New Pebbletech Pool...ignoring phosphates per tfp

[jrh590]

Might need to deep clean if any pool store potions have been used.
Sunscreen should break down with sun and chlorine. Normally creates a sticky film on the water line and in the skimmer. As I said, some use tennis balls or scum balls in the skimmer to catch it.


We like to keep chemistry discussion in one thread. So that is why I kept combining them.

Luckily no pool store potions have been used! Thank you for your help!

 

[sacredcow]

Mine were at least that high for a long time (measured in the lab I manage) and they didn't really seem to affect anything, Re: algae growth so long as I kept the chlorine at the proper levels. At the time, I was using bleach and travelled a lot so I often came back to a green pool and had to SLAM. At some point, I decided to go ahead and get rid of the phosphates in the hopes that maybe I could stop the algae blooms from happening so fast and/or shorten the SLAM duration.

First off, don't bother with PhosFree- That stuff is completely useless. Get the P-10,000 from Amazon. For my smallish 14K gallon pool, I only used about 8 ounces, mixed it with a bucket of pool water, and spread it around the pool. Once it was mixed well, I shut off the pump and just let it settle out. Next morning, it looked like I had popped a DE grid at the bottom of the pool. I vacuumed all of that to waste and let the pump circulate the rest of the day. Next morning, phosphates were pretty much at zero. They've since climbed up a little from the rains so I might repeat this process soon.

Has it helped the algae blooms? Can't say. Right after that, Houston had the deep freeze and I popped some of my PVC plumbing. At that point I upgraded to salt so I can now leave town for a week and not have any issues.

 

[jrh590]

Might need to deep clean if any pool store potions have been used.
Sunscreen should break down with sun and chlorine. Normally creates a sticky film on the water line and in the skimmer. As I said, some use tennis balls or scum balls in the skimmer to catch it.


We like to keep chemistry discussion in one thread. So that is why I kept combining them.

So regarding sunscreen, even if my FC has been in a good place since saturday, that long a duration wont break it up? That is normal, or it has been prolonged now you would say? The cover in use obviously doesnt let the sun break it up, but 5 days is not enough time for constant pump running and FC to do its thing against the oils?

Also, I wont be a mooch of free information. I will support and give the donation to the site for all the help! Just wish I would have done it before I bought by test kit already lol.

 

[mknauss]

So regarding sunscreen, even if my FC has been in a good place since saturday, that long a duration wont break it up? That is normal, or it has been prolonged now you would say? The cover in use obviously doesnt let the sun break it up, but 5 days is not enough time for constant pump running and FC to do its thing against the oils?

In most cases the oils should have dissipated by now. Leave the cover off for a day. See if that helps.

 

[mguzzy]

Hello! Had my pool about 2 months now. my phosphates are around 4000ppb if we are to believe Leslie's test. Everyone here says ignore phosphates, as they dont matter. So far I have. Question- is there any harm in adding a chemical to bring that number down? Thanks!

Hi JR.. I thought I would chime in. I deal with my phosphates because of the configuration of my pool, I get a lot of run off from the raised garden that makes up the backdrop of my pool. Its just a fact of life dealing with constant organic input. So I use the SeaKlear stuff to bring it down and it seems to make things more manageable... BUT you have to remember the phosphate removers create a precipitate that drops out. Don't let the pool stores make it worse by selling you a clarifier as well. Just let it drop out, and vac to waste. I have cartridge filters and I use an old set when I do the Phosphate treatment as a part of my spring start up. ALSO there is anecdotal evidence that high phosphates can affect SWG's. Many SWG manufactures require a low phosphate reading to honor warranty claims. I see you chlorinate with liquid.. but I thought I would mention that for anyone else reading this thread.

If you get a Phosphate test, get the Taylor drop based test, not the one with the little packets. Those tend to go bad.

 

[jrh590]

In most cases the oils should have dissipated by now. Leave the cover off for a day. See if that helps.

Would you think that after only having the pool two months and actually being in it maybe 20 times, that the new sand filter would already need cleaning because a backwash doesnt suffice? I am not worreid about the sunscreen as I now know that is what it is. I will get the scumballs etc, but I am concerned about the filter not lowering its pressure and also 5 days of FC and filtering not working on the oil? So to be clear since I am rambling, the presence of oil doesnt bother me, just the fact that my system doesnt appear to be working in the manner it should. thanks!

 

[SLee]

Where did your pool fill water come from?

Water utilities add phosphates to water to prevent corrosion of their pipes.

What makes you think 4,500 ppb is super high? Because it is a big number?

I'm sure most people in here already know this, but I still like to point out that 4,500 ppB is the same as 4.5 ppM because it shows the marketing deception in the industry. Everything that must be accurately measured in pools is measured at ppM, not ppB. Only phosphates are measured in ppB because TAKE MY MONEY BECAUSE I HAVE FOUR THOUSAND FIVE HUNDRED BAD STUFF IN MY POOL!!!