New SWCG with minimal instruction from installer

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M

Mpet

Active member
May 9, 2019
33
Hopkinton, NH
Hi All, I'm new to the forum after lurking last summer, which was my first as a pool owner. This spring we have had a new vinyl liner installed and added a SWCG and a new robot vac cleaner.

First question, after the new liner was installed, the pool was filled and the installers "balanced" the water. Currently after this I have the following numbers FC 2.5, pH 7.4, TA 140, CH 220, CYA 60. First question, is this TA too high? Do I need to try to correct it? Pool Math seems to suggest the rest is reasonable.

The SWCG was just connected yesterday. my second question is, the salt level says 3100 on the printout they gave me, the SWG screen says 4000 and a test strip reads about 6000. Which number do I believe? What is the best test to use for the salt measurement? If there is an instant salt reading available through the display (and if that is accurate) do I need to also be using another salt testing method?

Third question, the installers told me the SWCG wouldn't generate in the water temp was below 64 degrees, they told my husband 60 degrees, and the manual says 50 degrees. Right now the water is about 55 degrees (we live in New Hampshire and it a slow coming spring this year) and it seems to be generating. I presume the manual is correct on this?

That's all for now. Thanks for your help.
 
Your TA will come down as you add muriatic acid to lower your pH when it rises to 8. When the pH does get to 8, lower it to 7.6.

You should get a K1766 salinity test to check your water for salinity. If the SWCG is generating, it is fine right now. But always test the salinity with the K1766 before adding salt.

SWCG's typically quit generating somewhere between 50 and 60F. Obviously, believe the manual.

You should raise your FC to target level for your CYA - see FC/CYA Levels. Use liquid chlorine to raise your FC. Your SWCG is there to maintain the level. You will need to adjust the % setting and/or pump run time to generate the FC you need.
 
M,

Your cell will increase your FC by 6 ppm per day if the output is set to 100% and the pump is run for 24 hours..

I say this because most new SWCG users start out not running the SWCG long enough to produce the amount of chlorine they need. It is much better to generate too much and then turn it down, rather than trying to bring the FC up...

I guesstimate that your pool will use about 2 ppm per day.. To generate 2 ppm, you will need to run your pump for 8 hours and have the cell set to 100% output.. I would start at that level and see what happens.. If the FC is above your target you can lower the % or reduce the run time...

Before you start the SWCG, make sure that the FC is brought up using Liquid Chlorine and then start the cell running..

Make sure you keep your FC per this chart... FC/CYA Levels (Make sure you are using the Saltwater table..)

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I have dichlor granular shock left from last year. I know liquid is better now from reading here, but can I use this to increase the FC level now to use it up? Or should I get liquid and figure out how to get rid of the other?
 
Dichlor adds the same amount of CYA as FC. You can go to CYA of 70 ppm, just be sure to adjust your target level FC.
 
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JamesW said:
It looks like the SWG has a $100 rebate. Be sure to get that.

Rebates | Services - Hayward Pool Products

Hayward offers innovative new products with incredible rebate savings. Get cash back directly from Hayward on the products below when purchased from a Hayward Authorized Dealer.
www.hayward-pool.com www.hayward-pool.com

What are the diagnostic readings from the SWG?
Click to expand...

I found this tonight and sent it off. Thank you!

What do you mean diagnostic readings? I found the temp (55) and instant salinity (4800) readings. What else should I be looking at? The pump has kicked off on the timer for the evening and it is dark out so it will be tomorrow before i check it again.
 
The initial display is the average salinity.

When you push the button, the numbers are the diagnostic readings.

Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts)
3. Cell current (x.xx amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote
pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)

On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.
Click to expand...



Cold water (below 50ºF) causes AquaRite to stop generating. The Generating LED will be flashing and the display will say Cold.

Output is scaled back to 20% at 60° F and output stops at 50° F.

So, if the temperature is between 50 and 60 degrees, the production will be 20% of the actual setting.
 
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Ok. New set of tests and I have the diagnostic readings after 2 cold days with no generation.

FC 4.0, pH 7.5, TA 130, CH 180, CYA 70, Salt 3000 by Taylor kit and 4100 on the generator.

Diagnostics: 58/26.2/4.18/100P/-4100/AL-0/r1.59/t-9

Thanks for any suggestions you have as I get to know this set up.
 
Also I checked and the shock I have from last year is 68% CalHypo, not dichlor. Any issue using that up as chlorine source as needed? Also how frequently should I be shocking the pool? Is that necessary on top of the SWCG? I feel like I've read/been told different things.
 

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Jimrahbe said:
M,

I have three saltwater pools that are between 8 and 5 years old.. In all that time I have never added a single bag of "Shock"... It is just not necessary.

If you keep your CYA and FC per this chart, you never need to add any shock... FC/CYA Levels

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Great. Thanks for the clarification.

If I have a salt reading of 3000 by the taylor test and 4100 on the diagnostic screen, which should take as more accurate?
 
If you have a Hayward Aquarite AQR940, you should have a T-15 cell, but your box is set to T-9. That's why the salinity is incorrect. You need to change the setting to T-15.

See the video that I posted earlier for changing the T-cell type.

Also, note that the output is 20% of whatever the percentage is set to until the water gets above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
 
The box has a cycle of 180 minutes. The percentage setting determines how much of the cycle the cell generates.

If the water temperature is between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, the percentage is 20% of the actual setting.

For example, if the setting is 100% and the water is below 60 degrees, it only generates for 20% of 180 minutes, which is 36 minutes on and 144 minutes off.

During the off part of the cycle, the amps and instant salinity will be zero. The generating light will be on whenever the switch is in the auto or superchlorinate position even when the cell is not generating.

Once the water temperature is above 60 degrees, the percentage setting will be the actual setting.
 

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