New pool owner, first post, just getting started

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A few more questions in follow-up:
1. Can I dial back the pump/filter to run less than 24/7 now? Suggested hours?
2. Estimates for how long it will take to drop the FC level to the original SLAM target of 28? To the CYA target of 8?

For reference, forecast here for next few days (condition and high temp, if temp even matters for anything but my kids dying to get in):
Today: sunny, 79
Sat: cloudy/rain, 62
Sun: cloudy/rain, 71
Mon: cloudy/rain, 68
Tues: cloudy/rain, 76
Wed: sunny, 85
 
1. Can I dial back the pump/filter to run less than 24/7 now? Suggested hours?
Click to expand...
Yes, start at about 8 hours and adjust up or down from there as needed
2. Estimates for how long it will take to drop the FC level to the original SLAM target of 28? To the CYA target of 8?
Click to expand...
Hard to tell. Depends on the amount of sunlight available. Couple days maybe.
 
Very short SLAM! Well done and great to have it done, huh? I agree a couple days to get down to 28, likely quite a few days to get down to 8. The cloudy weather you mentioned will slow the drop. A couple of sunny days will knock it down quicker and when you decide to start swimming in it, bather load will take it down.

To get the kids in quicker, you can do another drain/refill (which also solves CYA which is still higher than needed if I recall correctly). If it rains a lot, draining and dilution is pretty much free. While FC is safe for swimmers up to shock level (28 in this case), the caution on jumping in at the tail end of a SLAM is the low pH, which can cause itchy skin and sore eyes. It doesn't bother me personally, but some people it does. The grandies at our place saw me in there and wanted in right after a SLAM while pH was still low, so I got them to shower after, and they never mentioned any itchiness or sore eyes. Some swim wear can be harmed by the higher FC, so take that in the shower as well.

So you can relax about pool chemicals for a while! :) Time to get happy with the Polaris, and when you get down to FC 10-12, pH can be checked. If I remember right, pH was around 7.2 before the SLAM and should be raised for skin and eye comfort and to protect the heater. You may be wondering if the SLAM was needed with it going that fast, but the fact you could see algae growing on the steps and walls is plenty of reason to SLAM. If it were me, I'd do the OCLT tonight as well, especially considering that the FC test has a +/- error level, just for peace of mind.

You might find this useful... Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
 
No need to get kids in quicker. Water is 60 degrees! Warming up next week, but I will fire up the heater for Memorial Day weekend if needed. I think the timing is working out perfectly.

I'll read the pump run time article. Thanks.

I asked for help for the Polaris 360 on the cleaners board, but no responses so far. Basically, it just keeps floating, and it tends to be nose down when on the ground. Any suggestions on how I can quickly and inexpensively get it to work, I'd appreciate it. Otherwise, I will stick with manual vacuum, and, if so compelled, get a robot (down the road).
 
Success! Kids jumped in the cold water today. Thanks to you all for helping me get to this point!! Completely accurate to say I couldn't have done it without all of you.

One question for today on the pressure in my DE filter. When the pool guys set it up for me, he said the the baseline pressure was 16 and to backwash and replace DE when it when 8-10 higher. Pool was opened to cold, clear water but algae along top step and waterline of the pool. The day after open, pressure was 25, so I backwashed and replaced the DE, and the pressure was back to 15. Success!

Since then, the pressure has fluctuated. From 15 -> 21 -> 17 -> 19 -> 20 -> 16. It is that very solid 16 today.

During that time, many things happened:
-two separate drain and fills (5k and 8k gallons) using waste (not backwash or rinse)
-lots of vacuuming and brushing
-one-night SLAM

Through all this, is it really possible that the filter pressure is really still 16? What to make of the fluctuations? All the skimmers are clear (I guess I should check the pump basket, but last I looked, that was clear, too). The water has been clear the whole time, but I vacuumed up a decent amount of debris. Should I go ahead and backwash anyway?
 
So glad you made your deadline!! Regarding the filter, I would break it down and recharge just so I knew it was right. Pretty easy to get a manual online if you don't have one already. I think you mentioned the pool service adding DE after a backwash? This leads to unknowns which you can fairly easily eliminate. Check out this thread and read the bit on DE filters. Pool School - Pool Filter Comparison

I used to get a bit of fluctuation with lots of activity like vacuuming, cleaning pump basket, etc. It would be high for an hour or so, but then settle back down. I've yet to figure out why it happens though.

Great that you've got a TFP start to the season! Is the rest of the chemistry balanced now, in good shape for the heater? And by the way, thanks for becoming a supporter!!
 

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Just read the link on DE filters. Yikes! Didn't know that the DE filter would need to be taken apart regularly. To the pool store's credit (I know, I know), the filter grids were cleaned and stored at their place off season. They looked (to my untrained eye) pristine clean when he reinstalled them at opening. I honestly don't have the capacity to learn and mess with this now. Eventually. As long as the pool stays in great shape. If it ever gets near 20, I will probably just do another backwash. We'll see.

