- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Sounds about right. Would such a test still be valid with 1.0CC? I would think no right?
New RJ-30+ cell, zero amps, 28v, 0000 salinity?
- Thread starter djdonte
- Start date
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,327
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
CCs should have no bearing on production. You would need to deduct your previous night's loss. In a perfect world, you would want to do the test after seeing no OCLT loss. For now, ensure your salt level is in range.
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,327
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's because I got it backwards...
You would need to add the previous night's loss into your FC production number. Let's say your evening test is 6 ppm and you run the SWG all night. The morning test is 8.5 ppm (+2.5 ppm difference). Actual gain is 3.0 ppm when you factor in the estimated 0.5 FC loss.
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Got home today and did an FC test. This is the first time I've ended up with positive FC instead of losing with this SWG. Today was rainy in the morning, sunny during part of the hotter times then rainy again so pretty low UV. I now have less than 0.5 CC but not zero.
I had 9.0FC this morning at 4am well before the SWG turned on at 8am, 10.5 when I got home from work right before it turned off. Sun comes up at 630. 10 hours of the SWG should have been 6.6 added, which would theoretically be a FC loss of 5 today. When I was on LC, I typically used 4FC a day during the summer with 80 CYA. So I guess I'm not far off with a CYA of 60.
I'm going to do another OCLT tonight, and if it passes, I'll let the SWG run all night tomorrow to see what it puts out. Now I'm leaning towards it being a combination of low CYA and the SWG not putting out what it's supposed to. Previously if the SWG couldn't keep up, I needed to bump up the CYA. I'm hesitant to add CYA until I know I don't need to SLAM again.
DSP told me today that a flashing high salt light combined with a generate light should still be making FC. It is just warning me that salinity is slightly high. If it gets too high the high salt light will be solid and the cell will cease to generate. So my previous zero amps problem surely shut the cell down but not the blinking high salt light. It rained a ton today and my high salt light is now out. My salt will only go down, not up, so I dont think I will drain any water as long as the cell is generating. Either way this is lame. The last two times I got a new cell, I had to turn it down to 60-75 because my FC was going so high.
I had 9.0FC this morning at 4am well before the SWG turned on at 8am, 10.5 when I got home from work right before it turned off. Sun comes up at 630. 10 hours of the SWG should have been 6.6 added, which would theoretically be a FC loss of 5 today. When I was on LC, I typically used 4FC a day during the summer with 80 CYA. So I guess I'm not far off with a CYA of 60.
I'm going to do another OCLT tonight, and if it passes, I'll let the SWG run all night tomorrow to see what it puts out. Now I'm leaning towards it being a combination of low CYA and the SWG not putting out what it's supposed to. Previously if the SWG couldn't keep up, I needed to bump up the CYA. I'm hesitant to add CYA until I know I don't need to SLAM again.
DSP told me today that a flashing high salt light combined with a generate light should still be making FC. It is just warning me that salinity is slightly high. If it gets too high the high salt light will be solid and the cell will cease to generate. So my previous zero amps problem surely shut the cell down but not the blinking high salt light. It rained a ton today and my high salt light is now out. My salt will only go down, not up, so I dont think I will drain any water as long as the cell is generating. Either way this is lame. The last two times I got a new cell, I had to turn it down to 60-75 because my FC was going so high.
Last edited:
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,327
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Went from 10FC .25ishCC (very slight pink) at night, to 9FC and 1.0CC in the morning. Do you think I should SLAM? I'm thinking it couldnt hurt and should be a short one. I typically have zero CC.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,327
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You're right on the edge in terms of the overnight chlorine loss test, but your daily FC loss does seem excessive. If you got the time it might be a good idea.
Last edited:
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
I’m just gonna SLAM to be sure before I raise the CYA. If I spend 20 bucks on LC for the SLAM to be over in a day or two it’s cheap insurance.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,813
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
That's what I'd do. Will very likely be very short so long as you can maintain SLAM level. Make sure to check a few hours after you get to SLAM level. Keeping at SLAM initially always shortens the SLAM.
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
So I SLAMed last week and although I passed a OCLT after about one day (12hrs) of SLAMing, but to be sure I kept it going for another day since I had plenty of LC on hand. I still had trouble holding FC so I bumped up the CYA to 80 and it helped a tiny bit. However, I caught a glimpse of something in my cell yesterday and it ended up being full of white crud. Not sure how that happened so fast. I though perhaps it was CYA that got past the filter but it bubbled up real good when I soaked it in weak acid so I'm guessing it was calcium? My cell has never had a problem with adding CYA or SLAMing. My CSI is 0.03 and CH is within range so I'm pretty puzzled. My TA and CH are pretty stable. I do have to add a little acid twice a week since it will start to creep towards 8.2 with the SWG on. The cell is near brand new and I would hope DSP would have noticed it needed to be cleaned one of the two times they had it back if that was the case. When I replastered my pool years ago I kept the CSI slightly positive and that clogged up my cell pretty quickly. Should I run it slightly negative, and if so will that shorten the life of my plaster?
