New SWG not producing the specified amount of chlorine

mgtfp

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Mar 5, 2020
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Melbourne, Australia
Pool Size
66000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Astral Viron V35
I seem to have a problem with the new SWG that I bought a few months ago. Wanted to keep it out of the public forums for now until I settled potential warranty claims. Maybe a topic for @JoyfulNoise and @JamesW. Or @AUSpool and @aussieta with the local knowledge.

My old Hurlcon VX7T SWG (7-plate cell, 25 g/h (Cl₂), main unit from 2005, cell from 2007, Hurlcon is now AstralPool Australia) started behaving badly, so I had ordered a new one before it failed completely with lead times so long back then. I replaced it with an AstralPool Viron V35 (11-plate cell, 35 g/h (Cl₂)).

New SWG was finally installed at the end of last summer when temperatures were starting to get colder. But Aussie SWGs usually run all through winter. After a while I noticed that I had to crank up the SWG more than expected to keep FC constant. CYA at the time was still 80ppm, salt around 5000 ppm, temperature around 15°C. Did OCLT to rule out algae, all good. Fluidra customer service said that below 15°C the unit halves the Cl₂ output. So I let it be.

Once the temperature was back above 15°C recently, I started testing again. CYA at 60ppm (had torrential rains here, only add enough CYA to keep it above 60ppm right now, still spring here, otherwise I'm simply washing more down the drain - La Niña year). Salt around 5000ppm (most Aussie SWGs are designed to run at higher salt levels). And it still looked like the Cl₂ production is too low.

So I made another OCLT, still all good there. Then I did a proper "OCGT" (overnight chlorine gain test). My pool has 66000 liters, so a 35 g/h should produce about 0.53ppm FC/h at 100%. Running it for 9.5 hours over night, should add about 5ppm. Temperature around 19°C at the time. It added 2.5ppm.

Then I went into measuring the current. I should mention that my SWG (like many Aussie models) doesn't work on a duty cycle, it adjusts the current to regulate the Cl₂ production. You set it to a setting between 1 and 8, with 8 being 100%. It then shows you the setting it actually achieved, but not the actual current. If you set it for example to 8, it should also show 8 as the resulting "current". If it shows less, it produces less than it should, e.g. due to low salt. My Viron always showed the intended current value (The old Hurlcon couldn't get up to 8 anymore, which is why I replaced it).

Anyway, I got out my multimeter and hooked it up, measuring the current from 0 to 8. I also calculated the chlorine output per current. I summarised the results in this slide, also with a picture of the gas production at 100% as visible through the clear cell housing:

1667078111276.png

Summary: The measured cell current of 5.5A (corrected by the zero-current) is slightly more than in theory required to produce 35 g/h. So the unit obviously "thinks" it produces enough chlorine. But it doesn't.

To be sure that salt wasn't too low, I then added two more bags of salt, and did the same test with the same result. That got my salt up to about 5800ppm (the AstralPools are specified up to 8000ppm, and with our torrential rains at the moment this should come down quickly). At the time I thought my salt was a bit lower based on my salt meter reading, but in the meantime my fresh Taylor supplies arrived from the US and the 5800ppm is as measured with the Taylor salt test.

Then I hooked up my old Hurlcon SWG, which (apart from not reaching level 8 in it's older days) always seemed to produce chlorine as specified, and went through the same exercise:

1667078475337.png
As expected, The Hurlcon didn't increase the current beyond setting 7, but extrapolating the linear curve to 8 shows that the unit would have been aiming for 6.5A at setting 8, which would in theory result in slightly more than the specified 25 g/h.

Then I ran an OCGT with the Hurlcon, but only on setting 7. This should result in as Cl₂ production of about 21.9 g/h, which is FC 0.33 ppm/h in my pool. Running the same 9.5h over night, this should increase FC by about 3.1ppm. The result was again an FC increase over night of about 2.5ppm.

