
Keeping your pH lower will assist in the iron. Put some paper towels or polyfill in your skimmer basket and see if they turn brown.

 

[Opasan45]

Good plan.
How are you testing your Salt level?
Keeping your pH lower will assist in the iron. Put some paper towels or polyfill in your skimmer basket and see if they turn brown.

Thanks! That's helpful to know I'm learning For the salt I'm using a salinity meter for salt water pools I picked up online with calibration packets.

If I lower my Ph to 7.2 and have iron the paper towels (or filters) would turn brown - did I read your statement correctly?

 

[mknauss]

The green tint, if iron, means if you put paper towels in the skimmer, they should turn brown (rust).
Lowering the pH may put the iron back in solution, and thus you would not see it nor be able to capture it as it would be with the paper towels.