New pool build in NJ (2/16/23)

Read section 305. Local codes could be MORE strict. 2018 INTERNATIONAL SWIMMING POOL AND SPA CODE (ISPSC) | ICC DIGITAL CODES

It is not simply 4' tall for aluminum fences. It is the spacing between pickets, and the spacing between the horizontal rails.

And for chain link - the opening in the chain link matters - per code. It may not to your code enforcer/inspector.
 
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The fence needs to be 4ft between the bottom and top horizontal rails. You also cant have more than 2" of space underneath the fence. The pickets are such that you cant pass a 4" ball between them. The gates have to open toward the outside of the pool (you have to pull them) and they have to swing closed on their own (inspector will check this).
I used a 4' OnGuard Herron aluminum fence for my pool and it all was to code.
 
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Oh it will definitely be a pool compliant fence. I've made it clear to the fencing contractors and will run it by township before I sign off anything.

My questions were just in regard to the general design and layout of the fence relative to the pool and how much space to give between patio and fence if I wanted some plants in there. And assuming the height is at the min height to code whether there is any benefit to go higher.
 
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All private swimming pools now existing or hereafter constructed, installed, established or maintained, with the exception of wading and portable pools, shall be completely and continuously surrounded by a permanent durable wall, fence or barrier which shall be no more than six feet nor less than four feet in height above grade and shall be so constructed as to have no opening, mesh, hole or gap larger than two inches in any dimension, except for doors and gates; provided, however, if a picket fence is erected or maintained, the horizontal dimension of any gap or opening shall not exceed 2 1/2 inches. No fence of any kind or material shall be constructed or maintained which shall contain projections of any kind at any point on the outer surface of said fence. A dwelling house or accessory building may not be used as part of such enclosure. All gates used in conjunction with any of the above-described enclosures shall conform to the specifications required above as to height and dimensions of openings, mesh, holes or gaps in the cases of fences, and all gates and doors shall be equipped with self-closing and self-latching devices for keeping the gate or door securely closed at all times when not in actual use. Latches shall be a minimum of four feet off ground level. Gates and doors shall be locked when the pool is not in use or is unguarded or unattended; provided, however, that nothing herein contained shall be construed to require the construction of an additional wall, fence or barrier where, in lieu thereof, the entire premises or a part thereof wherein the pool is contained shall be fully enclosed by a wall, fence or barrier which meets the specifications set forth herein. No fence shall be closer than six feet from any point of the pool.
 
Oh it will definitely be a pool compliant fence. I've made it clear to the fencing contractors and will run it by township before I sign off anything.

My questions were just in regard to the general design and layout of the fence relative to the pool and how much space to give between patio and fence if I wanted some plants in there. And assuming the height is at the min height to code whether there is any benefit to go higher.

I kept mine tight around the pool, there is 3ft between the fence on one side and 4ft on the other side, both front and back is about a foot.

full
 
I've made it clear to the fencing contractors and will run it by township before I sign off anything.
+1.

I used a large fence company for mine. Once I told the estimate guy we'd be putting a pool in afterwards, he rattled off a dozen applicable codes from the top of his head. I reminded them when the field foreman came to start the job that the gates had to swing out, be self closing, yadda yadda yadda.
 
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Need help with planning the next steps.

Back fill happened the last week. The PB will be installing the vermiculite next week and the liner install will likely be 2 weeks from that. I figure once the liner goes in it has to be filled with water. However my concern is that I currently do not have a fence for my yard. And fencing won't be installed until the pool patio and final grading is completed by the hardscaper which will be late April. I'm worried about the safety and liability of an unfenced pool.

1. The pool is already backfilled. Is it okay to leave a empty unfilled pool for a 1 month period after the vermiculite goes in but before the liner install? If so I will tell PB to schedule liner install after fence is erected.

2. What do I do about rain water when it pools on bottom of vermiculite?
 

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You risk the walls and bottom of the pool getting ruined by a heavy rain and the run off from it. The walls could collapse and the vermiculite may get channels from the run off.

One thing you can do is put up a temporary fence with push in metal poles and metal fencing such as this:

Best go ahead and put in the liner and fill it up to save your a lot of heartache and money.
 
You risk the walls and bottom of the pool getting ruined by a heavy rain and the run off from it. The walls could collapse and the vermiculite may get channels from the run off.

One thing you can do is put up a temporary fence with push in metal poles and metal fencing such as this:

Best go ahead and put in the liner and fill it up to save your a lot of heartache and money.
Yes. That sounds like a good idea. I'll look into that from HD
 
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2. What do I do about rain water when it pools on bottom of vermiculite?

I'd recommend getting a submersible utility pump.

I used this guy during my build to pump out numerous rain storms. Now I use it to pump the water out during winter.

 
I'd recommend getting a submersible utility pump.

I used this guy during my build to pump out numerous rain storms. Now I use it to pump the water out during winter.


+1 Dig a 2 ft deep hole in the lowest point of the deep end, fill it with like a foot deep of gravel (you are making a temporary sump pit) stick the sump pump in that so its not sucking up dirt and its at the lowest point.

Seems like you pool place did the reverse of mine. My company put the vermiculite in and the liner all in one day and then filled the pool just below the skimmers with water. It stayed like that for a bit an then they came and backfilled with gravel.
 
