New Hot Tub Owner. Lot to Learn

[mayberry32]

Thanks for this. I wish I would’ve read this before I drained the water but I’m buying one for the next drain.

I just filled mine last week and got sick of the foam and chasing chemistry in that stupid Frog system. So, I drained and started over. I used a sump pump to get the water out faster. That took about 20 minutes total, plus a few minutes with a shop vac getting the residual low spots.

My plumber did give me some good advice about refilling. He told me to piece together a few water hoses and run one from the back of my washing machine, where the hot water hook up is. I have 2 50 gallon hot water heaters, so I just used that 100 gallons of hot water, combined with the ground water in the outside hose bib and the water was 90º when completely filled. Also, with 2 hoses going, it took 45 minutes to fill a 450 gallon hot tub. So, I was up and running the same night.

 

[phonedave]

Do you mind sending me a link to the product you’re referring to? I did a quick search on Amazon and returned a bunch. I can buy from Amazon or Walmart or directly from you (the retailer) if possible.

I basically use 3 Ahhsome products.

Hot Tub Purge - For purging just before a water change
Hot Tub Cleaner - A spray for cleaning gunk off the shell. It is safe to get into the water
Aqua Clarity - A weekly dose that helps to remove any biofilm between purges.

 

[mayberry32]

I basically use 3 Ahhsome products.

Hot Tub Purge - For purging just before a water change
Hot Tub Cleaner - A spray for cleaning gunk off the shell. It is safe to get into the water
Aqua Clarity - A weekly dose that helps to remove any biofilm between purges.

Do you find a need to use both the purge and the Aqua Clarity? One of his videos showed using a higher dose of Aqua Clarity in lieu of the Ahhsome, and said they are interchangable.

So, the Aqua Clarity can be added to the water weekly, without changing, and no ill effects from the added chemicals? No rash, or no changing the pH, alkalinity, etc, from adding it?

Is the Aqua Clarity also compatible with salt systems? Pricing out the addition of chlorine, having to dump and refill the tub every 3 months, etc, has me thinking very quickly about switching out to a salt system. The entire upgrade is under $1000 and seems much easier to maintain chemistry.

 

[phonedave]

Do you find a need to use both the purge and the Aqua Clarity? One of his videos showed using a higher dose of Aqua Clarity in lieu of the Ahhsome, and said they are interchangable.

So, the Aqua Clarity can be added to the water weekly, without changing, and no ill effects from the added chemicals? No rash, or no changing the pH, alkalinity, etc, from adding it?

Is the Aqua Clarity also compatible with salt systems? Pricing out the addition of chlorine, having to dump and refill the tub every 3 months, etc, has me thinking very quickly about switching out to a salt system. The entire upgrade is under $1000 and seems much easier to maintain chemistry.

You can definitely use Aqua Clarity to purge if you want. I do find that when I purge, a lot less 'stuff' comes out since I started using Aqua Clarity.

I use AhhSome to purge because I have it on hand - I use it in my indoor jetted tub and in my washing machine. I guess I could use Aqua Clarity for that as well, but AhhSome is what I am used to.

I have had no issue with using Aqua Clarity weekly except for issues with foaming that i had when first using it. It does have a mild surfactant in it. I just keep my Calcium Hardness high enough, and make sure i don't overdoes the product and it has been fine. In my tub I find one scant ounce works well. No foaming issues, and it keeps everything clean.

Salt is chlorine, so yes it is compatible. If a salt system was available on my tub I would have got one myself. I love the one on my pool, and have no regrets. I would use a drape over system in my tub, but i have to figure out how I want to run the electric so it does not look totally janky.

 

[phonedave]

I just filled mine last week and got sick of the foam and chasing chemistry in that stupid Frog system. So, I drained and started over. I used a sump pump to get the water out faster. That took about 20 minutes total, plus a few minutes with a shop vac getting the residual low spots.

My plumber did give me some good advice about refilling. He told me to piece together a few water hoses and run one from the back of my washing machine, where the hot water hook up is. I have 2 50 gallon hot water heaters, so I just used that 100 gallons of hot water, combined with the ground water in the outside hose bib and the water was 90º when completely filled. Also, with 2 hoses going, it took 45 minutes to fill a 450 gallon hot tub. So, I was up and running the same night.

I debated doing that myself. I can reach my tub with a hose from my laundry room window, and I have on demand hot water so in theory I could fill my tub with it. It would likely be cheaper.

 

[mayberry32]

You can definitely use Aqua Clarity to purge if you want. I do find that when I purge, a lot less 'stuff' comes out since I started using Aqua Clarity.

