New Pool, Excited to Learn! Need to Install SWCG

[SimpleSyntax]

Hello All!

I'm excited to be a part of the TFP community. I've been lurking for a month or more as I've recently purchased my first home, and with it, my first pool. I'm the type to obsessively learn as much as I can when presented with a new challenge, so I dug through TFP for a few days, then ordered a TF-100, Borax/salt tests, and a CircuPool RJ-60 PLUS before I had moved into the house. Now I've lived here about a week and I'm gearing up to switch over to SWG.

A little about the pool - it's a 25,000 gal 18x38 vinyl lined pool built in the early '00s. It has a DE filter and a natural gas heater that was newly installed just before we moved in, replacing the original which had recently failed. The previous owners used a tablet feeder and a Nature 2, taking the water to the pool store every week or so and buying whatever they said. Obviously, I'm here and that's not the route I intend to follow.

So far, the levels actually look pretty good - chlorine and PH are in range, and CYA was at 70, Salt at 800 when I checked on Monday. I calculated the salt needed and plan to add it this weekend, I may go ahead and plumb/wire the SWG this weekend as well. I've continued to use the tablet feeder to keep chlorine up, but obviously I don't want to do that too long for the sake of not having to drain off water to bring down the CYA. I'm not sure how the CYA isn't higher, other than that we must get more rain in than evaporation out. (Located in Cincinnati)

The two main problem I'm facing currently is: how should I route plumbing/wiring for the SWG? Here's a picture of the layout:

It's a little hard to see, but the rear pipe exiting the heater runs down, under the supply, through the Nature2, then through the chlorine feeder and back to the return. I intend to remove the Nature2, and I thought about running that pipe up and over, instead of down, so that the SWG would be up higher where it was easy to see and work on. Something like this:

I also am trying to figure out the best way to tie into power - I'm considering using one of those additional holes in the side of the heater and wiring the SWG in there, is that an ok way to do it? Do I need one of those elbows that's attached to the wiring on the heater currently? (If so, what are they called?)

I appreciate any input! I'm very new to this, so there's likely a lot I have wrong. Thanks to everyone who helps make this community amazing!

Kidron

 

[zea3]

Hi, welcome to TFP! You don't want the Nature 2 system. It adds copper to the pool which can stain and cause light colored hair and surfaces to turn green. I would take out the Nature 2 and inline chlorinator and put the SWG in that space. Have the pool store test for copper, but don't buy anything. I can't help with the wiring so I'll ask some others to weigh in.
@ajw22, @jimmythegreek, @JamesW

 

[SimpleSyntax]

Thanks for the input! I was planning on taking the Nature 2 out for sure, as I shared those concerns - my wife has had green hair from other pools in the past. I had considered leaving the inline chlorinator in so that I could use up chlorine tabs that I have and add CYA that way. I suppose that's probably harder than it's worth - maybe I should just sell the remaining tabs and simplify the plumbing? It's probably easier to be exact with the CYA levels to add it directly.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

Get a floater for the tablets. The inline chlorinator is a threat to your heater. Whenever there is tablets in it, the pump should never be shut off. Even with a check valve between the chlorinator and heater, the heater is at risk.

 

[zea3]

You can hang on to the extra tabs. Just keep them in the original container and in a dry location. You can use them in a floater when you need a small CYA boost. They can also help you out if the SWG ever goes down. Tablets will last indefinitely when stored correctly. They do outgas so store them away from anything you don't want to rust.

 

[SimpleSyntax]

Wow, thanks, I did not know that about the inline chlorinator, I wonder if that's what killed the previous heater. I will certainly be removing it ASAP then. Should make the plumbing more simple too, so I like that plan - I will just use a floater as recommended for the future. What is the reason it causes damage? Any thoughts on the wiring?

 

[mknauss]

What is the reason it causes damage?

Trichlor is very acidic. When the pump is off, the acidic stew from the chlorinator can move through the plumbing for a number of reasons. Builders, etc install a check valve between the heater and chlorinator, or should. But without sufficient force on the check valve, fluid can leak by. And if the acidic stew gets to the heater, it eats away at the heat exchanger as it is copper.

Any thoughts on the wiring?

Post a picture of how your pump is wired, your timer, etc.