Good morning,

I am looking to add 3 additional receptables around my pool. I received a quote with the following to each of the corners ($1900). They will be wiring into an existing GFI breaker (that already controls 2 existing pool intellibrite lights + outlet (see picture) by the the equipment pad. The total supply to pool panel is 50 amp. The goal of adding the outlets is to add landscape lighting features as well as convenience, also I do want to add lamp posts down the road. Not sure if adding 3 is overkill, but it would be placed outside deck at the 3 corners of the pool.. I just want to do it now while pool is still in building phase and not have to worry about it later.

1. Does this make sense or should a new GFI breaker added?
2. What do you typically use outlets for?

1680268275643.png1680268311545.png

Bonus picture of backfilled pool and I put X where new outlets would go:
1680268875199.png
 

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Hello,

There was some heavy rain recently so I used the hayward multiport valve to divert water through the waste line. I noticed that when I switched it back to close position, there is a very slow leak... drip every few seconds coming from the waste line. I have it lined up to closed position as best as possible. Is this normal the multiport valve? Could I just put a plug on the waste line?

EDIT:
I adjusted the valve slightly a couple degrees off 90 and it stopped leaking.

leak.jpg
 
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Good morning,

I am looking to add 3 additional receptables around my pool. I received a quote with the following to each of the corners ($1900). They will be wiring into an existing GFI breaker (that already controls 2 existing pool intellibrite lights + outlet (see picture) by the the equipment pad. The total supply to pool panel is 50 amp. The goal of adding the outlets is to add landscape lighting features as well as convenience, also I do want to add lamp posts down the road. Not sure if adding 3 is overkill, but it would be placed outside deck at the 3 corners of the pool.. I just want to do it now while pool is still in building phase and not have to worry about it later.

1. Does this make sense or should a new GFI breaker added?
2. What do you typically use outlets for?

View attachment 479609View attachment 479610

Bonus picture of backfilled pool and I put X where new outlets would go:
View attachment 479612
If you are only looking at the outlets for landscaping lighting, another option is run electrical conduit from the equipment pad to around the edge of your pool or deck and run the low voltage cable(s) inside it. Then you could control them with your automation panel. If you are looking at just low voltage landscaping wires in the conduit you could use 3/4". If you want to also use it for speaker wire I would upgrade to 1" conduit. For my pool I bought the conduit and asked the electricians how much they warned to install it. It only cost a couple hundred dollars. They bent it with heat instead of having to buy (and sometime fight the angle of the fittings.) I also ran a separate 3/4" conduit run foe my 120VAC outlets. I ran extra extra conduits in every location I could think of.
 
If you are only looking at the outlets for landscaping lighting, another option is run electrical conduit from the equipment pad to around the edge of your pool or deck and run the low voltage cable(s) inside it. Then you could control them with your automation panel. If you are looking at just low voltage landscaping wires in the conduit you could use 3/4". If you want to also use it for speaker wire I would upgrade to 1" conduit. For my pool I bought the conduit and asked the electricians how much they warned to install it. It only cost a couple hundred dollars. They bent it with heat instead of having to buy (and sometime fight the angle of the fittings.) I also ran a separate 3/4" conduit run foe my 120VAC outlets. I ran extra extra conduits in every location I could think of.
Good idea. Thank you!

Liner has been placed and it is a snug fit at all places except at the 2 corners of the top steps. One corner is much worse than the other.

Liner was measured according to manufactured specifications. The water depth at the top step is 3.5". The water level is about 1.8" below the top of the skimmer. My PB said to fill it with more water and give it time for temperature to warm up so it will go into place. Currently pool water is at 70 degrees.

Is this degree of looseness/sagging at the corners acceptable? Can anyone with vinyl covered steps comment on how their corner looks?

Worse looking corner:

liner1.jpgliner2.jpg
liner3a.jpg



Other corner which doesn't look as bad. Really only noticed it if you squint.

liner 3 oppositea.jpg

liner 4 oppositea.jpg
 
I've got an identical set up that was installed Oct of 2022. Full length 16' vinyl covered steps on the L. My corners look very similar. I don't have any close ups of them, but can send some if you'd like. I have 6" radius corners, and looks the same for you? They are never going to be perfect on the top step, there just isn't enough water pressure. You're probably really noticing it for two reasons: one, we overanalyze everything on our builds (;)) and two, the tile pattern probably makes it stand out more than I notice on mine (Bali/Blue Granite by Latham) I am 100% satisfied that I went with the vinyl covered step instead of the fiberglass insert though even with the imperfection, FWIW. If you fill the pool all the way over the skimmer, that might help push them in and then lower it back down to where it needs to be. That's sort of what happened with mine over the winter as the pool filled up through snow/rain through the safety cover.
 
I've got an identical set up that was installed Oct of 2022. Full length 16' vinyl covered steps on the L. My corners look very similar. I don't have any close ups of them, but can send some if you'd like. I have 6" radius corners, and looks the same for you? They are never going to be perfect on the top step, there just isn't enough water pressure. You're probably really noticing it for two reasons: one, we overanalyze everything on our builds (;)) and two, the tile pattern probably makes it stand out more than I notice on mine (Bali/Blue Granite by Latham) I am 100% satisfied that I went with the vinyl covered step instead of the fiberglass insert though even with the imperfection, FWIW. If you fill the pool all the way over the skimmer, that might help push them in and then lower it back down to where it needs to be. That's sort of what happened with mine over the winter as the pool filled up through snow/rain through the safety cover.
Okay. That is reassuring to hear. I have 6" radius corners. Definitely everything gets overanalyzed and questioned with the amount of money, time and stress going into this project. Almost at finish line though. Patio guys started today!
 
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