New IC-60 SWG - Low Flow & Check Valve Issues

[pmahosky]

I took the SWG plunge and had a Pentair IC-60 installed where the inline chlorine feeder was that the PB installed. I never used it and have been a TFP disciple / liquid chlorine user since to pool was opened 2 years ago.

Over the past week I have been having issues with the SWG shutting down after a few hours (I run the pump at night for 4-6 hours) due to low flow at pump RPMs up to 3000 (I started at 2100 and stopped testing at 3000 as at that point it seemed the problem wouldn't be low flow). After investigating I found that the magic plastics flapper style check valve that the PB installed on the heater/filter side of the inline chlorine feeder (and now just before the IC-60) is opening maybe 1/4 when the pump is on - even when the pump is at max RPM (3450). My questions are:

1. Should the flapper valve be mostly or fully open when the pump is running at full RPM?
2. How much should the valve open at say 2100 RPM - in other words should it be mostly open, 1/2 open, etc.?
3. Do I still need the check valve given that the inline chlorinator is no longer installed. The pool equipment is a few feet below the supply jets and returns (main drains, skimmers) on the pool and I need to shut the supply side drain and skimmer valves to clean the pump basket, filter, etc. to stop siphon flow. Since the supply and return piping are both below the pool I don't know if backflow through the return side piping would be possible when the pump is running / not running.

My plan is to take the valve apart, troubleshoot and maybe replace the internals but if I don't need the valve I will just remove the internals.

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[ajw22]

When did you last clean your filter?

What is your filter PSI at 3000 RPM?

Low flow is often a dirty/clogged filter.

The check valve flap will not open far if the flow is low.

Do you have an MPV?

Put the MPV in RECIRCULATE and see what your flow is.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You can also remove the flapper on the check valve for now, and test again.

 

[Jimrahbe]

p,

The more things that are in the water's path from the pump and back to the pool, the faster you will need to run your pump.

Heaters add more, UV things add more, etc.

That said, the main thing that adds resistance to the water flow is a dirty filter. But... with a big filter like yours, it would have to be really dirty. When was the last time the filter was cleaned?

You do not need a check valve between the heater and the SWCG. Just remove the guts. You only need that check valve if you are using a tab feeder.

In most pools with heaters, an IntelliFlo pump has to run at about 1500 to 1700 RPM to close the flow switch.

Could also be a bad flow switch..

The key is what does the water feel like when coming out of a pool return eyeball? Does it have a weak flow or not.

Also.. If you have a lot of water features that are plumbed before the SWCG that will cause even less flow through the SWCG.

Let's see some pics of your equipment pad..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pmahosky]

I took the filter apart a few days ago, cleaned it thoroughly and recharged the DE. It's a Pentair Quad DE 100. Current PSI at 3000 RPM is 18. When I put the MPV in RECIRCULATE the flapper valve opened 80% (from maybe 40%) but I would expect some increase in flow when bypassing the filter.

 

[ajw22]

When I put the MPV in RECIRCULATE the flapper valve opened 80% (from maybe 40%) but I would expect some increase in flow when bypassing the filter.

Then your check valve is functioning properly although as Jim says it is not necessary and can be removed.

A clean filter should not provide much of a restriction.

In RECIRCULATE mode how slow can you run your pump before you get the LOW FLOW?

 

[pmahosky]

I'll need to test the LOW FLOW in RECIRCULATE. Thanks for the help so far.

 

[ajw22]

Show us pics of your equipment pad.

 

[pmahosky]

I have a UV system that the PB installed that is causing additional head loss, otherwise I have a basic set up per my signature. I am going to remove the UV and straight pipe (as much as possible) from the filter to heater and that should help. I can also remove the check valve when doing this. I will check back after that is done depending on the results. Again.....thanks everyone.

 

[pjt]

I am going to remove the UV and straight pipe (as much as possible) from the filter to heater and that should help.

If you're doing some PVC work, I'd suggest installing a heater bypass. It will significantly improve your flow efficiency when you're not using the heater.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pmahosky]

Thanks. I have one now and will definitely incorporate that into the new piping.