New pool chemistry

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T

ttonn

Well-known member
Oct 15, 2022
60
Houston
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
First time pool owner and new pool build is coming to a close. Pool is now filled and equipment running.

Pool finished filling Sunday night and has been running since Monday morning.

Current levels using the tf-pro kit.
Chlorine less than .5 (using daily test)
Ph over 8.2 (using daily test)
Ph 8.0 (using PH meter)
Calcium 150ppm
TA 140

We also have a bubbler feature that is running. That will raise PH with the extra oxygen getting in the water I believe? Anything look concerning. PB is working on chemistry and the first day dumped in calcium to start bringing that up.
 
ttonn said:
That will raise PH with the extra oxygen getting in the water I believe?
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Correct. Good job having a TF series test kit in-hand already. :goodjob: Your CH seems a bit low, but watch it for the next day or two to ensure it's not a testing error. Be sure to let that sample spin/mix and add the R-0012 until it turns a light baby blue color. Along with the links Allen provided, keep the Pool Care Basics page close by as all of its pages are very important.

Congrats on the new pool. Just in time. :swim:
 
ttonn said:
First time pool owner and new pool build is coming to a close. Pool is now filled and equipment running.

Pool finished filling Sunday night and has been running since Monday morning.

Current levels using the tf-pro kit.
Chlorine less than .5 (using daily test)
Ph over 8.2 (using daily test)
Ph 8.0 (using PH meter)
Calcium 150ppm
TA 140

We also have a bubbler feature that is running. That will raise PH with the extra oxygen getting in the water I believe? Anything look concerning. PB is working on chemistry and the first day dumped in calcium to start bringing that up.
Click to expand...
If by “daily test” you mean the yellow OTO test, you can ignore that. It’s more useful as a “is there chlorine in the water” kind of test. For accurate chlorine testing use the FAS-DPD powder.
 
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Share your PoolMath logs here.

Run a full set of tests.....
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature

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This assists us in helping you without needing to ask each time.
 
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+1. We were all gawking. I mean. Following your beauty of a build but we've already forgot your rig. :)
 
Will run a set of tests tonight. I'm not sure the start up method but would assume traditional. PB got equipment running on Monday, tested water and mentioned he had to add a 25lb bag of calcium to help bring that up but has not been back yet since then to check the water. Will touch base with them tomorrow to see where things stand as they are still supposed to be working through the start up.
 
Working on pool math logs.

Chlorine .5 (using daily test)
Ph 8.2 (using daily test)
Ph 8.0 (using PH meter)
Calcium 150ppm
TA 150
CYA <30ppm (dot was just cloudy)
FC 1ppm
CC zero
TC 1ppm
 
So let's go over your latest test results:
CYA: New water has none. This should be Day 3 of fill correct? If so, someone should be looking to add stabilizer to increase the CYA a little (at least 30 ppm). Something to ask or confirm.
FC: With no CYA, the FC will fall quickly. Once you add CYA, keep the FC balanced to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to avoid algae.
PH: Try to not let it exceed 8.0. We use muriatic acid to keep it controlled.
TA: It's a little elevated, but won't hurt right now because your CH seems to be a bit low.
CH: A minimum of 250 is recommended with closer to 350 as ideal. Speak to your builder about increasing the CH to perhaps 300 to be safe.

Don't forget to update your signature. We need to see all your pool info. See my sig as an example. Let us know if you have more questions.
 
Texas Splash said:
So let's go over your latest test results:
CYA: New water has none. This should be Day 3 of fill correct? If so, someone should be looking to add stabilizer to increase the CYA a little (at least 30 ppm). Something to ask or confirm.
FC: With no CYA, the FC will fall quickly. Once you add CYA, keep the FC balanced to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to avoid algae.
PH: Try to not let it exceed 8.0. We use muriatic acid to keep it controlled.
TA: It's a little elevated, but won't hurt right now because your CH seems to be a bit low.
CH: A minimum of 250 is recommended with closer to 350 as ideal. Speak to your builder about increasing the CH to perhaps 300 to be safe.

Don't forget to update your signature. We need to see all your pool info. See my sig as an example. Let us know if you have more questions.
Click to expand...
Signature should be fixed now. It wasn't showing for anyone so i didnt update it but realized it only shows when the phone is held in landscape mode.

Pb did put some stabilizer in the first day along with the tricolor pucks (I know but this is the route we are going to begin with).

I have not received any chemicals as of yet. Should I purchase anything now to have on hand regardless (i.e. Calcium or muriatic acid?) I will ask them tomorrow to see if they can bring up the calcium. Thanks for all the info.
 

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ttonn said:
Should I purchase anything now to have on hand regardless
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Definitely have some liquid chlorine available. Store that someplace indoors in a cool/dry place. Also have some muriatic acid available, but store that outdoors someplace safe and secure away from children and pets. The weather won't bother MA.
 
PB has not come back to test the water again as of yet. Tested again and levels all remain basically the same. Should I just add calcium myself? If so is there any brand or type that is recommended or just get the calcium from Leslie's pool supply?
 
ttonn said:
Should I just add calcium myself? If so is there any brand or type that is recommended or just get the calcium from Leslie's pool supply?
Click to expand...
If you are confident in your CH testing, I would. 150 is just too low. I would take it up to at least 250 for now. Use the PoolMath APP's "Effects of Adding" section to assist with the dosage. The pool store willl have calcium produicts, but it may cost a bit more. You can check with some of your local hardware stores, they may have a better price. Be aware, add the calcium slowly as it can can some temporary cloudiness in teh water, so don't be alarmed.

On a side note - Be sure to keep the FC balanced to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to prevent algae.

Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.
 
Pretty confident in testing. It also is inline with what the PB said the calcium would be at on the first day. He added the calcium and said it would bring it up to ~150ppm.

Adding the calcium to 250 I would also want to add some MA to bring ph down to 7.8 or so to keep CSI in line?

The CYA is definitely coming up, the test is getting a bit more cloudy but still not at the 30 mark yet. FC dropped to .5 and CC increases to .5ppm.
 
ttonn said:
I would also want to add some MA to bring ph down to 7.8 or so to keep CSI in line?
Click to expand...
In the first month with new plaster, allow the CSI to hoover slightly "positive", somewhere from zero (neutral) to 0.5. This will help with the curing process. After about 30 days, then you can begin to manage the CSI to slightly negative (zero to -0.3) to help prevent sale. This will be more important in the summer with warmer water.
 
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