New pool owner chemistry is way out of range need some help

[Gostephen]

I bought a house with a in ground pool
Pool guy has been "maintaining" it. (Untill I can learn all this)
I just got a test kit today and tested it my results are
Fc 12.
Cc 0
Ch 110
Cya 85
Ta 140
Ph false reading due to high chlorine (per test kit manual)

I have 2 chlorine floaters (per pool guy)

I'm not even sure where to start
I know I need to order something to get calcium hardness up
Pool has some stains that I believe are metal stains (low priority to me right now)
Can't do any water changes till winter.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! AT this time, I would remove those floaters/tabs. Each tab increases your CYA which is already elevated. So remove the floaters and keep the FC balanced to a CYA of 90 as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to avoid algae. Use liquid chlorine/regular bleach to increase FC when needed.

For the CH, and because usually most AZ water is hard, increase only to the minimum required on the Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool page. Make sure to use the PoolMath tool. Enter all of your numbers and look at the row for "CSI" and try to keep it at neutral of slightly below. The combination of CH, TA, pH, and water temp control your CSI to prevent scale or plaster erosion.

Hope that helps get you started.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

To add to what Pat suggested -- test your fill water for CH and TA. In Arizona sometimes those values drive what you do for pool water chemistry management.

 

[Gostephen]

I removed the floaters
And picked up some liquid chlorine

Welcome to the forum!

To add to what Pat suggested -- test your fill water for CH and TA. In Arizona sometimes those values drive what you do for pool water chemistry management.

So I pulled the water analysts from when I bought the house calcium hardness was 228 and ph was 8.4 why would my calcium be so low when the supply is within specs

 

[Texas Splash]

would my calcium be so low when the supply is within specs

Valid question. My guess is the CH test of your supply water may be in question. Ch won't just drop unless there is a major change of water AND the replacement water is softer. But you just got your test kit today, so now you should be on track with accurate results. The only other thing to consider since your kit is new ..... was your own CH test of 110 accurate? You can certainly take another look at the Calcium Hardness - Trouble Free Pool page to ensure everything matches-up: water sample size with number of each drops. Also make sure the final test result is a light baby blue color and not purple or you will stop too soon. I use the 10ML water sample size so that each drop of the R-0012 equals 25ppm. So I look for a final result in 25-increment numbers.

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

So I pulled the water analysts from when I bought the house calcium hardness was 228 and ph was 8.4 why would my calcium be so low when the supply is within specs

Are you sure that 228 was in units of ppm? And was calcium hardness rather than total hardness? Water agencies generally report total hardness in “grains”. I suggest you test your fill water yourself.

 

[an1vrsy]

Your FC 12 ppm is in the upper range of your CYA 90, always round up to whole numbers. You are correct that testing pH isn't viable with FC above 10 ppm. When you test your FC values, if/when it has dropped to 9.5 ppm then test pH. You will then know what your pH is and dose pH back into the 7's with muriatic acid.