I use AhhSome to purge because I have it on hand - I use it in my indoor jetted tub and in my washing machine. I guess I could use Aqua Clarity for that as well, but AhhSome is what I am used to.

I have had no issue with using Aqua Clarity weekly except for issues with foaming that i had when first using it. It does have a mild surfactant in it. I just keep my Calcium Hardness high enough, and make sure i don't overdoes the product and it has been fine. In my tub I find one scant ounce works well. No foaming issues, and it keeps everything clean.

Salt is chlorine, so yes it is compatible. If a salt system was available on my tub I would have got one myself. I love the one on my pool, and have no regrets. I would use a drape over system in my tub, but i have to figure out how I want to run the electric so it does not look totally janky.

My tub is "salt-system ready", so it's an easy change. They swap out the control board to account for the salt system and insert the filter cartridge. The tub is already made for it and there is a dummy filter cartridge in there now.

I have looked at the drape over systems, and they are cheaper...but I know that Hot Springs will make the filter cartridge for my tub and I don't have to worry about the product just going away. It's also way simpler to have it built into my control panel and just have a built in cartridge to change out. I'm not sure what the saltron mini cartridges cost, but I can get a full year of the Hot Springs system online for $289. Considering that chlorine granules will most likely cost me around $120 per year, the difference isn't so great that I'm concerned with it. It would also be great to have a system that somewhat maintains itself. We have a saltwater bay boat and take it down to the Gulf coast several times a year. When we are gone for a week or 10 days at a time, I don't want to have to worry about coming home to a green hot tub. The salt system should, at least, keep it stabilized to some extent, for that stretch of time, with no bathing load.

 

[phonedave]

My tub is "salt-system ready", so it's an easy change. They swap out the control board to account for the salt system and insert the filter cartridge. The tub is already made for it and there is a dummy filter cartridge in there now.

I have looked at the drape over systems, and they are cheaper...but I know that Hot Springs will make the filter cartridge for my tub and I don't have to worry about the product just going away. It's also way simpler to have it built into my control panel and just have a built in cartridge to change out. I'm not sure what the saltron mini cartridges cost, but I can get a full year of the Hot Springs system online for $289. Considering that chlorine granules will most likely cost me around $120 per year, the difference isn't so great that I'm concerned with it. It would also be great to have a system that somewhat maintains itself. We have a saltwater bay boat and take it down to the Gulf coast several times a year. When we are gone for a week or 10 days at a time, I don't want to have to worry about coming home to a green hot tub. The salt system should, at least, keep it stabilized to some extent, for that stretch of time, with no bathing load.

I wonder if they make those cartages a disposable item on purpose. Normally you can clean the plates if they become loaded with deposits. As long as they are not eroded or clogged, SWCG do not get "used up"

I do like integrated systems, but on the other hand I don't like being beholden to a specific part that is only made by one manufacturer.

 

[mayberry32]

I wonder if they make those cartages a disposable item on purpose. Normally you can clean the plates if they become loaded with deposits. As long as they are not eroded or clogged, SWCG do not get "used up"

I do like integrated systems, but on the other hand I don't like being beholden to a specific part that is only made by one manufacturer.

I have wondered the same thing. On my pool, I have a Pentair SWCG and I just clean the plates off every six months or so with muriatic acid. The cell lasts probably 5 to 7 years. Maybe it’s because the plates are so small that they last a much shorter amount of time?

Like I said, I know the aftermarket system would be cheaper, both upfront, and in the long-term. But, not having to drake the plate over inside the hot tub, remove it when and use, and have another cord stretch out across my patio would be beneficial. The simplicity of the built-in system seems like a really nice feature, especially since my control panel can be moved around the hot tub and is Bluetooth. Being integrated into that instead of having another control panel is really awesome, too.

 

[Mdragger88]

My tub is "salt-system ready", so it's an easy change. They swap out the control board to account for the salt system and insert the filter cartridge. The tub is already made for it and there is a dummy filter cartridge in there now.

I have looked at the drape over systems, and they are cheaper...but I know that Hot Springs will make the filter cartridge for my tub and I don't have to worry about the product just going away. It's also way simpler to have it built into my control panel and just have a built in cartridge to change out. I'm not sure what the saltron mini cartridges cost, but I can get a full year of the Hot Springs system online for $289. Considering that chlorine granules will most likely cost me around $120 per year, the difference isn't so great that I'm concerned with it. It would also be great to have a system that somewhat maintains itself. We have a saltwater bay boat and take it down to the Gulf coast several times a year. When we are gone for a week or 10 days at a time, I don't want to have to worry about coming home to a green hot tub. The salt system should, at least, keep it stabilized to some extent, for that stretch of time, with no bathing load.

