New IC-20 reads "low salt" under about 80 degrees

[djibouti]

I recently installed an IC-20 (an adventure story all its own). It looked to be working fine, but then I saw that it was giving me a "low salt" reading one morning. I reset it a few times without success.

Having read other posts on the matter, I thought maybe I have a bad flow switch, but the diagnostic mode shows 60% and 80% LEDs (very briefly, FWIW). That puts it in the range of what my water temperature actually is, this morning (73%).

My Taylor test, and test strips, all put the salt at 3,400 PPM which should be just about perfect.

On a whim I turned on the heater and tried again at around 80 degrees, and it worked fine.

Any thoughts? My next step is obviously to call Pentair support.

 

[ajw22]

Are you testing the salt using the Taylor K-1766 test kit?

 

[djibouti]

Are you testing the salt using the Taylor K-1766 test kit?

Yes. 3400 PPM. Separately, test strips also confirm this result.

 

[djibouti]

I may as well post the whole shebang (Taylor test kit results):

FC 4.5 (last night, before adding another 3-4 PPM)
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 60
CH 350
CYA 60
Salt 3400

 

[ajw22]

Test strips are too inaccurate to confirm anything.

See what Pentair says.

 

[ajw22]

Raise your salt up to 3600 to 3800 and the cell will probably be happy.

 

[djibouti]

OK, but it's not "low salt" until 2800, right? I'm worried because my warranty may only be 60 days (unclear from the warranty certificate when it expires), and I don't want a problem that gets worse over time.

 

[Jimrahbe]

d,

Sounds like a bad flow switch to me... The cell's salt reading tolerance is about 500 ppm.. It would not have to be off much to give you a low salt light, which happens at 2800 ppm.

I'd either bring your salt up to 3600 or get Pentair to replace the flow switch assy.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

OK, but it's not "low salt" until 2800, right?

Is the green CELL LED ON or OFF with youyr LOW SALT red LED?

The LOW SALT LED being red has two possible meanings:

1. Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IntelliChlor SWG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency and is highly recommended to add salt.
2. Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600ppm. The IntelliChlor SWG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF as shown by the green CELL LED being OFF.

I'm worried because my warranty may only be 60 days (unclear from the warranty certificate when it expires), and I don't want a problem that gets worse over time.

Open up a warranty claim with Pentair now if you are worried.

I doubt it will get worse. It may improve with usage.

 

[JamesW]

 

[djibouti]

d,

Sounds like a bad flow switch to me... The cell's salt reading tolerance is about 500 ppm.. It would not have to be off much to give you a low salt light, which happens at 2800 ppm.

I'd either bring your salt up to 3600 or get Pentair to replace the flow switch assy.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks. I'll try raising it first, I guess more data is good.

Is the green CELL LED ON or OFF with youyr LOW SALT red LED?

The LOW SALT LED being red has two possible meanings:

1. Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IntelliChlor SWG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency and is highly recommended to add salt.
2. Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600ppm. The IntelliChlor SWG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF as shown by the green CELL LED being OFF.

Open up a warranty claim with Pentair now if you are worried.

I doubt it will get worse. It may improve with usage.

The CELL LED is on with the LOW SALT LED.

 

[ajw22]

The CELL LED is on with the LOW SALT LED.

Then the cell is generating while it is unhappy at the salt level.

 

[djibouti]

I added 5 lbs to bring the salt up to about 4000 and now it worked at 73 degrees. So, seems like a simple solve, thanks everyone!