Summary:

The Hurlcon pretty much produces the expected amount of chlorine, but the new Viron V35 is basically 50% too low. Hurlcon basically produces on setting 7 with its 25g/h cell the same amount of chlorine as the Viron on setting 8 with its 35g/h cell.

But the current measured with the Viron, matches the specification, so it certainly thinks it is producing enough. Also, when you compare the photos with the gas clouds in the cells, the Viron seems to produce more gas than the Hurlcon. But I suspect that there is more than just H₂ and Cl₂ in that gas cloud.

Looking into the chemistry of NaCl (aq) electrolysis, there are two competing reactions possible at the anode (from chem.libretexts.org):

(i) 2Cl+(aq)⟶Cl₂(g)+2e-, E⁰=+1.35827V
(ii) 2H₂O(l)⟶O₂(g)+4H+(aq)+4e-, E⁰=+1.229V

Based on potentials, reaction (ii) is preferred, but due to overpotentials, reaction (i) is actually what should predominantly happen in an SWG cell. And I think this is where the Ruthenium coating is very important to catalyze the desired reaction.

So, now I finally come to the question that I actually have: Could there be something wrong with the Ruthenium coating of the cell, and the cell is not just producing Cl₂ at the anode, but also O₂? Under which circumstances would that even be possible? Something must discharge at the anode to create the current I measured, but it obviously is not just Cl- turning into Cl₂. I bought the new chlorinator at a time where I had to wait about 2 months to get it delivered, and it then had a production date that was just a week or so earlier. I suspect that one aspect in that long lead time might have had something to to with the availability of ruthenium in Australia after our monster Covid-19 lock-downs.

(EDIT: Turns out that it was a problem with the cell's plates assembly, see posts #23, #39, #40.)

The only other explanation I came up with with be electrical shorts between some of the cell plates, but I ruled that out by testing the resistance between plates, which was in the MΩ range, which I attribute to the cell still being wet when doing the resistance measurement.

The new cell had never been acid cleaned. I have 50ppm borates in the water, and the plates are as clean as on day 1. TA usually between 70 and 80ppm, CH around 400ppm, pH mostly above 7.8, verified with an Apera PH60 (calibrated at pH 4, 7 and 10.01).

I already talked with the store where I bought the SWG. Generally quite happy with that shop, and I buy all my hardware there. But when I explained to them that my SWG is not producing enough, and that I confirmed that with FAS-DPD testing, they looked at me as if I had walked in full Astronaut gear into the shop. I think I need a bit more substance to make a successful warranty claim.

Sorry for the long post, but I thought I try to cover the full story. Hope the picture is complete enough for a diagnosis. Or to reconfirm my status as a complete nerd with OCD.

EDIT:
Should add that FC was in the whole period where I ran these tests between 8 and 12ppm. I keep it around 10ppm over winter. Before going on holidays in July, I bumped it up to 21ppm, when I came back after 4 weeks it was at 9ppm (at about 10°C), no sign of algae.
 
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OMG, I just quickly skimmed and will get back to it later. I have the V25. The first thing to do is to double check the app settings. On more then one occasion my app has not passed the instructions on to the chlorinator where it has been left in the OFF position or an increase in run time or output was not received by the chlorinator. I find it interesting/disappointing that the control app has an AUTO ON OFF switch but the actual chlorinator does not.

My instructions/manual say to keep the salt at 4000ppm, I keep mine between 3000-3500ppm.

It sounds like yours has a warranty issue. Its almost like it has reduced output by 50% due to the low temp and failed to return to normal.

If it is a warranty issue it may be wise to do a phosphate treatment and then get your water pool shop tested. Please excuse me while I go wash my mouth out with soap.
 
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this should be in the deep end as a bit too technical
are you using the original controller or did you get a new controller as well
if new, are they outputting the same voltage
is the new cell polarity dependent
what did astral have to say

I thought about the deep end, but wanted to keep it out of the public until my warranty claim is through.

All new, new controller and new cell. Controller was from 2005, didn't want to buy a new cell and then have the controller fail.
 
