NEw Pool is 30 days old and the SWG just was added

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GreenTerrorPool

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2017
167
PALM BEACH GARDENS, FL
SO I know there are new parameters for my water and I have all the test kits. My question is do I go directly now to measure what you need for a saltwater pool, or is there a transition period.

My pool guy put in 6 bags of salt to start me off and the SWG is reading 2800 since he put it in and still after 2 hrs. Im at 50%.

I just started to understand balancing of the water but now this!

thanks
GTP
 
I'd give it a day, 6 bags sounds about right though. I put 5.5 bags in a 15Kgal pool, and it is exactly 2800ppm.

GreenTerrorPool said:
SO I know there are new parameters for my water and I have all the test kits. My question is do I go directly now to measure what you need for a saltwater pool, or is there a transition period.

My pool guy put in 6 bags of salt to start me off and the SWG is reading 2800 since he put it in and still after 2 hrs. Im at 50%.

I just started to understand balancing of the water but now this!

thanks
GTP
Click to expand...
 
We usually advise folks to leave the SWG off for at least 24 hours after the salt has been added to allow for it to dissolve and mix well into the pool water. Also refer to the manual as to what the ideal salt level is, they do vary.

Have you a salt test kit? I personally believe it necessary as a double check against what the device says. Taylor's K-1766 is the one I recommend.

Otherwise... best thing to do is to have your water at the desired FC level using liquid chlorine, and then let the new device take over to maintain that level. If you test it in a day and your FC is higher than desired, turn down the % or the run time of your pump. If your FC level is too low you'll know to turn up the % or run time. I'd make sure you test daily for this first week to get the hang of things.

You're going to *love* that SWG!!

Yippee :flower:
 
GTP,

What Skippy said is important. Do not use your SWCG to get the FC from 0 to 7ppm... Raise the FC manually with Liquid Chlorine/Bleach and then let the SWCG keep it there.

Also, want to make sure you CYA is between 70 and 80... and I'd target an FC of 7... better to be slightly too high than too low...

You can see how much chlorine the SWCG is making by doing a "reverse" OCLT.. Test FC after sunset and then again before sunrise. The increase in FC is the amount of chorine generated in that overnight period. Obviously, the pump and SWCG need to be on for the test. I'd start with the SWCG % set at 50% and see what happens.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
So all was going fine but when my pump stopped all these red lights came on my SWG control panel. It is at 1400 says no flow (maybe cause pump is off) check salt light on inspect cell light is on
should i run the pump all night
sorry major newbie here

- - - Updated - - -

so let me re phrase that...the pump had a schdule stop time at 730 eastern time. So it cut off...then just now i went outside to check on things and saw all these red lights
 
Not sure how your system is set up but my SWG only comes on/off when the pump does. You can't turn the SWG on independently from the pump. The pump works off a timer.

You need to ask your pool builder how he has your SWG set up?
 
GTP,

Nothing is damaged. When the pump is off the SWCG should also be off. I would not be too worried about the salt reading unless everything is running.

I assume you know this, but here is how a SWCG works. The pump pulls saltwater from the pool and pushes it through the filter and then into the SWCG. As the Saltwater passes through the SWCG, an electrical voltage is applied which basically creates chlorine. The Chlorine and Saltwater then gets returned to your pool. ... So, obviously, if the pump is not on, the system shuts down and you start getting all kinds of warning lights.

In most systems, when the pump is not running the power to the SWCG is shut off to ensure that the SWCG is off.

Jim R.
 
1.So when my pool pump shuts down i still do have power to the control board of the SWG. Im assuming this is good. But yes it isnt "making chlkorine"
2. So why did it go from 2800 to 1400. I have re started the pump to see if it will start rising the 1400 number but it has not yet.
3. I only run my pump from 730 am to 10 30 am and 330pm to 730 pm. Will it continually go down from 2800 to 1400 with these pump times and then have to build up.

All my pool chemicals are in good range. I do need to get some more stabilizer now that I have an SWG
 

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So I just read the SWG directions for set up...none of which my contractor did. WE were supposed to put salt in pool an run pump for 24 hrs. The turn on the SWG. He told me to turn it on as soon as dump salt in the pool. Like i said it ran fine but when my pump went off as schuled. that is when we had issues. I dont know....Im going to bed. Turn pump and SWG off and will call contractor tommorw.
 
The contractor set it up for a T5 Cell instead of T15. He said that was the problem. He messed with a bunch of diagnostic settings and back working. We will see what happens when pump shuts off as the SWG and the Pump are wired seperately. He says it has to be this way per code. That seems weird that they wont work together. So every time the pump goes off, i will get red errors on the SWG unit until it resets when the pump comes on. this is all normal says the Contractor.
 
Don't sound right to me.

Sounds like the SWG is being cut off via the flow switch. It should cut off when the pump does... ie hooked up to the same power source. The flow switch is just an extra safety measure in case the pump fails.

There is risk of explosion if that SWG is running with no water flow through it. It needs its power cut at the same time as your water pump. Don't rely on the flow switch to do this as it will fail inevitably at some point.
 
GTP,

The Hayward manual says this...

"Input Power For stand alone operation: Wire the Aqua Rite to the LOAD SIDE of the filter pump timer. It is very important that the Aqua Rite is powered only when the pump is running."

Just what ant says above...

This assumes you do NOT have an automation system.

Jim R.
 
It is important that the power to the cell be shut off when the pump is off. Every year we have people report exploding SWG cells because the cell remains on and the pump turns off. The damage can be significant.
 
To Clarify here is how it is set up: When filter pump shuts off, On the SWG control board: Green Power Light is on No Flow Red Light is on. That is it. (the Light for "Generating" is blank not red or green)

When the pump comes back on , On the SWG control board: Green Power Light is on. and Generating green light is on.

I think this is ok. Sorry if I confused anyone. But the entire SWG unit does not power down when the pump does because it is wired separately. But id does STOP Generating

- - - Updated - - -

So I guess the big question is, is my Cell still powered when the pump is off per the info I have given above.
 
GTP,

I believe that your system is wired wrong and that your PB is using the flow switch as the primary safety device....

Will it work this way, probably so.. Is it correct, absolutely not.. Will it blow up, most likely not.. Could it blow up, most certainly it could..

Just look at the manual and you will see how it should be wired.

Jim R
 
I agree with Jim. Yes, there is still power to the cell. It is not generating because there is no flow. But, as soon as the flow sensor fails it will begin generating again even with the pump off. And that is when the risk of explosion is greatest.
 
GTP,

Do you have the manual for your SWCG system? If so, it should details exactly how it should be wired. If not do you have the actual P/N or model number of your system?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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