Only pool and filter are lit up green.
Diagnostics:
Chlorinator off
test salt level
Instant chlorinator off
flow switch
flow
cell temp sensor
86F
water sensor
86F
air sensor
85F
main software revision 2.66
Display software
Local-04 r3.00
New pool, SWG?
- Thread starter dustindb
- Start date
Only pool and filter are lit up green.
Diagnostics:
Chlorinator off
test salt level
Instant chlorinator off
flow switch
flow
cell temp sensor
86F
water sensor
86F
air sensor
85F
main software revision 2.66
Display software
Local-04 r3.00
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
What control do you have? It isn't just a SWG. That sounds like an automation system. If so you are beyond my SWG assistance. Someone who is more familiar with your system needs to confirm that the SWG power supply is OK. Then you can start shopping for a replacement cell. I am a little puzzled that your pump and filter are Pentair but the SWG appears to be a Hayward. The different brands don't play well together. What is the brand and model of the controller?
Is it Pentair? I learned a lot about when debugging an issue last year. I can help you make sure your PS is OK. If not I'll tap out.
The only Pentair products I see are the filter and pump. Controll appears to be Hayward/Aqualogic. Pics attached.
http://imgur.com/a/Pmebi
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
AquaLogic is not my forte. I put in a call for reinforcements. Standby.
Once we are able to confirm that the power supply is operational, you can start shopping for a new T-15 cell.
Once we are able to confirm that the power supply is operational, you can start shopping for a new T-15 cell.
Press the filter button to turn the pump off. Wait about 30 seconds and turn the pump back on. Go to diagnostics and see what the readings are. There will be a countdown delay before the chlorinator turns on. After the countdown, the readings will come on. They will take a minute to stabilize. Once they stabilize, record the numbers. Then press the "+" button. That will change polarity. There will be another countdown and new numbers. Once they stabilize, record them.
The cell is 10 years old and probably bad. A bad cell will cause the salt to read low.
It looks like the salt system is not turning on because the system thinks that the salinity is too low.
The salinity might actually be too low or the cell might be bad or a combination of both.
Check the pool salinity independently with a good test kit like the K-1766.
Go to default menu and press the ">" to see what that shows.
The cell is 10 years old and probably bad. A bad cell will cause the salt to read low.
It looks like the salt system is not turning on because the system thinks that the salinity is too low.
The salinity might actually be too low or the cell might be bad or a combination of both.
Check the pool salinity independently with a good test kit like the K-1766.
Go to default menu and press the ">" to see what that shows.
James-
Thanks for the help. Just to clarify, the SWG has not been in use for some time (years?). The owner gave up on it and went back to chlorine, I just took over a couple days ago. An inspector confirmed the cell needs replacement. Should I still proceed with your instructions? Cheers
Yes, check the numbers.
Also, check the actual salinity with a good test kit like the K-1766.
Also, check the actual salinity with a good test kit like the K-1766.
I'm trying to track down a salt test kit locally but striking out, might have to order one. Here are the other numbers:
+25.5V
+2.56A
92 F
700ppm
-27.07V
-1.72A
92F
300ppm
Then it says chlorinator off, check salt level
Ok, now you need an accurate measure of the salinity.
Once you get the salinity to about 3,200 ppm, redo the tests.
If the box salinity readouts are more than 800 ppm below actual salinity, then the cell is bad.
TFTestkits.net
Once you get the salinity to about 3,200 ppm, redo the tests.
If the box salinity readouts are more than 800 ppm below actual salinity, then the cell is bad.
TFTestkits.net
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
If you can't find a salt test, you may have to (gasp) have a pool store do a salt test. Not ideal but better than nothing.
I am trying to replace the t-cell and when I start to unscrew it from the union, water is continuously spewing out. I shut off the pump, power, and relieved filter pressure, I'm not sure what I'm missing.
Will my CYA naturally increase when I add salt? Right now it is about 30ppm
Will my CYA naturally increase when I add salt? Right now it is about 30ppm
D,
I would assume that the filter has water in it that is higher then where the cell is. Or, depending on your layout, the cell could be lower than your pool surface.
With the pump out, gravity is the only thing that will move the water.
I once cut a pipe below the level of the pool and it took half an hour for the water to quit draining. It did not look lower, but it sure was...
CYA will never naturally increase. You have to add it.. I would not initially add any yet.. Get your SWCG running and make sure everything works first.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I would assume that the filter has water in it that is higher then where the cell is. Or, depending on your layout, the cell could be lower than your pool surface.
With the pump out, gravity is the only thing that will move the water.
I once cut a pipe below the level of the pool and it took half an hour for the water to quit draining. It did not look lower, but it sure was...
CYA will never naturally increase. You have to add it.. I would not initially add any yet.. Get your SWCG running and make sure everything works first.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
To limit the amount of water that will drain when you uncouple the t-cell, shut down the pump, open the air vent on the top of your filter, than wait 10 min or more for it to drain down before uncoupling the cell.
Ok I'm almost there. Salinity is up and cell installed. I'm just waiting for the FC to drift down a bit. TFP is recommending 4-6 FC but the aqualogic manual recommends 1-3 FC. I plan to go with the manual unless there's a compelling reason otherwise. Also, even before the SWG, my ph has been rising very steadily, I'm adding lots of MA. Maybe I should introduce some borate?
Dustin,
You either want algae or not... If you follow the 1-3 FC recommendation you should just plant a sign in your front yard saying.. "Algae party this weekend"...
If you want a clean, clear and sanitized pool you have to follow the TFP numbers... See this chart. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Up to you, but I'm personally not much of a "party" person.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I was wondering who and how this question would be answered. Nice Jim!
it is surprising how badly I wanted to kee FC too low until I became TFD'ed (can that be a verb?) ;-).
it is surprising how badly I wanted to kee FC too low until I became TFD'ed (can that be a verb?) ;-).
Dustin,
You either want algae or not... If you follow the 1-3 FC recommendation you should just plant a sign in your front yard saying.. "Algae party this weekend"...
If you want a clean, clear and sanitized pool you have to follow the TFP numbers... See this chart. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Up to you, but I'm personally not much of a "party" person.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hmmm not my kind of party! Lastly, the diagnostics read 4000 salt ppm, while the taylor test shows 3000ish. Any problems with that?
dustin,
The important thing is making sure the cell believes it has the proper amount of salt, otherwise it will not work. The saying goes something like,... "A happy cell is a happy pool"...
I only have experience with Pentair salt cells, which cannot be calibrated.. I'd check your manual, as some cells have a way to calibrate the salt readings..
Thanks,
Jim R.
The important thing is making sure the cell believes it has the proper amount of salt, otherwise it will not work. The saying goes something like,... "A happy cell is a happy pool"...
I only have experience with Pentair salt cells, which cannot be calibrated.. I'd check your manual, as some cells have a way to calibrate the salt readings..
Thanks,
Jim R.