New SWG pool, pool pilot, salt levels, boost and superboost

Jump to latest Follow Reply
P

Pool Novice2

0
Silver Supporter
Oct 19, 2016
51
Long Island, NY
So, my new inground vinyl/concrete pool is up and running. Will post specs into signature soon, but it is 26,000 gal SWG (digital pool pilot) rectangular pool, with Jandy VS pump, cartridge filter and jxi heater. Pool is generally in shade, except for 11-3.

1. The pool co came to set up/explain pump/filter/SWG and because they were missing a part, had to cancel and come back a 2nd time. However....in the process of the 2 visits, they dumped what they thought to be the right amount of salt in my pool 2x. So, SWG salt reading was 5000. I've done minor drain and refill 2x to bring it down to 4800, but I guess I'll have to do about 10x to bring pool to proper levels @ 3500ish. Based on other posts, that seems to be the only way to bring down salt levels, correct?

2. After liner install and pool fill (10 days ago), the pool sat for a week waiting for electrical contractor to hook up equipment. So, the pool became a dirty mess in that week, between tree debris and dirt/sand around edges. Now pump/filter is running, pool has been vacuumed several times by polaris/manually and bottom is clean. Pump filter is running nearly all day. Pool co initially hit and ran a "boost" mode on SWG. Regardless, pool water is still cloudy-ish, especially in deep end where it also has a greenish tint. As such, I'm assuming the water needs to be shocked. Is that what "boost/superboost" mode does on pool pilot? I understand boost is 24hrs and superboost is 72hrs and it increases the purifier percentage to 100% for the period....but what does that really mean? Does that actively increase chlorine in pool (I'm assuming yes to an extent)? Does it also somehow increase salt content (I'm assuming no)? Does hitting boost prematurely wear down the salt cell? Would dropping bleach in pool (at appropriate levels) have same impact?

Thanks!
 
1: Yes, water replacement is the only way to reduce salt levels. You may want to have a word with the company about the added time and expense you are facing from dumping several thousand gallons of water due to their mistake.

2: Boost just runs the cell at 100% for however long it is programmed for, and yes it absolutely wears the cell way faster. SWGs are great at maintaining a chlorine level but for raising FC levels quickly bleach is the answer. The cloudiness and green are clear signs of algae, so a SLAM is in order to get the water clear and allow your SWG to take over as your sole source of chlorine.
 
PN,

I would continue to run the pump.

The TFP process relies on test results telling us the status of our pools and assisting us in determining what needs to be done to keep them clean, clear, and sanitized.

So, what are you using to test the status of your pool water?

We only use one of two kits, the TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006C. For us to provide valid feedback to our members, we request that they also use one of these two kits so that we are always comparing apples to apples.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Hi..Thanks. I ordered the TF-100 kit a day or two ago. I'm waiting for it to arrive and can then test and post results. In terms of pump run time...let me be more precise...I have it running 23 hrs a day....running 2500 rpms during day (11hrs) and 1700 rpms (12hrs) at night to keep pool status quo until I can shock/slam, but it it seems like overkill. I took another look at it last night...shallow end is deep clear blue and deep end is dark cloudy green/blue, but can see bottom. Does 23hrs a day make sense?

I'm also struggling with the right speed to run pump. I read the pool school forum on SWG pump run time, but don't think it really gave me a conclusive answer, but maybe feel plays a big role.
 
PN,

The great thing about variable speed pumps is that you can run them a lot, for not much money.

I can run my pump at 1,200 RPM 24/7 for less than $20 a month if I wanted.

You generally run a pump for three reasons:

1. To keep surface debris moving and being pushed into the skimmers. The more debris the more often you need to run the pump.

2. If you have a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWCG) you'll need to run it long enough to generate the amount of chlorine needed.

3. To circulate the water to ensure the chlorine is effectively distributed throughout the pool. Two or three hours per day is all that is needed for this to happen in most pools.

There really is no one answer that fits everyone.

