New DIY Build Underway

[Tbwonder]

So, how much would you rather have the suction side come in on the end? Is it worth cutting, couplings and moving the risers over 8”? I mean it’s just plastic...but...ya know?

Also I have 3 surface returns....and 3 deep returns. Should I plumb the heater to just deliver through the 3 deep returns? Is that better for heat? Or better to spread among all 6?

I

I drew up these options. One is more complicated I think. But Option 2 has a 4 way in it that may just naturally push more hot water through the deep returns on that side of the manifold...while still blending all 6 returns with the SWG...Option 3 feeds hot in one side, salt in another...maybe forcing more heat down the deep return side.

Thoughts? How the he’ll do I do this??

final phase here so I really appreciate all these small frequent answers...it’s really really helpful to have this support.

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[jimmythegreek]

Not worth cutting anything to come in on the end. If you can plumb it in naturally I like it there makes a cleaner pad when you step in to do work and figure repairs. Dont use any 4way cross fittings. They will make the flow wacky. Come in to either manifold anywhere just equal space the feed T amongst other Ts as close as possible between them. Theres no reason to balance anything above your 2ways. Once running you can fine tune the returns as you want you have home runs and zone valving on each line. That's exactly how I do it and it works very well. I even remove the handles when dialed in and set them horizontal so it looks even, but internally I'm choking off slightly on different lines.....I'm OCD with this stuff. Like I said I wont let the plumber touch the piping he just cuts and glues and pulls the gas permit. Hes almost to the point he knows what I want only been 3 yrs now

 

[Tbwonder]

Not worth cutting anything to come in on the end. If you can plumb it in naturally I like it there makes a cleaner pad when you step in to do work and figure repairs. Dont use any 4way cross fittings. They will make the flow wacky. Come in to either manifold anywhere just equal space the feed T amongst other Ts as close as possible between them. Theres no reason to balance anything above your 2ways. Once running you can fine tune the returns as you want you have home runs and zone valving on each line. That's exactly how I do it and it works very well. I even remove the handles when dialed in and set them horizontal so it looks even, but internally I'm choking off slightly on different lines.....I'm OCD with this stuff. Like I said I wont let the plumber touch the piping he just cuts and glues and pulls the gas permit. Hes almost to the point he knows what I want only been 3 yrs now

Ok....any thoughts on separating out the heat? Should I pipe the heater to feed through the 3 deep returns somehow? Is this more efficient with the heat to have it come in deep?

how to do this? Or is there a way to sort of set it up so that more of the heat tends to flow into the first three return lines like this??

 

[jimmythegreek]

Pipe it like normal. The water balances itself with temperature. Usually on deep pools with heat I do one per side of hopper down low. With 3 it will be no issue. You want heat everywhere not focused in just deep returns. Pipe into heater and then the swg like usual. You have zone isolation you can adjust anything at the pad with valves. If you pipe it like you show then you are stuck that way use the home run valving to your advantage

 

[Tbwonder]

Pipe it like normal. The water balances itself with temperature. Usually on deep pools with heat I do one per side of hopper down low. With 3 it will be no issue. You want heat everywhere not focused in just deep returns. Pipe into heater and then the swg like usual. You have zone isolation you can adjust anything at the pad with valves. If you pipe it like you show then you are stuck that way use the home run valving to your advantage

Thanks. As you can see I’m a little OCD too. Anything worth thinking about is worth over-thinking about ?.

 

[Tbwonder]

Pipe it like normal. The water balances itself with temperature. Usually on deep pools with heat I do one per side of hopper down low. With 3 it will be no issue. You want heat everywhere not focused in just deep returns. Pipe into heater and then the swg like usual. You have zone isolation you can adjust anything at the pad with valves. If you pipe it like you show then you are stuck that way use the home run valving to your advantage

Here it is. The SWG goes left of the heater in that space.....waiting till gas line goes in tomorrow to be sure I don’t get in the way of the gas line.

I may sleep on this pad tonight ?

