New Hot Tub

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C

chilks

Member
Mar 9, 2020
8
united kingdom
Just Bought new tub and having problems

Tap water is as follows

PH 7.8
TA 210
CH 240
Brought TA down to 80 using dry acid. Doing it slowly and aerating as I went to bring PH back up. Added some Boric Acid to get 50 ppm. Also added some scale preventer to help with high Calcium. As I near the end of the dry acid procedure the water seems to cloud up and leaves white dry water marks on surfaces. Did this twice now after draining the 1st time but same outcome. Any ideas what i'm doing wrong.

Testing done with a Taylor k-2006c

thanks
 
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When did you add scale preventor in this process? I'm not familiar with it but I haven't see it recommended here at TFP before.

240 ppm of CH isn't all that much actually. I'm having issues with metal ions messing up my CH test but it's somewhere around 400 (375 is the average from our city water report). I don't use scale preventor and I don't have cloudy water or scale buildup.

For others who are more knowledgeable then me can you list what scale preventor product you used?
 
My system for private spas, which I recommend to my customers and use in my own tub(s) is simple, inexpensive, and in my experience trouble free.

Fill up
Fill spa through filter inlet.
Start spa and test pumps.
Test water.
Balance alkalinity to 100ppm.
Wait at least 4 hours.
Test water.
Balance ph to 7.4-7.6
Add 4 tsp dichlor
Wait 30 minutes.
Test water.
If total chlorine is higher than free chlorine, shock with 4 tsp dichlor.
Wait 30 minutes. Test.

Maintain
After each use of the spa, add 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person in the spa of dichlor.
Each week, test water and balance alk and ph as needed. Since dichlor is ph neutral you should not need to do much.
If total chlorine is higher than free chlorine, shock with 4tsp dichlor. If you have ozone you will not need to shock.
Each month, remove filter(s) and rinse with hose.
Every 3 months, clean filter thoroughly. If using a filter cleaning solution be sure it is all completely rinsed from the filter fibers before re-installation.
Every 6 months, drain and refill.

Always leave cover open for 30 minutes after adding chemicals to prolong cover life.

To avoid foam in your spa, do not wash your spa suit in detergent and fabric softener, rinse with plain water or just wear your birthday suit. Do not allow hair treated with product to contact water, wear hair up. Avoid suntan lotion, baby oil, and other skin care products prior to use. Do not get makeup in the water. Always rinse off before use.

Avoid extra chemicals, scents, conditioners, clarifiers, borate, etc... They will only create problems and cause more frequent water changes.

Mineral sticks, such as spa frog or nature2, are ok to use but un-necessary.

You need:
Chlorinating granules (99% dichlor)
Ph increaser
Alkalinity increaser
Dry acid
Test strips with free and total chlorine
You may use:
Filter cleaner
Foam down

This is my method. There are many methods of maintaining your spa, this is my preference. Others may advise you differently, that is their preference. What matters is finding a method that works for you. Try it out. You can always pour in a basketful of chemicals later if this does not work for you.
Best of luck.
 
You should post a full set of test results here so people can have them to help diagnose the issue.

@JoyfulNoise do you know if scale preventer can leave white marks at the waterline?
 
You need to stop using dry acid. Sulfates are incredibly bad for metallic components and you’re likely building up a mixed scale (calcium carbonate and calcium sulfate).

Can you scrape off the white scale and test it with muriatic acid? Does it fizz? You can also test it with cleaning vinegar (acetic acid).

240ppm CH is on the high side for a spa. If you run 80-100ppm TA and your pH rises to 7.8 (very easy to do with aeration), then your CSI at 104F is +0.33. That can cause scaling.
Stop using dry acid, don’t use scale remover products and rebalance your next fill using muriatic acid. Aim for a TA of 50ppm and add 50ppm borates. Only use dichlor until your CYA is 30ppm then switch over to bleach/liquid chlorine.
 
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Full results Taylor K2006c

TA 80
PH 7.6
CH 220
CY 40
Borates 40 ppm

Added dry acid
No Scale
Going over to bleach today

What is the idea CH?

Muriatic Acid is hard to buy in the UK, That’s why I use Dry Acid, Is Hydrochloric acid th e same. If so what strength would I need to use?

Thanks
 
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