Can't comment on the details, but @aussieta 's question on whether the controller was replaced is germane. Some US manufacturers use the same controller for cells with different capacities, but it's necessary to move a jumper or cut a circuit trace when switching from one to another.
 
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OMG, I just quickly skimmed and will get back to it later. I have the V25. The first thing to do is to double check the app settings. On more then one occasion my app has not passed the instructions on to the chlorinator where it has been left in the OFF position or an increase in run time or output was not received by the chlorinator. I find it interesting/disappointing that the control app has an AUTO ON OFF switch but the actual chlorinator does not.

My instructions/manual say to keep the salt at 4000ppm, I keep mine between 3000-3500ppm.

It sounds like yours has a warranty issue. Its almost like it has reduced output by 50% due to the low temp and failed to return to normal.

If it is a warranty issue it may be wise to do a phosphate treatment and then get your water pool shop tested. Please excuse me while I go wash my mouth out with soap.

I always checked that the settings arrived at the controller and it is part of my routine to walk past the cell and check that it's misting up.

The 50% reduction, that the customer service told me is happening below 15°C is a bit odd. To start with, I don't think the unit has a temperature sensor to initiate a hard change of mode, it can only go by current going down with salinity going down with temperature.

And that where it's odd: should the unit "deliberately" reduce the output by 50%, then it would do that by reducing the current by 50%. But the current looks right for 100%, and also the most cloud looks much bigger than that of the old Hurlcon, so it is producing something that carries the current through the water. But it looks this something is not just chlorine and hydrogen.

And yes, checking phosphates and removing them if "too high" is a good idea in this case to avoid pointless discussions. Please send that soap over when you're done with it.
 
Can't comment on the details, but @aussieta 's question on whether the controller was replaced is germane. Some US manufacturers use the same controller for cells with different capacities, but it's necessary to move a jumper or cut a circuit trace when switching from one to another.

New controller as well. And the measured current matches the expectation for the specified chlorine production. The current (which I measured with a multimeter straight at the cell, it's not a reading from the controller) is directly proportional to the amount of chlorine that is generated. Unless there is something else being created at the anode...
 
The first thing to do is to double check the app settings. On more then one occasion my app has not passed the instructions on to the chlorinator where it has been left in the OFF position or an increase in run time or output was not received by the chlorinator.

And yes, the app seems to have a few buggs. I noticed for example that the unit sometimes doesn't want to accept certain run times. Change by a few minutes, and it accepts it. No overlap of run times there, mind you.

When I change something via the app without standing in front of the unit, I usually exit and restart the app to confirm that the settings went trough, unless I stand for example right on the inside of the wall where the pump is and I hear it turning on into priming mode.
 
Should add that FC was in the whole period where I ran these tests between 8 and 12ppm. I keep it around 10ppm over winter. Before going on holidays in July, I bumped it up to 21ppm, when I came back after 4 weeks it was at 9ppm (at about 10°C), no sign of algae.
 

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I would also suggest you get your salinity back into spec and suggest you make sure your chemistry is tightened up. Reduce phosphates if present so you know that variable is out of the equation for any future warranty requests.

Also, what is your flow through the cell? Obviously it’s closing the flow switch but I’d like to know it’s on a reasonable range when generating and not too low.

Your chemistry looks right but I’m viewing your post on my phone at the moment and I’m not near my desk chair where serious contemplation is possible (for high level doctoral thinking, I take to the thrown room, ie, the dunny).
 
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I would also suggest you get your salinity back into spec and suggest you make sure your chemistry is tightened up.

That chlorinator is specified to run between 3000 and 8000 ppm salt. Usually I keep it between 4000 and 5000. But in periods of heavy rain where I have to drain a lot, I had also in the past (with my old chlorinator) bumped it close to 6000 and let it come down from there.

I also got a pool store (different one than I am dealing with in the SWG case) test yesterday to get an idea how my parameters look like in the eyes of "the industry", as that's what they will trust when it gets to warranty, and they tested at 3800ppm and told me to add more salt, which I ignored. So, to avoid being told that my salt is too low by Fluidra, I'd rather stay a bit higher for now.