 

[jimmythegreek]

Looks good. 2" for all of it you went all out. Make sure you use stone dust of sand near the pad and water it in so they dont settle and put pressure on the pipes. On those long runs some strut rod would be good for temporary support while it settles. Even some cinderblocks, wood, etc so it doeant get cockeyed in the next weeks it will move a little with backfill. I often over compensate and make it stressed up a little so when removes it falls to the right spot. Nice to see a big pad that how they should be. When u work on it down the road you'll be glad you did it like this

 

[Tbwonder]

Looks good. 2" for all of it you went all out. Make sure you use stone dust of sand near the pad and water it in so they dont settle and put pressure on the pipes. On those long runs some strut rod would be good for temporary support while it settles. Even some cinderblocks, wood, etc so it doeant get cockeyed in the next weeks it will move a little with backfill. I often over compensate and make it stressed up a little so when removes it falls to the right spot. Nice to see a big pad that how they should be. When u work on it down the road you'll be glad you did it like this

thanks. I cut and fit pipe beneath all the runs at close intervals on solid ground. I could walk on all the runs without any movement. Spent days mudding them all in by hand with wheel barrels. Wheel barreled all the backfill in 4” layers hit heavy with a plate tamper. It’s solid as can be.

 

[jimmythegreek]

Good job you can now put that to bed and move on. Best thing about done well and right is you never have to look back and wonder. I think it came out really good

 

[Tbwonder]

It’s blue. First vac. Equipment all running. No air, no leaks. Now just punch list.

 

[kimkats]

LOVE the color!!!! SWEET!

 

[Tbwonder]

LOVE the color!!!! SWEET!

Thanks! We love it.
Hey any experience with these simple “kreepy krauly” type suction cleaners? I can hand vac too when heavy....however these seem simple for everyday maintenance.


Have read a bunch here on the dolphin robots...obviously bigger $.

thoughts?

 

[kimkats]

I had a kreepy crawler and she did okay THEN I got Lil' Kim.................she ROCKS! Here is my thread about her: Pool Rover Junior review-aka Lil Kim

She is not that much more than the kreepy crawler!

 

[jimmythegreek]

Looks great. Getting water in feels huge when you DIY ing a pool. I call this point halfway on a build. It usually takes longer to do the deck and coping then punchlist. I feel getting the pool in is easier it's more forgiving the finish work is tedious.

 

[Tbwonder]

Looks great. Getting water in feels huge when you DIY ing a pool. I call this point halfway on a build. It usually takes longer to do the deck and coping then punchlist. I feel getting the pool in is easier it's more forgiving the finish work is tedious.

Yes, big picture there’s still plenty to do...but it does feel good.

I plan to finish the backfill, pack in an 8 or 10” layer of RCA, and cover with Woven geotextile. Going to let that sit and settle through a freeze/thaw and do patio early next year. Not interested in having a settling patio. I’ll get the grass fixed up, and let my body heal a bit too ?. I also want to see a little bit of how we operate around the pool....there’s a few different ways I could go with patio here.

 

[kimkats]

Here is a set of links I put together for new pool owners:

Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

I would get some cheap fake turf to put down as a walk way to help keep the dirt out of the pool.

Kim

 

[jimmythegreek]

That's what I did on my personal pool. I'm in clay country i have about 18" of DGA under my pavers.
On a side note put the geotextile under the base material it goes over the virgin ground. It's good stuff i insist on it for every job. I've used it under pools even when slimy clay is around. I have it under my whole pool and base material

 

[M3power]

How to choose liner thickness? Or which is best 27mil floor and 20mil walls or other way around? Thanks

 

[jimmythegreek]

Same thickness for all that hybrid style is just to save a few bucks. 27 or 30 is all I use. If you go that route thicker on floor

 

[Tbwonder]

jimmy...gonna maybe post a new thread but thought I’d drop back in here and ask. Hope you’re doing well where your are.

I want to hit the coping and patio as soon as we’re thawed.

question is on the coping on steel walls. The coping stones are 12” x 24”.

The steel walls are 5”top.

there’s 18” of insanely packed rca.

I’ve seen some posts where guys are pouring a 7” little concrete foundation next to steel wall, with some rebar creating a total 12” for the coping stones.

Some are then saying affix with a thin set...others say epoxy to bridge the metal wall and concrete foundation.

many thoughts here?

concrete foundation ?

epoxy or thinset?

thanks
David

Same thickness for all that hybrid style is just to save a few bucks. 27 or 30 is all I use. If you go that route thicker on floor

That's what I did on my personal pool. I'm in clay country i have about 18" of DGA under my pavers.
On a side note put the geotextile under the base material it goes over the virgin ground. It's good stuff i insist on it for every job. I've used it under pools even when slimy clay is around. I have it under my whole pool and base material