New pool owner, can’t get the pool clear!

[Goodfight10]

Hi guys,

I am a recent homeowner that came with an inground pool. I have been using the forums to try my best to get a hold of this. I am from NY and had paid someone to open the pool for me this past weekend and since then I have been doing everything else.

The pool is surprisingly blue when I opened it, however, I can’t get it clear. I attached the photos of the pool and the water test from the pool store today (the second one). It’s been 2 days, 4 bags of shock, and 5 pounds of D.E.

After this test I shocked it with 2 bags of shock and added 2 chlorine tabs into my chlorinater.

Yesterday I backwashed the filter and added 5 pounds of D.E. to the skimmer. Today I noticed that when the pool is on “filter” for the first minute or two the return jets are pretty powerful and eventually die down and get a lot less powerful. If I have the setting to “recirculate” the jets stay strong and don’t change. I also have a Polaris 380 vacuum connected on the other side of the pool.

I leave my filter on for 8 hours a day (new homeowner, kind of nervous about first electric bill with pump on).

I will also add a photo of my old equipment set up.

I would love advice from you guys vs. Leslie’s as they try and sell me the clarifier and a ton of other stuff every time I go in there. Thank you!!

 

[Texas Splash]

GF10, welcome! Nice pool. You have algae, that's why it's cloudy and that's why the filter pressure goes up quickly and return jet water flow goes down. You need to follow our SLAM Process process. To do that, you need a TF-100 (link below). Don't believe pool store testing as it's often flawed. A Taylor K-2006C can work as well, be I recommend the TF-100. Test Kits Compared Testing your own water and following the SLAM process, you'll have that water clear in good time.

Also see our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and let us know if you have any other questions.

 

[Goodfight10]

GF10, welcome! Nice pool. You have algae, that's why it's cloudy and that's why the filter pressure goes up quickly and return jet water flow goes down. You need to follow our SLAM Process process. To do that, you need a TF-100 (link below). Don't believe pool store testing as it's often flawed. A Taylor K-2006C can work as well, be I recommend the TF-100. Test Kits Compared Testing your own water and following the SLAM process, you'll have that water clear in good time.

Also see our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and let us know if you have any other questions.

Great, thank you.

On another note, I see that bleach is recommended as opposed to shock here. Is that because of the price? Also, Do you suggest I purchase all chemicals in bulk online for the season?

One more question, judging by the photos of the equipment, how does the set up look to you? Thanks.

 

[Texas Splash]

Bleach (regular and never Clorox brands, splashless or scented of any kind), is the same as what is marketed as pool chlorine. So your'e good there. "Shocks" as they are sold by the pool store usually have side effects like stabilizer or calcium which can be overwhelming for some pools. Bleach is usually cheaper and readily available. Plus easy to dispense when you know how much to add using our PoolMath tool.

No need to buy anything in bulk really, although for this SLAM Process you will need a fair amount of bleach - perhaps 6-8 gallons for now I would estimate. You will need stabilizer to increase the CYA to a minimum "30", and at some point probably some muriatic acid to lower your pH is it gets too high. MA is strong and corrosive, so always store it away form everything else, preferably outdoors in a secure plaster container or something. Never add MA and bleach to the exact same area at the exact same time.

 

[Texas Splash]

But I wouldn't try to adjust things too much until you get the proper test kit. I have BIG suspicions about those store tests above, and we don't want you to waste time & money on their testing. With the proper test kit noted above, you'll in MUCH better shape. For now, simply add 1/2 to a full gallon of bleach to the pool each day until the proper test kit arrives.

 

[Goodfight10]

Bleach (regular and never Clorox brands, splashless or scented of any kind), is the same as what is marketed as pool chlorine. So your'e good there. "Shocks" as they are sold by the pool store usually have side effects like stabilizer or calcium which can be overwhelming for some pools. Bleach is usually cheaper and readily available. Plus easy to dispense when you know how much to add using our PoolMath tool.

No need to buy anything in bulk really, although for this SLAM Process you will need a fair amount of bleach - perhaps 6-8 gallons for now I would estimate. You will need stabilizer to increase the CYA to a minimum "30", and at some point probably some muriatic acid to lower your pH is it gets too high. MA is strong and corrosive, so always store it away form everything else, preferably outdoors in a secure plaster container or something. Never add MA and bleach to the exact same area at the exact same time.

