Let me ask you this......can you pull the water for your flowers or grass? Just a little at a time then refill. It will take longer but much safer for your pool in the long run.
Kim
Kim
(my pool seems to drop CYA like a rock).
There is a chlorine neutralizer already in the Taylor (and TF-100) kits for the TA test. The R-0007 reagent is sodium thiosulfate which is a chlorine neutralizer. This is done to neutralize the chlorine for the TA test. However, such neutralizer solutions are themselves high in pH and the reactions with chlorine are inconsistent in their effects on pH (depending on factors such as the TA level). So while you can add some R-0007 before adding the pH reagent, you may still get a "too high" reading, though at least you won't get the bleached-out half-indicator result of purple. You can certainly add a couple of drops of R-0007 to see what it does -- just don't trust the final result.
What if you dilute the sample 1 to 1 with distilled water. The FC level will be half of what it was before, and the PH shift from the dilution should be quite small because the TA level of distilled water is very low. It should even be possible to calculate what the PH shift from the dilution will be and correct for it.
Testing pH with high chlorine levelsThe key to making dilution with water work is that the water really does need to be distilled water because it must be unbuffered. Otherwise, it will have a large effect on pH, so one cannot use tap or filtered water since they have too much TA (i.e. buffering). Distilled water cuts down all concentrations by an equal amount. However, water itself will dissociate to fill in for any reduction in hydrogen and hydroxyl ions with their product remaining the same. Mostly though, the main pH buffer relationships have their ratios the same so they keep the pH the same. I'll work on this, but I think the pH remains essentially the same so would be a good approach, assuming one dilutes to get the FC below 10 ppm -- say to 5 ppm FC for safety.