I use maybe 1# of dichlor granules a year. It’s $12-$14 for a 1# bottle @ Walmart. You are supposed to discontinue it when cya gets to 30ppm. I use it occasionally, every week or two, to replenish cya.
The rest is liquid chlorine (generally around 1-2 oz at a time) & the swg doing the job. All of my saltron mini cells have lasted 18 months or more. They used to be $99 but are now $150. I don’t remove my cell when I get in. The strongest thing I have ever cleaned a swg cell with is 50/50 vinegar & water. My ch is between 25-50 so scaling isn’t a problem.
I also only purge, drain, & refill every 6months or so.
Unfortunately with those proprietary hot springs cartridges many find they don’t last as long as they claim to.

 

[mayberry32]

I use maybe 1# of dichlor granules a year. It’s $12-$14 for a 1# bottle @ Walmart. You are supposed to discontinue it when cya gets to 30ppm. I use it occasionally, every week or two, to replenish cya.
The rest is liquid chlorine (generally around 1-2 oz at a time) & the swg doing the job. All of my saltron mini cells have lasted 18 months or more. They used to be $99 but are now $150. I don’t remove my cell when I get in. The strongest thing I have ever cleaned a swg cell with is 50/50 vinegar & water. My ch is between 25-50 so scaling isn’t a problem.
I also only purge, drain, & refill every 6months or so.
Unfortunately with those proprietary hot springs cartridges many find they don’t last as long as they claim to.

I heard horrible things about the old ACE Salt System. Reviews of the newer Freshwater Salt System seem to be better. But, the cells not lasting as advertised would be concerning, for sure. They are already expensive. But, if it makes the water more easy to deal with, it might be worth it. Looking for real world feedback on salt system maintenance vs chlorine.

Right now, I'm having to add several teaspoons of chlorine granules after every time I use the tub. More for more people and a bit less if it's just me. My wife and I spent about an hour in last night and I added 2.5 teaspoons.....the amount that is typically suggested to add to take the tub from 0 to 5ppm. This morning, I woke up and it was back down to .5, so I had to add more. Then, this afternoon, it was back down to 2 again. So, I had to add more. Got it back up to 5, and then spent 30 minutes in the tub tonight. Added 2.5 teaspoons after that. We'll see where I am in the morning.

The water is a TON clearer after purging with Ahhsome. But I still feel like I'm having to add chemicals daily....sometimes more than once a day. That seems excessive.

 

[Mdragger88]

Here’s what 2.5 tsp of dichlor adds to your water assuming you have 450 gallons (updating your signature helps us help you )

You never wanna fall below 2ppm fc - even with low cya. Most who manually dose find that raising fc to near slam level after soaking allows for their current bather waste & allows them to stay above minimum before or even through their next use.

 

[mayberry32]

Here’s what 2.5 tsp of dichlor adds to your water assuming you have 450 gallons (updating your signature helps us help you )
View attachment 457629
You never wanna fall below 2ppm fc - even with low cya. Most who manually dose find that raising fc to near slam level after soaking allows for their current bather waste & allows them to stay above minimum before or even through their next use.

That's what I'm seeing. That's what I don't like. I'll check again in the morning, but I'm fairly certain it'll drop low again. So, if 2.5 tsp raises it by 5ppm, what level should I get it up to overnight to get to near slam level?

 

[Mdragger88]

According to poolmath it’s more like 4ppm if the volume is correct - I just googled the hot tub you have to come up with 450 gal.
Is the dichlor you have 99% - 100% dichlor? That can make a difference too & mean you aren’t dosing as much as you think you are. Some is not but that’s the only option in poolmath.
For cya of 20 or below- minimum is 2ppm & slam level is 10ppm. Anywhere in between is safe for you & your tub.
Whatever amount of dichlor you intend to use ALWAYS check effects of adding 1st so you don’t accidentally tank your ph & you can record your calculated cya. If your ph can’t take the hit due to the amount of fc you need to add use liquid chlorine instead.

 

[mayberry32]

According to poolmath it’s more like 4ppm if the volume is correct - I just googled the hot tub you have to come up with 450 gal.
Is the dichlor you have 99% - 100% dichlor? That can make a difference too & mean you aren’t dosing as much as you think you are. Some is not but that’s the only option in poolmath.
For cya of 20 or below- minimum is 2ppm & slam level is 10ppm. Anywhere in between is safe for you & your tub.
Whatever amount of dichlor you intend to use ALWAYS check effects of adding 1st so you don’t accidentally tank your ph & you can record your calculated cya. If your ph can’t take the hit due to the amount of fc you need to add use liquid chlorine instead.