 

[ajw22]

I also am trying to figure out the best way to tie into power - I'm considering using one of those additional holes in the side of the heater and wiring the SWG in there, is that an ok way to do it? Do I need one of those elbows that's attached to the wiring on the heater currently? (If so, what are they called?)

What SWG are you considering?

You don't want to wire the SWG into the heater.

The SWG needs to be wired into the same power line that controls your pump.

What pump do you have and show us where the pump electrical line goes to.

 

[SimpleSyntax]

Ah, that makes sense. I'm not positive exactly what I'm looking at, but I don't see anything that looks like a check valve currently. The pool has been opened for about a month with tabs and the pump running 12 hrs a day, hopefully that hasn't caused too much damage already. Here are pictures of the pump/heater wiring and the timer, which is indoors next to the panel.

I know people say to run the pump 24 hrs after adding salt before turning on the SWCG system. Does that mean I should wait to install the system until after adding the salt?

 

[SimpleSyntax]

The pump is a Hayward 1.5 HP. I believe the heater is wired on the same circuit as the pump, which is why I considered using the heater as the box to tie in since I'm not sure there is room where the pump switch is. The pool is 25,000 gal and I purchased a CircuPool RJ-60 PLUS. I'll go update my signature now, sorry.

 

[ajw22]

Remove the Caution electrical shock protector and show us pics of the wiring in the timer. Step back and show a pic of where the conduits go into the timer.

Turn off the CB before removing the protector.

 

[ajw22]

I know people say to run the pump 24 hrs after adding salt before turning on the SWCG system. Does that mean I should wait to install the system until after adding the salt?

You should turn the SWG to OFF or 0% generation before adding salt and then wait 24 hours before turning it on.

 

[SimpleSyntax]

Ok, just wanted to make sure the risk to the SWG was related to it being powered on and not just being inline as the initial salt was added. Here are additional pictures. Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Your timer has just one circuit that it is controlling.

You have a junction box shown in this picture that your heater electrical line runs into. And the junction box looks like it has an outlet on the front.

Where does the power line from your pump run to?

Does the power line from your pump go into the junction box or directly to the timer?

Does the timer control power to the junction box?

Does the outlet on the front of the junction box have power when the timer is OFF?

 

[zea3]

The power for the pump is running into the back of the junction box. You can see it in post 9

 

[ajw22]

The power for the pump is running into the back of the junction box. You can see it in post 9

That junction box is probably crowded.

The easier wiring may be to run the SWG power to the timer LOAD screws.

Where is the timer placed relative to the pool equipment?

 

[SimpleSyntax]

Correct, the power for the pump and the heater are both running into the junction box. The front of the junction box is a switch, not an outlet, and the pump and heater are both controlled by that single switch so it's all one circuit. The junction box wiring runs underground to the house and into the basement where the breaker box and timer are.

 

[ajw22]

I can see where picking off the power for the SWG from the heater can be tempting. To me it is a bit of a hack that can come back to bite you down the road when you have problems with the heater.

The cleanest is to replace the junction box with a larger box, or place another box next to it, and connect the SWG into the wiring there.

You do not have a GFCI CB for the pump that current codes require and having a pump, SWG, and heater on the same circuit is not optimal.

Are you going to DIY or bring in an electrician to connect the SWG?

 

[SimpleSyntax]

I plan to do it myself, I'm fairly comfortable figuring these things out and I have a lot of family and friends who can advise...my father-in-law is an electrician. I agree, upgrading to a two gang box is the best solution. I'll also swap out the pump CB for a GFCI version and I noticed the pool light is also not on a GFCI breaker, so I will swap that as well if there is no GFCI outlet at the exterior junction box. I'm probably going to leave it all on one circuit as there should be plenty of overhead...it might not be ideal, but the SWG and heater shouldn't pull much compared to the pump.

As far as mounting the control panel for the SWG, do people ever wire them on a plug so that they can be brought inside during the winter, or is that just extra unnecessary work? I just want to make sure the panel is protected from the elements, maybe I should just build a small cover for it like I've seen on other threads.

 

[ajw22]

A plug is just another place to corrode and fail on you. Hardwire it lie all the rest of your pool equipment.