New pool owner—need valve and spa help
- Thread starter pollardfamily10
- Start date
The picture was the way it was when we moved in but the returns are open. Question on the drains and skimmer. There are labels on the pump for spa main drain and spa skimmer as well as pool skimmer and pool MD. Is it best to keep the spa and skimmer off to focus on the pool or what would the best setup be for these? Im assuming the pool skimmer goes to both skimmers on the pool since we have three, counting the spa skimmer. I tried to post pictures in reply to another In this thread since I gather that we have a wonky setup, it’s hard to figure out. I truly appreciate all the help. I can take more pictures but it’s currently storming. We’ve gotten use from the pool but keeping it from turning teal/green or losing water seems to be battles.
Also, on the return side, we do have extra ports for the Polaris vacuum in the pool so I know one works for that but the wording on the pipes is faded so I don’t know the best practice-open to both or only one? This house and pool
Was quite neglected so it’s a win to even get where we are
Can you take a new photo of the suction side and write on the photo which pipe is spa skimmer and drain, and which pipes are pool skimmer(s) and main drain? That would help us tell you which should be partial open or fully closed, etc.
Your pool and spa are very unique. I don’t think I have seen one where a spa overflows onto the step then goes under the walkway to flow into the pool. I would not call it wonky.
With regard to your Polaris cleaner, the suction to the booster pump is coming from the return pipe - appears to be connected underground. Then the return to the pool is a dedicated line which is what you see going underground from the exit of the booster pump.
Not sure how recent your photos are of your pool but what are the test results? Can you see the bottom as it looks pretty green.
What is your plan to remove the algae?
Yes, I will get a picture tomorrow morning and label. The pictures were when we first filled and it’s since been very clear and went quickly back to green. The levels will be great for a short time and then back to green in no time. We did use stabilizer when they were good. We’ve had a lot of rain so we just shocked it after the storms and are hoping that helps.
OK. Look forward to seeing the pictures.
With regard to the algae, the shock treatment is a temporary fix. Once we understand the valve set up, we then need to move to doing a
SLAM Process. That is the only way to rid your pool of algae. You need to be prepared to purchase a lot of liquid chlorine. How many gallons is your pool?
This all started out to help identify valves and we are nearly there once we see the pictures with the pipe marked. Now we need to make your water crystal clear. Did you see the contributions from all the members in this months contest on water clarity? It is the first post on the New Content under forums. We can get you there.
Also do you have a proper test kit? You will need one for the SLAM.
Test Kits Compared
I will look at the new post. After shocking, we can see bottom fine but it’s hazy. I would like to SLAM. In full honesty, waiting until payday because setup to this point has been a fortune. It’s 35,000 gallons. We have both test strips and a set with number 1-5 drops.
Attaching pictures of overall (skimmer placement) and valves you asked for.
Attachments
Thanks for pictures. I would write that info directly on the pipes or if you have a label maker because now that it is figured out.
I would not purchase anymore granular shock but use what you have now. When you are ready to get rid of that algae, you will need to switch to only LC because it is faster to mix.
We can walk you through the SLAM process once you are ready. Unfortunately you will need a better test kit then using test strips and not sure what a set with numbers 1-5 drops will actually test. The main thing needed for SLAM is to test your pH at the start, and CYA so we know what FC to target, then it is all testing of Free Chlorine but the kit has to be a FAS/DPD to test above 10ppm of FC. See
Test Kits Compared
I would not purchase anymore granular shock but use what you have now. When you are ready to get rid of that algae, you will need to switch to only LC because it is faster to mix.
We can walk you through the SLAM process once you are ready. Unfortunately you will need a better test kit then using test strips and not sure what a set with numbers 1-5 drops will actually test. The main thing needed for SLAM is to test your pH at the start, and CYA so we know what FC to target, then it is all testing of Free Chlorine but the kit has to be a FAS/DPD to test above 10ppm of FC. See
Test Kits Compared
We are going to start the SLAM process tonight. I’ve read this page’s info about it but I’m a little anxious. Fingers crossed. In 35,000 with basically nothing registering on test kit for chlorine, how much LC would you recommend up front?
We need to know your CYA level. That will dictate what your target FC will be for SLAM.
For 35k gals, 1 gal of LC (10%) will raise your FC level by 2.9ppm. So if your CYA is 40 (for discussion purposes), the target SLAM level is 16ppm - so you would need 5.5gals of LC just to get to 16ppm (assuming you have zero FC now). Then you need to maintain that FC level by testing every 3-4 hours. So you may lose 2ppm in 4 hrs (initially) so that is 3/4 of a gal. every 4 hrs. So you could go through another 5 gallons of LC after you ramp up to the initial FC level for SLAM. So that is 11 gals in the first full day. It could be less, we don't know how much algae you have and how quickly it be used up in killing algae.
Hope this gives you a starting point. It seems overwhelming but many people of followed the process and have done great. It does take some patience. It will be a slow start but it will improve as time progresses and every pool is different so just roll with it.