New pad plumbing done. Tried to be as efficient as I could

[uraceulose]

Got the new plumbing setup all dialed in today. Added heater bypass, pentair multi port valve, high temp unions, check valve, SWCG power box, removed all 90* fittings and replaced with long sweep 90s and 45s. Moved booster pump over and off-line chlorinator back to create more floor space.
Dropped about 75 rpm..150 watts to 118 watts.

Still need to plumb in/wire SWCG, plumb chlorinator back in, install pump suction side high temp union and install 90* fittings on the pressure side of the booster pump.

Would you guys bypass the heater bypass when running the heater or allow some water to flow through the heater and leave the bypass open to allow water to flow both back to the pool return and through the heater?

 

[ajw22]

When bypassing the heater set the diverter for 80% water bypassed and 20% flowing through the heater.

Why are you installing the chlorinator if you have the SWG.

Confirm the sweep 90s you are using are schedule 40 and not DWV.

 

[proavia]

Nice job!

It appears you have a few gallons of muriatic acid stored along side your chlorine and other chemicals.
Acid needs to be stored away from chlorine and other chemicals and any metal - preferably in a secure and well ventilated container.

Also, the fertilizer needs to be stored in a different location from the chlorine and/or the acid.

 

[pjt]

Would you guys bypass the heater bypass when running the heater or allow some water to flow through the heater and leave the bypass open to allow water to flow both back to the pool return and through the heater?

When operating the heater, close the bypass so all water flows through the heater.

plumb chlorinator back in

Why? You're installing a SWCG.

install pump suction side high temp union

Consider removing the ball valve. If you need a valve there, replace it with a high quality diverter valve.

Don't store LC and MA next to each other!

Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you guys! Already moved the fertilizer and will get that MA moved tonight!!

Will do as you’re saying on the flow settings.

My thinking on the chlorinator was that it may be nice to have if I left for a couple weeks vacation or if cya levels crept down I could open the valve and have the option to supplement that way.

 

[uraceulose]

When bypassing the heater set the diverter for 80% water bypassed and 20% flowing through the heater.

Why are you installing the chlorinator if you have the SWG.

Confirm the sweep 90s you are using are schedule 40 and not DWV.

If I drain/blow the heater out, would I be okay to run completely bypassed?

 

[ajw22]

If I drain/blow the heater out, would I be okay to run completely bypassed?

When?

Why?

 

[ajw22]

My thinking on the chlorinator was that it may be nice to have if I left for a couple weeks vacation or if cya levels crept down I could open the valve and have the option to supplement that way.

Use a floater in the pool for tablets when you go on vaca.

Tablets in the chlorinator in your plumbing put your heater at risk of damage. And they get clogged up if left idle and not continuously used.

 

[uraceulose]

When?

Why?

Basically all the time. I don't use the heater much. It doesn't freeze here but once every 5 years and even then we're talking 30-31 degrees for a night if that.

My thinking is that no water flowing through/sitting inside would reduce any corrosion/wear over the years and allow pump to run just a bit more efficient?

I'll just ditch the chlorinator. I had been just leaving the valve completely closed so nothing flowed into/out of it but figured it was easier than a floater if I cover the pool and leave town.

 

[ajw22]

My thinking is that no water flowing through/sitting inside would reduce any corrosion/wear over the years

Water flowing through the copper heat exchanger maintains the calcium patina that protects the copper. That is why there is a minimum calcium level in pool water when you have a gas heater. A slow water flow through the heater does not cause any wear.

and allow pump to run just a bit more efficient?

80% bypass/20% through the heater is as efficient as 100% bypass and better for the heater. That is what Pentair and Jandy recommend for their automatic bypass.

You can see it for yourself if you watch the filter PSI gauge as you turn the valve to bypass the water. The PSI will drop and plateau before the valve is closed 100%. The point where the PSI first drops to its lowest level is the best bypass setting.

 

[uraceulose]

Copy that! Thank you.

I noticed last night that pressure/watt draw was same at 20% flow through heater or 0%.

Didn’t realize it actually helped the heat exchanger to have some water flowing through at all times

 

[uraceulose]

Done and generating.

Was able to get SWCG to run all day at 40% and ended up 10 FC this evening so I backed it down to 20% and will re-check tomorrow. The CSI really likes the higher PH with the colder water temps.

With heater 80% bypassed, it runs at 25 GPM/100 watts/1150-1175 RPM 24/7 and hopefully the SWCG is able to maintain FC @ 20% through winter & 60% through summer prolonging the cell life. I'm super happy with how the layout turned out, it created another 8 sq ft or so of floor space for storage, puts everything super accessible and in regards to flow dynamics is about as good as I was able to come up with.

Landed that power center for $85 shipped brand new..running on 220 tied into the pump, works great. Just FYI as the Pentair power center can be $400-$800.