I’m about to hop off-line shortly, so here’s some info to get you going ……..
Your signature shows a salt water generator (SWG), so one of two things will happen. If you haven't added salt yet and started the SWG, you'll be manually chlorinating at first. Basically adding either regular bleach or liquid pool chlorine (same thing) to the water each day or evening to maintain the proper Free Chlorine (FC) level for your current CYA as noted on the
[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] . That's key to avoiding algae.
-- So here’s what you need to do now with
clear/clean water:
1. New water has no CYA (stabilizer) to protect the chlorine from the sun and to buffer the chlorine around the pool. So add stabilizer for a starting CYA goal of 70. You can get stabilizer at pool sections in places like Walmart, Lowe’s, or Home Depot among others. (see note below)
2. Test/adjust the pH to the mid-7s for now. General rule of thumb is never let it go over 7.8. We use muriatic acid to lower pH.
3. Increase the FC level to keep the water clear & sanitized. Always go back to the
[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to confirm what your FC level should be based on your current CYA. If the SWG isn't producing enough chlorine yet, either regular bleach or liquid pool chlorine will work until you get the SWG and pump run times figured out. When you use bleach, make sure it is regular/plain with NO splashless, scented, or fabric/polymer additives.
4. If you haven't added salt yet, make sure to use the
PoolMath to help you with it and all dosage amounts.
5.
Test kit! The proper test kit is a
MUST. We recommend either the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C (link below). They serve as the foundation for everything you do, and their accuracy pays for themselves. Stay away from pool store “free testing” or special/over-priced products. Everything you need is in the Vital Links section below in my signature.
-- If your water has been sitting for a while and gotten stale, green, dirty, or hazy, you probably have algae. You will need to perform a TFP
SLAM Process. One of those proper test kits will be a necessity to conduct the SLAM. For a
SLAM Process, the pH must be lowered (first) to about 7.2 before starting the SLAM. You can still add stabilizer, but only increase it to a target of 30, then increase your FC to the SLAM/Shock level of “12”. You’ll maintain that elevated FC level (with the proper test kit) until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. Everything you need to know from there is on that
SLAM Process page.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the
Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
Just installed (empty), or has it been filled with water for a while? If so, what does the water look like? Any chemicals added yet?