New pool owner, some questions about my setup

[natedawg]

EDIT: just realized I put this under the water chemistry forum, if it could be moved to the appropriate one would appreciate that!

Hey all!

New pool owner here, trying to get a handle on everything and get the pool balanced in a position to maintain.

Location: Bay Area, CA
Pool: 20k gallons
Spillover Spa: 700 gallons

From what I can tell, I have the following equipment:

• Controller: Easytouch with Screenlogic
• Pump: Intelliflo VS Pump 354605.E
• Booster/Cleaner Pump: Pentair Boost-Rite LA-MS05
• Filter: Sta-Rite PLM300
• Heater: Pentair SR400NA
• Air Blower: Air Supply 23E1
• SWG: Intellichlor IC40
• Valves:
  • Return: Jandy valve that looks to control return from pool/spa
  • Supply: Jandy valve that looks to control supply to pool/spa
• Auto filler: Looks like the tank on a toilet but in ground, just fills up and connects to some jets housings when the float gets low

Here is a picture of the pool (sorry for the really bad photo lol):


Here is a picture of the whole setup:



Now a whole bunch of questions:
1. Right now the pool/spa are unheated, I was reading that the heater should not be run for water temperatures less than 68F, but that it is ok on startup. If I am able to isolate the spa, is it ok to run the heater occasionally to get the Spa up to temp (100 something)?


2. Looks like I have a few leaks. Attaching pictures here for reference.
This is on the output from the filter housing as it goes towards to heater. It looks like it is leaking from the actual filter housing, but it could be leaking from the connection with the pvc pipe, I just couldn't get around it to tell.


And then this is on the heater, maybe a simpler fix than the filter leak above?



3. It seems like when I run the Pool and Spa functions on ScreenLogic I still get the spillover from the Spa. When I run the cleaner it doesn't look like I get any spillover though.

Looking in SLConfig, it looks like my valves are unassigned? I'm assuming I need to assign each of them? I'm not really sure how to assign them to a circuit though, as it looks like they would only isolate return/supply from the pool/spa?

Any advice on how to configure this so I can isolate the spa, etc...

Here are some of my configs:

 

[Jimrahbe]

Looking in SLConfig, it looks like my valves are unassigned?

Nate,

Your valves are just fine.. You only have two valves and they are connected to the Intake and Return valves connections.. If you had additional valves, they would be connected to the A or B valve connections and would need to be 'assigned'...

Show me your schedules...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[natedawg]

Here are the schedules I have right now.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Nate,

Thanks for the schedules...

Your SWCG will only work when you are in the Pool mode or the Spa mode..

Based on your current schedule, this means you are only running the cell 3.5 hours a day. Even if you have the cell set to 100% output, that means the cell can only add about 1.16 ppm of FC (Chlorine) per day.. max...

I am amazed that you do not have algae, as most pools consume about 3 ppm of FC per day... and that assumes your cell is set to 100%, which I doubt.

What output is your IC40 set to produce when in the Pool mode? And when in the SPA mode??

I have to assume that you are adding chlorine some other way.. Like adding 'Shock' once a week, or floating chlorine tablets or ??? Please tell us how you are currently sanitizing your pool..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[natedawg]

I just closed on this house last week, I have added liquid chlorine as the water temps are currently too low for the SWG to operate.

The pool unfortunately did have some algae when we closed, I shocked the pool (~10ppm) and have been brushing and trying to clear it. I did set the schedules to run longer (12 hours at 50% output), but with the water temps dropping and the issues I stated above with heating, I haven't had the SWG running yet.

Currently also battling with high pH which I believe is a result of the spillover happening when running in both pool and spa modes, in addition to spillover. I really need the spillover to only function when in spillover mode, which is why I was asking about the valve setup. Looks like one of the valves isn’t turning when I put it in spa mode. Only the supply/jet valve is turning but not the filter/suction one.

Could it be the valve went bad?

My levels I have tested so far:

• Salt: 4600 ppm (on the very high end, considering draining some)
• FC: Currently 10 as of yesterday
• pH: 8.2+ (added a whole gallon of muriatic yesterday in a few doses will re-test today)
• CYA: 0

 

[natedawg]

Looks like the switch on the spa valve was turned off, so got that fixed at least. No more spillover in spa mode!

 

[Jimrahbe]

Nate,

Based upon your schedule, the spa should only spillover into your pool 1/2 an hour per day...

In the Pool mode, water should be sucked from the pool and only sent back to the pool. Should not be any spillover

In the Spa mode, water should be sucked from the Spa and only sent back to the Spa. Should not be any spillover..

(When switching between the pool mode and spa mode, both actuators should rotate about 180 degrees..)

When in the Spillover mode, water should be sucked from the pool and sent back to the spa..

Run some tests and tell me how the actuators work.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[natedawg]

Yes so I ran some additional tests while there, everything is as you say now.

There was a small switch on the valve for the filter grates on the bottom of the pool and spa, that was turned off. Once I turned it on the actuators ran and that valve started turning like it should have been.

Appreciate the help with this.

re: SWG runtime
Since the pool is too cold right now, I'll be using liquid chlorine for the time being. Shouldn't be a huge loss since the water is cold and the sun is lower right now. I'll start adding CYA soon to help buffer it as well.

re: High Salt
Would you recommend draining the pool a bit to bring the salt down from 4400-4600 where it is at now?

re: Heating the Spa in the winter
Is it ok to run the SR400NA when the water is cold as long as I let it heat the spa to temp (100+) and don't run cold water through it anytime soon after?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Nate,

Technically, your IC40 should run until the water temp gets to about 52 degrees... I have found it gets iffy once the water temp gets below 55 degrees.

The only light that will be on the IC40, when it goes into the winter mode is the 'Cold Water' light.

It can't hurt to drain some water to get the salt level down.. If you get a lot of rain in your area, it should drop on its own over the winter.

I don't have a heater and don't really know the answer to your heater question. Let's see if @1poolman1 has any inputs..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Or maybe @JamesW can help with your heater questions..

Jim R.

 

[1poolman1]

Nate,

Technically, your IC40 should run until the water temp gets to about 52 degrees... I have found it gets iffy once the water temp gets below 55 degrees.

The only light that will be on the IC40, when it goes into the winter mode is the 'Cold Water' light.

It can't hurt to drain some water to get the salt level down.. If you get a lot of rain in your area, it should drop on its own over the winter.

I don't have a heater and don't really know the answer to your heater question. Let's see if @1poolman1 has any inputs..

Thanks,

Jim R.

That drip at the heater is a bad O ring. A simple fix is to wrap the plug with Teflon tape (about 3 wraps) and a coat of silicone sealant. Should stop the drip. Obviously turn the pump off.

 

[natedawg]

That drip at the heater is a bad O ring. A simple fix is to wrap the plug with Teflon tape (about 3 wraps) and a coat of silicone sealant. Should stop the drip. Obviously turn the pump off.

Thanks, will give this a shot!