New pool, SWG?

dustindb

Active member
Aug 2, 2017
32
TX
What lights are on the panel and go through the diagnostic readings and list them with the pump on, the cell connected and the panel on.
Only pool and filter are lit up green.

Diagnostics:

Chlorinator off
test salt level

Instant chlorinator off

flow switch
flow

cell temp sensor
86F

water sensor
86F

air sensor
85F

main software revision 2.66

Display software
Local-04 r3.00
 

chiefwej

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 12, 2011
3,506
Tucson
What control do you have? It isn't just a SWG. That sounds like an automation system. If so you are beyond my SWG assistance. Someone who is more familiar with your system needs to confirm that the SWG power supply is OK. Then you can start shopping for a replacement cell. I am a little puzzled that your pump and filter are Pentair but the SWG appears to be a Hayward. The different brands don't play well together. What is the brand and model of the controller?
 

chiefwej

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 12, 2011
3,506
Tucson
AquaLogic is not my forte. I put in a call for reinforcements. Standby.

Once we are able to confirm that the power supply is operational, you can start shopping for a new T-15 cell.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
20,343
Press the filter button to turn the pump off. Wait about 30 seconds and turn the pump back on. Go to diagnostics and see what the readings are. There will be a countdown delay before the chlorinator turns on. After the countdown, the readings will come on. They will take a minute to stabilize. Once they stabilize, record the numbers. Then press the "+" button. That will change polarity. There will be another countdown and new numbers. Once they stabilize, record them.

The cell is 10 years old and probably bad. A bad cell will cause the salt to read low.

It looks like the salt system is not turning on because the system thinks that the salinity is too low.

The salinity might actually be too low or the cell might be bad or a combination of both.

Check the pool salinity independently with a good test kit like the K-1766.

Go to default menu and press the ">" to see what that shows.
 

dustindb

Active member
Aug 2, 2017
32
TX
Press the filter button to turn the pump off. Wait about 30 seconds and turn the pump back on. Go to diagnostics and see what the readings are. There will be a countdown delay before the chlorinator turns on. After the countdown, the readings will come on. They will take a minute to stabilize. Once they stabilize, record the numbers. Then press the "+" button. That will change polarity. There will be another countdown and new numbers. Once they stabilize, record them.

The cell is 10 years old and probably bad. A bad cell will cause the salt to read low.

It looks like the salt system is not turning on because the system thinks that the salinity is too low.

The salinity might actually be too low or the cell might be bad or a combination of both.

Check the pool salinity independently with a good test kit like the K-1766.

Go to default menu and press the ">" to see what that shows.
James-
Thanks for the help. Just to clarify, the SWG has not been in use for some time (years?). The owner gave up on it and went back to chlorine, I just took over a couple days ago. An inspector confirmed the cell needs replacement. Should I still proceed with your instructions? Cheers
 

dustindb

Active member
Aug 2, 2017
32
TX
Yes, check the numbers.

Also, check the actual salinity with a good test kit like the K-1766.
I'm trying to track down a salt test kit locally but striking out, might have to order one. Here are the other numbers:

+25.5V
+2.56A
92 F
700ppm

-27.07V
-1.72A
92F
300ppm

Then it says chlorinator off, check salt level
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
20,343
Ok, now you need an accurate measure of the salinity.

Once you get the salinity to about 3,200 ppm, redo the tests.

If the box salinity readouts are more than 800 ppm below actual salinity, then the cell is bad.

TFTestkits.net
 

chiefwej

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 12, 2011
3,506
Tucson
If you can't find a salt test, you may have to (gasp) have a pool store do a salt test. Not ideal but better than nothing.
 

dustindb

Active member
Aug 2, 2017
32
TX
I am trying to replace the t-cell and when I start to unscrew it from the union, water is continuously spewing out. I shut off the pump, power, and relieved filter pressure, I'm not sure what I'm missing.

Will my CYA naturally increase when I add salt? Right now it is about 30ppm
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
18,765
Bedford, TX
D,

I would assume that the filter has water in it that is higher then where the cell is. Or, depending on your layout, the cell could be lower than your pool surface.

With the pump out, gravity is the only thing that will move the water.

I once cut a pipe below the level of the pool and it took half an hour for the water to quit draining. It did not look lower, but it sure was...

CYA will never naturally increase. You have to add it.. I would not initially add any yet.. Get your SWCG running and make sure everything works first.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

chiefwej

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 12, 2011
3,506
Tucson
To limit the amount of water that will drain when you uncouple the t-cell, shut down the pump, open the air vent on the top of your filter, than wait 10 min or more for it to drain down before uncoupling the cell.
 

dustindb

Active member
Aug 2, 2017
32
TX
Ok I'm almost there. Salinity is up and cell installed. I'm just waiting for the FC to drift down a bit. TFP is recommending 4-6 FC but the aqualogic manual recommends 1-3 FC. I plan to go with the manual unless there's a compelling reason otherwise. Also, even before the SWG, my ph has been rising very steadily, I'm adding lots of MA. Maybe I should introduce some borate?
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
18,765
Bedford, TX
Ok I'm almost there. Salinity is up and cell installed. I'm just waiting for the FC to drift down a bit. TFP is recommending 4-6 FC but the aqualogic manual recommends 1-3 FC. I plan to go with the manual unless there's a compelling reason otherwise. Also, even before the SWG, my ph has been rising very steadily, I'm adding lots of MA. Maybe I should introduce some borate?
Dustin,

You either want algae or not... If you follow the 1-3 FC recommendation you should just plant a sign in your front yard saying.. "Algae party this weekend"... :p

If you want a clean, clear and sanitized pool you have to follow the TFP numbers... See this chart. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

Up to you, but I'm personally not much of a "party" person.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

xyz

Gold Supporter
Sep 8, 2016
641
Escondido/CA
I was wondering who and how this question would be answered. Nice Jim!

it is surprising how badly I wanted to kee FC too low until I became TFD'ed (can that be a verb?) ;-).
 

dustindb

Active member
Aug 2, 2017
32
TX
Dustin,

You either want algae or not... If you follow the 1-3 FC recommendation you should just plant a sign in your front yard saying.. "Algae party this weekend"... :p

If you want a clean, clear and sanitized pool you have to follow the TFP numbers... See this chart. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

Up to you, but I'm personally not much of a "party" person.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Hmmm not my kind of party! Lastly, the diagnostics read 4000 salt ppm, while the taylor test shows 3000ish. Any problems with that?
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
18,765
Bedford, TX
dustin,

The important thing is making sure the cell believes it has the proper amount of salt, otherwise it will not work. The saying goes something like,... "A happy cell is a happy pool"... :p

I only have experience with Pentair salt cells, which cannot be calibrated.. I'd check your manual, as some cells have a way to calibrate the salt readings..

Thanks,

Jim R.