FYI, chemistry today (after two days to lots of sun and lots of swimming):
pH 7.5
FC 8
CC 0
TC 8
CYA 70
TA 160
CH 300

One question on the chemistry. With a CYA of 70, my target FC is 8 with a minimum of 5. Is that target of 8 BEFORE or AFTER a sunny day full of swimming? Any harm or downside for me to cheat a bit and go a little beyond the target, whether it's to get ahead of a sunny, high-use day or to skip a day of adding bleach?

Heater is not working. Bummer, but the sun has brought the temperature to a very usable 80 degrees. It was working at opening, but now it shows an SNS error. From Googling (water temperature clearly in range), it sounds like I need to call the pool store back out to look at it...
 
No harm at all going over a bit on FC. You're naked-swimmer-safe up to SLAM level for your CYA level. Going too far beyond target FC of 8 will raise your total chlorine consumption, so it's a balance between chlorine consumption and convenience. For me at CYA 70 and no SWG, my goal would be never falling below 5 at any time of day under any circumstances. So I might run 8-12. The minimum you shoot for has to cover your likely consumption until the next addition of chlorinating liquid. For example, if I knew I might miss for two days, and the sun would be pounding down, swimmers expected, etc. I'd go to 16. If I knew I could test and add every morning, I would take it to 10 each time.

SNS = sensor. Could be any of them (limit switches for example). Try shutting off the power for a few minutes, then re-start. Maybe just needs a reset. Otherwise needs more HeaterFixerPerson horsepower than I've got!
 
Heater fixed today. The sensor just had to be replaced.

If anyone is still following, some odd test readings today.

Before today, water has been pretty consistently for the last week+:
pH 7.5
FC >6
CC 0
CYA 70
TA 180 -> 130 -> 160 (nothing added to change pH or TA)
CH 300

It has been pretty sunny and warm. Got some rain overnight, and I'm sure pool guy ran the heater for a few minutes to make sure everything was fine after changing the sensor. After that, here are the new results:
pH 7.8
FC 13 (added 2 gallons of 8.25% last night with a FC of 6.5)
CC 0
CYA 80
TA 120
CH 250

Questions/observations:
pH: I guess 7.8 is still within target, and not surprising that it crept up with the high TA, right? I have muriatic acid ready in case it keeps going up.
TA: Surprised it dropped to 120 without having done anything. Is this expected?
CYA: fairly confident of this 80, but depressing its 80 and not 60. I was pretty confident of the 70 readings, too. I was thinking with some splash out and rain, it would be lower. Not a big deal, I guess, as the target levels are not that different, but I may be planning another partial drain and fill when we won't be using the pool for a few days (just for temperature).
CH: this is still a funny test for me to do with the drop sizes, but surprised it dropped from 300 to 250.

Any comments? I am planning to basically recheck everything in a few days before reacting to any of this (beyond bleach).
 
Richard320 said:
If you have hard water and added any to the pool, there's your rising pH and TA.
Click to expand...

That's the thing though: I have not added anything to the pool except bleach. No drain and fills. Nothing else. Some rain. Some running through a heater. That's it. I am still not 100% confident in my use of the TF-100, so that's why I will give it another whirl in a couple of days and see where I am at before reacting, adding nothing except bleach until then.
 
Just to double-check, there's a few testing tips in case one of them helps... bottom of the meniscus at the measurement line, holding the bottle vertical, swirling between each drop, gently squeezing and putting the drops in slowly i.e. not more than one per second (so the drop fully forms), wiping the tip of the bottle between drops to eliminate static, triple-rinsing test tube between samples.
 
I would drop the pH from 7.8 to 7.6 if it were me. The CYA is liveable now that you have the SLAM behind you. It will come down over a period of time, or if it doesn't cost much, the drain/refill is fine too. No real problem either way as long as you follow the FC/CYA chart for bare minimum and target. Cheers.
 
needsajet said:
Just to double-check, there's a few testing tips in case one of them helps... bottom of the meniscus at the measurement line, holding the bottle vertical, swirling between each drop, gently squeezing and putting the drops in slowly i.e. not more than one per second (so the drop fully forms), wiping the tip of the bottle between drops to eliminate static, triple-rinsing test tube between samples.
Click to expand...

Very helpful. No problems with meniscus and level, using a speed stir. Also very OCD on rinsing.

Drop size. Never thought of that. Is the goal a nice big, plump drop?

Also on wiping tip between drops, while I know the instructions state that (specifically and only for TA, though), has important is this? None of the videos they put out show that being done.

- - - Updated - - -

needsajet said:
I would drop the pH from 7.8 to 7.6 if it were me. The CYA is liveable now that you have the SLAM behind you. It will come down over a period of time, or if it doesn't cost much, the drain/refill is fine too. No real problem either way as long as you follow the FC/CYA chart for bare minimum and target. Cheers.
Click to expand...

Why? Isn't 7.8 within range? I thought target is 7.5-7.8.
 
I don't wipe the tip and it seems OK, but some people find this helps. Just hoping to rule out something easy.

pH wise... just what I would do, with a bit of OCD as well :). At 7.8 you're edging up toward scaly water at TA 120 and there's some doubt on the TA number - maybe higher. Plus you already have the MA. But yep, fine to leave it there.
 

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