New to pool management

[sandeepkc]

I have a salt water inground plaster pool with Jandy cartridge filter, Jandy SWG and FloPro pump. I went through the basics of school pool and would like to understand a few questions

1. For SWG pools, do I test for chlorine/CYA or salt in my water?
2. Based on what I find low, can you please recommend what chemicals to add for each of the "not-so ideal" parms and is there a particular order to add the chemicals. i.e. do and don't of not doing chemicals together.
Based on my reading, I think these are CYA/Stabilizer for less chlorine, muriatic acid for PH, Baking Soda for Total Alkanity, Calcium Chloride - for Hardness.
3. Also, how do I know how much quantity/volume of chemicals to add?

Thanks
sandeep

 

[markayash]

Usually you only test salt once a year or if you have a low salt light. Get the Taylor 1766
For CYA and others get a full test set but CYA and Chlorine are a great start,
Do you have a test kit now?

 

[sandeepkc]

No, I am yet to buy a test kit and was wondering what is the base one I can start with to ensure I get this right at first before buying the expensive ones. I have a few test strips from Home Depot.

 

[markayash]

The TF100 is the best deal out there. The Taylor 2006 was a great kit also but the prices have gone a way up recently
Here is the TF one, worth every penny

TF-100 Test Kit

tftestkits.net

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome! I agree, the TF-100 is a great value. If you can get the magnetic speedstir, that is an ideal accessory as well. About some of your questions, many of those are answered in the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. You can also read/save the Vital Links below in my signature. Those links will help you as well. Don't forget to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info and include the test kit your order as well.

A couple basics:
- FC (liquid chlorine or SWG) & CYA (stabilizer/conditioner) work together as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to prevent algae
- PH, TA, CH and water temp work together to condition the water to prevent scale or erosion

We use the PoolMath APP (or PoolMath webpage) to help us determine how much of a product is required to reach our intended goal. Again, those links below tell you what to use and how to apply. With a little reading and practice, you'll get the hang of this in no time. Once you get your test kit, post a full set of results and we'll walk you through everything,

 

[sandeepkc]

My first test results

Free Chlorine : 5
Ph: 8.2 ( seems high), have to lower this
Alkanity: 140 ( seems high), have to lower this
Calcium: 500 ( seems high), have to lower this
CYA : 100

I downloaded the pool math app (PMA). I took a stab at my pool gallons . it is oval shaped 32 ft long, 18 ft wide and average dept of 5.5 ft.. seems like the formula was 32*18*5.5*5.9 -- so around 19K gallons..

Based on the above PMA gave me some recos but it has multiple drop downs for which chemical to use. How do I know what to select there?

 

[Texas Splash]

Okay, good job. So a couple things right now:
1. A CYA of 100 is a bit too high, even for a salt pool. See FC/CYA Levels. If you didn't do the CYA "diluted" test method, you probably should to be safe - started at Step #8 as seen HERE. If you still end up with a total CYA of 100, then you know you only need to exchange about 20% of your water. Not bad. But if you find the CYA to be higher, you should exchange a bit ore water to get your CYA down to about 70-80. Once you do that, the CYA will never increase unless you want it to. The little water exchange might also help to lower your CH a bit as well.
2. You are correct about the pH. Since the CH and TA are also high, lowering the pH is critical to avoid scale. I'd shoot for about 7.5 for now.
3. Keep the FC a bit stronger during this transition of adjusting things. The last thing you need is algae.

Remember to never add muriatic acid and chlorine to the same spot at the same time. Give them a few minutes apart with good water circulation at the return jets and you should be fine.

Normally we don't like to see chemicals get wasted during a water exchange, but you're in a tough spot. You need to lower the CYA, but you don't want the pH too high, nor do you want algae. But the sooner you verify the CYA with that diluted test method, the sooner you can confirm how much water to exchange to lower it down to about 80 at least.

We'll work the TA later. Let us know if you have any questions