After the light cleaning my high salt light is blinking again with a salinity of 4200ish so that tells me the cell started getting gummed up last week. I still don't understand that one.
In any case I ran the SWG last night and gained 3.5FC in 7 hours, which is about 76 percent of the 4.6 pool math said it should have produced. I guess thats close, but last time I got a new cell I had to turn it down because it was producing crazy FC. I don't remember if it was this hot at that time though. The weird thing is when SLAMing, or at higher FC like near 20 and up I have zero detectable FC, but as soon as I bring it back down closer to normal levels of 10FC or so, CC pops back up like before my SLAM. I have no other symptoms of organic matter though. My CC reagent is probably 5 years old so perhaps I need to replace it?
After the light cleaning my high salt light is blinking again with a salinity of 4200ish so that tells me the cell started getting gummed up last week. I still don't understand that one.
In any case I ran the SWG last night and gained 3.5FC in 7 hours, which is about 76 percent of the 4.6 pool math said it should have produced. I guess thats close, but last time I got a new cell I had to turn it down because it was producing crazy FC. I don't remember if it was this hot at that time though. The weird thing is when SLAMing, or at higher FC like near 20 and up I have zero detectable FC, but as soon as I bring it back down closer to normal levels of 10FC or so, CC pops back up like before my SLAM. I have no other symptoms of organic matter though. My CC reagent is probably 5 years old so perhaps I need to replace it?
Attachments
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,024
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes you should, and no it won't. You have to really be in the negative (more than -0.6) for a long period of time for that to happen. You've confirmed the presence of calcium in the cell with the acid test, and a slightly positive CSI will allow scale to form fast. Try to keep your CSI anywhere from zero to -0.3 and that should help a lot.
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Ok then. Sounds like I need to add more acid to keep my pH at 7.5 or drain some water to lower my CH.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,024
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Your last CH is listed in Poolmath as 425. That's not bad at all. Your TA was listed as 70. That's not horrible either, but with acid treatments in the future it should slowly fall a bit. You can let the TA go as low as 50 and be fine, but no lower than 50. That might also help to slow the rise of pH. PH is always the major player in CSI. Do your best to keep it from exceeding 7.8 for sure.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,813
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
dj,
I think Pat has your solution nailed! I had the same swg as you on a similar pool size. Took me forever to get pH stable on new pool over here in Florida. Running TA 50 helped a lot and I also added borates. That helped me a lot also. After 2 years I found I didn't need it anymore. For some unknown reason it just took my plaster longer to cure I think. Also, all borates did was help stabilize my pH. I didn't see any of the other benefits that some have seen. Acid consumption didn't reduce but I was able to add much less frequently. Although it was definitely helpful to me I wouldn't do it until you try TA 50. It's just another chemical to keep up with so I saw it as a last resort.
I also managed CSI meticulously to the range Pat suggested and it really paid off. I ran almost 3 years and never had any visible build up in the cell and barely noticed any decline in performance. Ran very low % power first couple months then leveled out at 40% and never had to go up from there. Managing CSI was pretty easy by focusing on keeping within TFP ranges first then tweaking pH as Pat suggested.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris
I think Pat has your solution nailed! I had the same swg as you on a similar pool size. Took me forever to get pH stable on new pool over here in Florida. Running TA 50 helped a lot and I also added borates. That helped me a lot also. After 2 years I found I didn't need it anymore. For some unknown reason it just took my plaster longer to cure I think. Also, all borates did was help stabilize my pH. I didn't see any of the other benefits that some have seen. Acid consumption didn't reduce but I was able to add much less frequently. Although it was definitely helpful to me I wouldn't do it until you try TA 50. It's just another chemical to keep up with so I saw it as a last resort.
I also managed CSI meticulously to the range Pat suggested and it really paid off. I ran almost 3 years and never had any visible build up in the cell and barely noticed any decline in performance. Ran very low % power first couple months then leveled out at 40% and never had to go up from there. Managing CSI was pretty easy by focusing on keeping within TFP ranges first then tweaking pH as Pat suggested.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Do I need to lower the pH to 7.0-7.2 at one time to lower TA or can I do it gradually? My daughter has swim lessons tomorrow and then I'd like to swim this weekend. I have a waterfall to aerate.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,024
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Go ahead and lower it at once. The pH will rise quickly on it's own. As long as it's 7.2 or above all is good.
- Mar 25, 2019
- 690
- Pool Size
- 11300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Ok. I have a waterfall but a 1.5hp pump is a lot of power to run for a while on top of the pool pump. Is there a quicker way to aerate like something hooked to an air compressor?
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,327
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
