New GFCI Breaker for Pump Tripping on Startup

[jbird0215]

In my sig but heater is gas. Have one led and just replaced the other led with an incandescent because the colorlogics don’t exactly win any longevity awards. Lights are on the same circuit. I also have some funky fiber optic lights on the other circuit.

I’m going to guess that the lights are LED and the heater is gas, but you might want to specify that for JamesW.

 

[JamesW]

@JamesW will the other GFCIs need to be replaced as well or just the one for the pump? The lights are working fine and I haven’t fired up the heater yet to see if there are any breaker issues but will try it tomorrow.

I'm not sure why they went with arc fault breakers. I don't know if it's going to be a problem with the other breakers or not.

So just have to run the extra leg to the switch in the pro logic and that’s it then?

From the breaker, run one leg to the #1 relay terminal and the other leg to the #3 relay terminal.

From the #2 relay terminal, run a black or red wire to the pump L1 or L2 terminal.

From the #4 relay terminal, run the other power leg to the other pump Line terminal.

Just above the relay is a diagram showing that the #1 and #3 terminals are line in terminals and the #2 and #4 terminals are the load out terminals.

It is weird that they didn’t wire it up 230 to begin with when it’s already there.

Don't know why they did that.

It's always best to use 230 whenever it's available and will work with the appliance.

 

[jbird0215]

Competence is obviously a precious metal (or maybe Bitcoin) these days.

If it’s any consolation, I had a pool inspection on my house when we bought it two years ago as well. They missed the busted fiberglass stairs, the trashed liner and didn’t seem concerned at all about the leaking pump. All that added up to over $12k and so I basically wasted money on the inspection! My pool is old like built in the 70’s old and didn’t have a GFCI either. Also we say nothing about the weird bonding... somehow just the coping is bonded somewhere someway to the house and that all fine in the 70’s apparently.. and so was aluminum wiring but I’m not dead yet so there’s that...

 

[JamesW]

Once the wiring is done, have the electrician start the pump and check the voltage and current to make sure that they are correct.

 

[jbird0215]

Will do. There needs to be a @JamesW in every major metropolitan area in the country. You’d be instantly hired if you were anywhere near the Nashville area. Appreciate your sound and thorough advice.

Once the wiring is done, have the electrician start the pump and check the voltage and current to make sure that they are correct.

 

[JamesW]

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Michael1]

Your bonding wire looks pretty corroded. I would take it off, and use some sand paper to clean all the connections.

 

[JamesW]

Your bonding wire looks pretty corroded. I would take it off, and use some sand paper to clean all the connections.

Probably not worth messing with.

 

[jbird0215]

Let us know how it goes.

Since it was theorized that the breaker type (both arc and ground fault) may be the issue, I had the breaker replaced to a GFCI-only as an initial step. Knock on wood, but so far it has worked flawlessly with no trips. I'll definitely upgrade the breaker to 240v when this motor quits. Since we have a whole house flooring project about to start, I think I'll kick that can down the road. Thanks @JamesW and all the others for weighing in. Now on to solve my LO error code on the gas heater. I'll start a new thread if I encounter any issues with that problem.