So, another stupid question for you, since this is my first hot tub. If I need to add chlorine every night after using the hot tub, how long do I let the hot tub run after getting out and adding chlorine before I can shut it down and put the cover back on? I have read 20-30 minutes, but no one wants to run a hot tub for 30 minutes in the cold after getting out and then go back outside to shut it down. Is that what is needed, or is it okay to add chlorine, run for a few minutes and shut it down?

 

[Mdragger88]

10-20 minutes is usually sufficient-30 minutes is ideal.
it’s so the cc’s produced from the fc’s reaction to the recent bather waste don’t get trapped under the cover. The chems themselves are mixed in a matter of minutes.
I dose immediately upon getting out & then dry off all the way etc. go change or whatever & come back. I am often hot afterwards so I sit on the patio for a bit anyway. In the dead of winter I just close it up after drying off & try to open the tub occasionally if I am outdoors to allow cc’s to escape.
In both scenarios (temperate & cold weather) I generally get sorta dry, throw on my robe, lose the suit & then dry fully all on the patio because a wet suit makes you instantly cold & I don’t like running in the house sopping wet. This takes some time.
If I leave the tub open & go inside I make sure I leave the patio light on so I remember to go back out.
The idea is just don’t always dose & close it up - the off gassing of cc’s will eventually damage the cover, head rests etc. if you make a habit of this.
In extreme weather conditions you may need to wrap things up quickly but otherwise make a habit of letting it “air out” for a little bit.

 

[phonedave]

I have wondered the same thing. On my pool, I have a Pentair SWCG and I just clean the plates off every six months or so with muriatic acid. The cell lasts probably 5 to 7 years. Maybe it’s because the plates are so small that they last a much shorter amount of time?

Like I said, I know the aftermarket system would be cheaper, both upfront, and in the long-term. But, not having to drake the plate over inside the hot tub, remove it when and use, and have another cord stretch out across my patio would be beneficial. The simplicity of the built-in system seems like a really nice feature, especially since my control panel can be moved around the hot tub and is Bluetooth. Being integrated into that instead of having another control panel is really awesome, too.

Honestly, if somebody said to me they could put an integrated system in my tub, but I would have to put a new plate in ever 3 months, I would buy it.

I am of the same mindset. I don't want to drape it over, have a cord running across the patio, and an other control panel.

 

[mayberry32]

So, hopefully someone can help with this. When I got home tonight from Coaching a little league baseball game, the green light was off on my tub, staying the temp wasn’t working within 2°of where it was set. The setting on the tub was 100 °. When I took off the cover, the control panel read 88°. It was clearly warmer than that. I turned on the Jets and climbing immediately, all the way up to 100°, within a minute. I have noticed this once or twice. What could cause this?

 

[mayberry32]

Honestly, if somebody said to me they could put an integrated system in my tub, but I would have to put a new plate in ever 3 months, I would buy it.

I am of the same mindset. I don't want to drape it over, have a cord running across the patio, and an other control panel.

So, let me ask you this, since you seem to have a ton of experience in this area. Would you leave the tub chlorine, or would you convert to salt, if the money weren’t a consideration?

The chlorine isn’t really bothering my skin. I truly feel like the non chlorine shock was what made me break out. The day after I put that in, my back was a bumpy, itching mess. Since purging with Ahhsome and starting over, I’ve been fine. But I’m having to add chlorine after every single use. And what do I do to eliminate the CC’s and to replace the weekly shock, if I want to continue using the tub every day and not taking days off?

 

[PoolBrews]

First, a salt system is still chlorine - it's just a far easier method of maintaining the proper chlorine levels. I would convert to salt in a heartbeat. It's far easier to care for. If you can get a built in system for your hot tub that would be the best. I have a Saltron Mini. I have an outlet right behind my hot tub, so no cords running around, just a single cord over the top of the hot tub. It's in the back, and right where my cover comes together, so not that noticeable.

Generally, the chlorine level for a salt system is kept lower than when using liquid chlorine, and the potential for skin irritation is much lower.

 

[phonedave]

So, hopefully someone can help with this. When I got home tonight from Coaching a little league baseball game, the green light was off on my tub, staying the temp wasn’t working within 2°of where it was set. The setting on the tub was 100 °. When I took off the cover, the control panel read 88°. It was clearly warmer than that. I turned on the Jets and climbing immediately, all the way up to 100°, within a minute. I have noticed this once or twice. What could cause this?

I am not familiar with your model tub, but it sounds like that wherever the water temperature probe is located has some sort of air bubble that is cleared when you run the jets. Either that, or maybe your temperature probe is just failing