New Homeowner - TFT-100 Test Results

No need to retest, but in the future keep adding drops until there is no color further change. Don't count the last drop that didn't change the color. With the CH test, you may different shades of blue.

Yes. Drain as much as you can. A 75% drain will get your CYA to 50 ppm, a good level for a So Cal non-SWG pool. CH level will decrease from 1700 ppm to 550 ppm when refilling with CH 175 ppm water.

I'm not sure, but it should be okay?

Draining in the middle of summer can dry and crack the plaster surface. It needs to remain moist, but it's gonna take at least 15 hours to drain 10,000+ gallons (@700 GPH).

Depending on how high the water table is in your area, there is a slight risk of the pool shell popping out of the ground.

See the article on draining for additional info:

I will keep these tips in mind next time. Looks like I need to do some research draining the pool.

I plan to use a submersible pump removing water from the deep end and filling from the shallow end since the water temperature is relatively same.

Can I do this across a week timeframe? The article indicates that the drain and fill should not be stopped until complete.
 
I plan to use a submersible pump removing water from the deep end and filling from the shallow end since the water temperature is relatively same.
Okay. You're doing a No Drain Water Exchange. It's covered in the Draining article.

Let us know how things go.
 
Hi Everyone,
Finally had a chance to drain and fill the pool. Drained and filled about ~75% of the pool water. Did this during the night so heat was not too much of an issue keeping the water level consistent throughout. Pumped using a submersible pump on the deep side and filled in the shallow side using a five gallon bucket and two garden hoses.

I brushed the walls of the pool and vacuum the floors afterwards. Have kept the pump running on middle speed (~2300-1800 rpm). The water looked cloudy but is becoming clearer. I tested and below are the results.

CYA: 40-50
CH: 600 ppm
CL BR: .5 - 1 ppm
pH: 8.2
TA: 170 ppm

My CYA and CH are reduced as you all predicted! All the work paid off ;) ! My TA and pH is somewhat high. High TA results in higher pH is what I have read. My chlorine level is also low.

What do you all suggest next to balance out the measurements?
 
Your CH level is still high at 600 ppm. I know it's challenging, but it would be in your best interest to continue reducing the CH level. You can disregard and continue as is, but you'll likely need to drain next season...unless you can reduce the CH of your fill water by connecting to softened water. You can continue with the current level and enjoy the rest of the season by managing CSI levels. Any thoughts on this?

Your CYA is good range. 40 is better than 50. Can you narrow down a number?

You'll likely have to SLAM with cloudy water and signs of visible algae. You'll need a good CYA reading to achieve to establish FC SLAM level. You can confirm the presence of algae by completing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
 
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Thanks again for your inputs! I will plan to drain and refill towards the end of the season. Used up quite a bit of water already. I redid the CYA in a brighter area and the CYA is reading more like 40.

I am planning to add muriatic acid to reduce the pH to 7.8. Afterwards, looking to add about a gallon of liquid chlorine and see how much chlorine is being lost.
 
Your CH level is still high at 600 ppm. I know it's challenging, but it would be in your best interest to continue reducing the CH level.

Hi, Chips here again. I am looking into getting an RV water softener as you all recommended. Looking at the On the Go Double model for water refills as some have installed. The Park model would be a better option but can't justify the cost and portability.

Wanted to ask if this is an acceptable way to go to keep the CH levels lower. I am also contemplating of replacing 5-10% of the water throughout time (~6-8 months?) using this method to lower levels. Thoughts?

Appreciate all the help and tips that you have provided! Thanks again for all your help!
 
I have the On the Go Double model. Works well. I get 700 gallons or so before the CH coming out hits 100 ppm CH. That is with 250 ppm CH/ 16 gpg input water.
 
I have the On the Go Double model. Works well. I get 700 gallons or so before the CH coming out hits 100 ppm CH. That is with 250 ppm CH/ 16 gpg input water.
Thanks again! I did see your autofill setup. My install would be for a manual. I could see this running about a month before I would have to regen. My calculations shows to be ~10-11 gpg with a 175 ppm CH. I will try this out and see how things go~
 

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I have the same one as @mknauss
Similar to your idea, I manage my CH via using it and planning to do small drain and fills now and then if my CH starts to edge up more than I’m comfortable. I only recently started using my softener for top offs so haven’t done the regeneration yet. I can’t recall when I’m supposed to do that. I think 1600 gallons?
 
I have the same one as @mknauss
Similar to your idea, I manage my CH via using it and planning to do small drain and fills now and then if my CH starts to edge up more than I’m comfortable. I only recently started using my softener for top offs so haven’t done the regeneration yet. I can’t recall when I’m supposed to do that. I think 1600 gallons?
Thanks for the follow-up! Looks like the west coast has hard water problems. Below are the regen numbers provided for the On the Go Double. Your estimate looks inline with what they are advertising.

Hardness (GPG)Capacity in Gallons
53,200
72,285
111,454
151,066
25640
58275
 
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