Got it, thank you for the detailed response. So, If I am using bleach in place of chlorine, do I just not put anything in the chlorinator ever again?

 

[Texas Splash]

Your equipment looks fairly typically really. I see two pumps, one for the main water suction to the filter (with the clear lid) and the other for a dedicated cleaner. You appear to have a DE filter with a multiport valve. We can help you with all of that later. Just make sure to try and update your signature when you can.

 

[Texas Splash]

So, If I am using bleach in place of chlorine, do I just not put anything in the chlorinator ever again?

The inline chlorinator holds tabs/pucks. They are fine to use on a short-term basis and only when you as the pool owner know what your CYA (stabilizer) level is. That's because those tabs hold a good amount of stabilizer, and once it gets too high, you have to exchange water. The pool store won't tell you that when they're selling you a bucket of tabs for $100. So for now, just leave it empty. It's always there if you go on vacation or something.

 

[Texas Splash]

By the way, that CYA test is one very common test the pool store performs incorrectly. Another big reason why you'll want your own test kit before doing anything.

 

[Goodfight10]

Great to know, thank you my friend.

 

[Goodfight10]

Alright. So, while I wait for a new test kit, I went to my local pool store today and picked up 4 gallons of “liquid shock” and ended up getting a “clarifier”. I dumped 2.5 bottles of liquid shock around pool (after scrubbing walls and floor) and 16 ounces of clarifier and let the pump run.

I also backwashed it a bunch of times to try and get the return jets to clean out, which they did, but still aren’t as powerful as it in recirculate. And added 4lbs (of a protein powder, 1lb jug) of D.E. to the skimmers. My pool is around 33,000 gallons.

Now, I am at work and the pump is off. I had my wife take a picture of the pool and she sent me these pictures. It has a lot bubbles and now has a film at the top. I’m afraid I’m moving in the opposite direction here.

Please help, I’m really starting to regret buying a house with an Inground pool. Is it possible it’s been so cloudy and cool that it’s affecting the clarity of the pool? Since I’ve opened it it’s been mostly rain, cool, and barely any sun.

 

[mknauss]

Without a proper test kit you should not be doing anything with this pool other than adding 5 ppm worth of FC using liquid chlorine each day until you get your test kit.
Clarifier is glue. You do not have a signature with your equipment but most likely your filter will be gummed up with it once your run your pump and will need to be deep cleaned or cartridges replaced.

 

[Goodfight10]

Without a proper test kit you should not be doing anything with this pool other than adding 5 ppm worth of FC using liquid chlorine each day until you get your test kit.
Clarifier is glue. You do not have a signature with your equipment but most likely your filter will be gummed up with it once your run your pump and will need to be deep cleaned or cartridges replaced.

Without a proper test kit you should not be doing anything with this pool other than adding 5 ppm worth of FC using liquid chlorine each day until you get your test kit.
Clarifier is glue. You do not have a signature with your equipment but most likely your filter will be gummed up with it once your run your pump and will need to be deep cleaned or cartridges replaced.

I’m not sure of the brand and models of my equipment but this is the only photo I have of it.

Yeah, while pouring the clarifier in I was definitely concerned with how thick it was but dissolved relatively quickly.

 

[mknauss]

There are labels on at least the pump and filter. Post them in a signature, along with pool type, volume, etc.

 

[Goodfight10]

There are labels on at least the pump and filter. Post them in a signature, along with pool type, volume, etc.

Done, does it seem correct? Thanks.

 

[mknauss]

Great start, The Jandy PHPU is a pump, not a filter right?

 

[Goodfight10]

Great start, The Jandy PHPU is a pump, not a filter right?

Yes, pump. I thought it was a “pump” for the filter. Sorry, really new to this world.

 

[mknauss]

It is a pump for the pool. The filter is there to screen out solids.

 

[Goodfight10]

It is a pump for the pool. The filter is there to screen out solids.

Gotcha. My new TF-2006c test kit will be here by Friday. What should I do until then? Any suggestions. Or just let the pump run 8hrs/day.

 

[splashpad]

Gotcha. My new TF-2006c test kit will be here by Friday. What should I do until then? Any suggestions. Or just let the pump run 8hrs/day.

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