Reduce phosphates if present so you know that variable is out of the equation for any future warranty requests.

According to above-mentioned pool store test, phosphates are OK, which is good for the warranty claim. Will run my own test later today and reduce if required. I usually check them once a year, should be OK.

Also, what is your flow through the cell? Obviously it’s closing the flow switch but I’d like to know it’s on a reasonable range when generating and not too low.


Good question. I don't think these Aussie SWGs actually measure flow. They have some sort of sensor that triggers low salt and no flow warnings / shut offs. How that sensor works, I don't know. They tend to show nonsense quite quickly. My old Hurlcon SWG (which evolved into the various AstralPool SWG series after Fluidra bought Hurlcon) that came with the house showed a constant low salt warning. Got told by the pool store that looked after that pool for the old owner to ignore that light as long as chlorine gets produced, which it did.

I did all of these chlorine production tests at a pump speed of 1900RPM, which is enough to keep my "The Pool Cleaner" suction cleaner running at a reasonable speed (even though I often go up to 2100RPM when running the cleaner to have it move a bit faster when there's lots to clean up), but it wasn't hooked up for these tests. Without the cleaner, I often run the pump at 1500RPM without any issues with the SWG. Even down to 1200RPM seems to still work, but I never go there because skimming gets pointless, and I get a lot leaves.

I never really calculated my flow in l/min, but since it is high enough to keep a suction cleaner running, I don't expect an issue for the SWG there. The 1900RPM I used for these tests should be heaps to keep the SWG happy.

Filter (sand) is as clean as it gets without actually doing a deep clean, all this rain over winter resulted in quite a few backwashes.

(for high level doctoral thinking, I take to the thrown room, ie, the dunny)

The dunny is a great place. Very inspirational...
 
Or that...

I do know a couple from my kids school and the mom is a good sheila from your neck of the woods. But I thought it would be weird to ring her up after supper and ask her how to say “toilet” in Aussie-ese … she probably would have hung up on me.

FWIW - I think your chlorine analysis is spot on but your warranty claim will be shot down. The system is operating within normal electrical parameters. These makers all assume if the voltage/current is correct and the plates are producing gas then it works. How you go about measuring chlorine content is somewhat complicated and just measuring FC in the water is not a great way to do it. But any other method of measuring output would be vastly more complicated. I think they’re going to tell you to buzz off … or whatever it is they say down under.
 
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I do know a couple from my kids school and the mom is a good sheila from your neck of the woods. But I thought it would be weird to ring her up after supper and ask her how to say “toilet” in Aussie-ese … she probably would have hung up on me.

That's what I love about this place - even the most technical discussion gets lightened with humour - we could even start to discuss how to spell that.


FWIW - I think your chlorine analysis is spot on but your warranty claim will be shot down. The system is operating within normal electrical parameters. These makers all assume if the voltage/current is correct and the plates are producing gas then it works. How you go about measuring chlorine content is somewhat complicated and just measuring FC in the water is not a great way to do it. But any other method of measuring output would be vastly more complicated. I think they’re going to tell you to buzz off … or whatever it is they say down under.

Thanks for your confirmation. That's what I kind of feared. As I said, they looked at me as if I had walked into the shop in full astronaut gear, when I tried to explain the problem. I don't think they understand that I can measure chlorine far more accurate and reliable than they do with their fancy electronic device with flashing lights and a digital display.

I will have another try, though. The shop owner always looked well after me, never pressured me into adding stuff, and always supportive in warranty claims, for example when I had issues with my LED lights that failed, first one just after end of warranty, second one a year later. So I kept buying my equipment there. But he is in process of selling his shop, and his interest and patience in keeping customers happy might be limited. But I think I have a better chance with him than going to Fluidra with the claim.
 
I think they’re going to tell you to buzz off … or whatever it is they say down under.

Spot on. Even though most Aussies would choose another word, but it shares the vowel with the one you suggested.
 

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