New plaster now stained

BoHpool

Gold Supporter
Jun 24, 2022
157
Donna, TX
Pool Size
37500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
The first 2 pictures are of the new plaster May 28. The last 4 pictures are of the stained plaster yesterday. I followed the TFP new plaster start-up as well as I could. I have a helper who works every other week. I have tried to get him to read and follow directions but he seems immune. I turned the pools over to him July 3rd and the spa was still bright blue with good chemistry. It's a bromine spa. I assume the staining is copper from the heater.
FC 7
pH 7.6
TA 80
I took back over on July 10 and noticed immediately the staining in the spa. I tried to test the chemistry but got strange results.
FC 10
pH purple
TA I added 2 drops of 7 and started adding 8, the sample turned red, I added 2 drops of 9 and it got brighter red and stopped
I used pool math and added half of the baking soda recommended. I waited a few hours and tested pH again. Still purple. I used pool math and added half the recommended dray acid. I repeated this process till I got the TA and pH back to 80 and 7.6.
So I have the spa back in shape chemistry wise but it looks like heck.IMG_20230528_113935388.jpgIMG_20230528_113945937.jpgIMG_20230712_103337733.jpgIMG_20230712_103345575.jpgIMG_20230712_103356399_BURST000_COVER.jpgIMG_20230712_103403394.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have a plaster spa. Does this advice apply to a plaster spa also?

I believe so, but what specific advice are you asking about?

Do you have a spillover spa to your pool?
 
The first 2 pictures are of the new plaster May 28. The last 4 pictures are of the stained plaster yesterday. I followed the TFP new plaster start-up as well as I could. I have a helper who works every other week. I have tried to get him to read and follow directions but he seems immune. I turned the pools over to him July 3rd and the spa was still bright blue with good chemistry. It's a bromine spa. I assume the staining is copper from the heater.
FC 7
pH 7.6
TA 80
I took back over on July 10 and noticed immediately the staining in the spa. I tried to test the chemistry but got strange results.
FC 10
pH purple
TA I added 2 drops of 7 and started adding 8, the sample turned red, I added 2 drops of 9 and it got brighter red and stopped
I used pool math and added half of the baking soda recommended. I waited a few hours and tested pH again. Still purple. I used pool math and added half the recommended dray acid. I repeated this process till I got the TA and pH back to 80 and 7.6.
So I have the spa back in shape chemistry wise but it looks like heck.
Can’t really tell anything, your pool logs aren’t showing up to get an idea of what the chemistry has been like.

TFP never recommends dry acid. It adds sulphates to the water which destroy metal and concrete surfaces. Better to use wet acid.
 
FC 10
pH purple
TA I added 2 drops of 7 and started adding 8, the sample turned red, I added 2 drops of 9 and it got brighter red and stopped
I used pool math and added half of the baking soda recommended. I waited a few hours and tested pH again. Still purple. I used pool math and added half the recommended dray acid.
The stains are copper stains.

The pH was below 4.5.

The purple was from the high bromine levels.

People get fooled by the color and think that the pH is high when it is actually too low.

The TA was below 0.

The combination of high bromine and low pH corroded the copper from the heat exchanger.

I would turn the system off and use Jack's #2 to remove the stains and then drain and refill if it is safe to do.

Pools and/or spas can float if drained during high ground water levels.



Copper-Scale-Stuff-5lb-Clean-2-e1563896232209.png



 
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High levels of bromine can convert phenol red to bromophenol red (dibromophenolsulfonephthalein, whose lowered pKa results in an indicator with a range shifted in the acidic direction – water at pH 6.8 will appear to test at 7.5).

Even higher levels of bromine (>20 ppm) can result in the secondary conversion of bromophenol red to bromophenol blue with an even lower pKa, erroneously giving the impression that the water has an extremely high pH despite being dangerously low.

 

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I guess I was hijacking another thread, the moderator moved my post to it's own thread.
This is the thread I was referencing. Anyone else have a never ending tug of war between pH and TA in their spa?
And you have another thread going on about your spa at....


What question do you have about pH and TA in your spa?
 
Reduce your pH to 7.6-7.8 and leave your TA alone. Accept whatever TA you get. As long as your pH is stable your TA is fine.
I have been keeping my TA at 80 which I thought was the recommendation of the plaster start-up but now I don't see that.
 
I have been keeping my TA at 80 which I thought was the recommendation of the plaster start-up but now I don't see that.

You are past the 30 day plaster startup so whatever you read no longer applies.

TA of 60 and even 50 is ok. if pH is in the upper 7's and TA is low it is OK. If pH is getting toward 7.0 and Ta is below 50 then adjusting TA up a bit may be required.
 
A moderator moved a question I asked from a different thread and made a new thread. Then the moderator realized I had this thread and combined them. Not good moderation in my opinion but here we are.
Your two problems are intertwined.

It sounds like you have been chasing a false pH reading due to your bromine.
 

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