In your case, let's look at chlorine production... I suggest you find the lowest RPM that will close the SWCG's flow switch and then add 100 RPM. For me that number is 1,200. So, when I want to generate chlorine I run at 1,200 RPM.

How long you run is a personal decision... A SWCG does not make more or less chlorine when you adjust the % of output. It merely runs for some percentage of an hour.

So, a SWCG that is set to 10% and the pump runs for 10 hours, makes the same amount of chlorine as a SWCG set to 100% and the pump runs for 1 hour.

Personally I like running the pump longer with the SWCG % low, as I believe this provides a more constant FC level. A lot of people here do exactly the opposite, they run their pump for a short period of time and set their SWCG at 100%.

You just need to decide what works for you..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
OK, thanks. I understand the concept that the SWCG does not make more or less chlorine when you adjust the purifier %, but runs for that % of the hour. Or...I think I now understand it, but never did before. I also understand the 10%/10hrs and 100%/1hr relationship.

What I don't understand is..."find the lowest RPM that will close the SWCG's flow switch.." What is the flow switch is...and what will make it close and how will I know when it's closed?
 
Pool Novice2 said:
OK, thanks. I understand the concept that the SWCG does not make more or less chlorine when you adjust the purifier %, but runs for that % of the hour.
Click to expand...

Correct. AutoPilot Pool Pilot units actually work in 15 minute increments. So if you set the purifier to 10% it would produce chlorine for 1.5 minutes and idle not producing chlorine for 13.5 minutes.

What I don't understand is..."find the lowest RPM that will close the SWCG's flow switch.." What is the flow switch is...and what will make it close and how will I know when it's closed?
Click to expand...

The flow switch on the AutoPilot Pool Pilot is a part of the tri-sensor assembly: AutoPilot Pool Pilot Experts | SaltPoolGuys.com

In the photo shown on that page you'll see some pieces coming off the top of the sensor. The two longer pieces make up the flow switch. There is a metal paddle and a plastic post behind it. When enough water is flowing through the pipe the water will force the metal paddle to touch the plastic post. This then sends a signal to the Pool Pilot that there is sufficient water flow to produce chlorine. You have no way to actually view this happpening since it is installed in your plumbing. Instead, on the Pool Pilot if there is no sufficent water flow you will see a "purifier off - check flow" message on the display. If you don't see this message it means you have sufficient water flow.
 
So, I went to look at my Pool Pilot and pump last night to think about adjusting purifier percentage and pump speed/time and had one comment and one question:

1. To confirm...the minimum rpm is completely unrelated to the purifier percentage and SWCG effectiveness. Basically, the lowest pump speed that keeps the SWCG working is acceptable (assuming it also works for any other variables...heater/filter/skimmer/etc). If so, that takes care of my pump speed question with regard to SWCG.

2. Duration of pump time and purifier percentage...What is the ideal SWCG purifier percentage for a day? Meaning...if I run at 10% purifier for 10 hours (or 40 15min [email protected] per 15min block), that equals 100% purifier level....for the day...but is that what I'm aiming to achieve? By way of another example....if I'm running at 50% purifier for 5hrs = 250% for the day...is that too much and I'm burning out the salt cell? Or...does it not really work like that?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
pn,


The SWCG's output does not change with the speed of the water passing though the cell. The SWCG does not make more Chlorine if the speed is increased.

How long you run your pump is something that you will have to initially determine based on your pool.

This time a year, I would set the cell to 40% and run for 8 hours and then test your chlorine (FC) to see where you are... (I suspect it will be a little high)

Depending on if the FC has gone up or down, you can then adjust your SWCG%, or pump speed, to adjust the amount of chlorine produced either up or down.

You will want your FC to correspond to your CYA level for a salt pool.. See this chart... Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Looking at the Saltwater (SWG) chart, you can see if your CYA is 70, your FC should be about 5 ppm.

After you do this a few times, you will get the hang of it and have "feel" about what works best for you..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply