Hello all! Not sure if I’m posting in the correct thread. My plaster is about a month old and I’m seeing some “blotchy” spots. We used Radiant Fusion to plaster the pool. The plaster guy is telling me it’s a water issue and to add Muriatic acid. As far as I know, the water is balanced but I’ve been relying on a pool company to do that for me. After looking on here, I’m thinking it might be time to take matters into my own hands. I’m pretty doubtful that this is a water issue. I’m thinking that there might have been issues with the application. Can someone with experience take a look at these pics and give me some feedback? Is pursuing the water issue worth my time or do I need to get serious about warranty questions? Attached are recent water test readings.
New to pool water testing/plaster question
- Thread starter Jojom0406
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,649
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you have new plaster, your pH will be rising far faster than any weekly pool service can handle. I would be very suspect of those test numbers (and the FC is low no matter what). You need your own test kit.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,910
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
BOTH. That does not look right to me (no expert here). Plaster finishes will mottle over time. Mine is just showing the signs of that 3 years after it was installed (I have a mini pebble). My old plaster did it, too, but nothing like what you're seeing.
I will never let a pool guy near my pool again. I recommend the same for you, especially during the first year. If you stick with TFP, you'll find it to be very easy, and it'll cost you around 10% of what you're paying a pool guy. (Not 10% less, I'm mean 90% less!) And you'll have total confidence in your water chemistry, both in terms of finish longevity and health, but also regarding the safety of the water for your family.
Marty has pointed out that your pH is not being taken care of properly once a week, that's even more true for sanitation. You might get away with once a week in the winter, but not in swim season. A pool needs chlorine every day, maybe every other if you want to stretch it. To go once a week, you either have to goose the chlorine really high, and run out before the week is up, or use chemicals that will eventually necessitate a drain of your pool (probably both, if a pool guy is doing the servicing).
Fire the pool guy, learn about the right way, and the most cost-effective way, to maintain a pool, here at TFP, including during this first year.
Call the PB or plaster guy out for a consult regarding the finish. If there's something chemically that can be done to fix that, let HIM do it. Not you. Otherwise, you could void your warranty, which would let him off the hook for the fix. It was not appropriate for him to advise you to dose the pool without seeing the problem in person, IMO (if that's what you were describing). If he uses the words "acid wash," check in here before you agree to that.
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Thank you, Dirk! I’m going to have to get up to speed on chemistry ASAP! I found the resource for the recommended testing kits and will order and see what is going on.
I’m having trouble finding the info on recommended test kits. I thought I saw a recommendation for a TF-100 or a Taylor K-2006. Maybe it was on another site. Any specific test kit recommendations?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,649
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
