New Construction: Cathedral City CA

The OXO cup is holding up fine, I've even walked away and come back quite a bit later to a little bit of MA left in the bottom and it's fine. Most plastic is OK for MA, but some are better than others. I researched that a bit, when I was on the squirt bottle adventure (yep, that's in the thread, too). I found the chemical name for the best plastic to use on a chemist supply website. But there's usually no way to determine what something you buy elsewhere is actually made of. What I concluded, and why I settled on the MA-adding-scheme I did, is that trying to find an alternate long-term container for MA would be risky, without knowing exactly what kind of plastic it is made of. So best to keep it stored in the plastic in which it was purchased. "Lesser" plastics for the short-term measuring and pouring pose virtually no risk, especially if you do all that over the pool water. Which is the other reason I recommend not filling a measuring cup elsewhere and carrying that across your deck. And the "why" for the bucket. Mostly all overkill, but "an ounce of prevention..."

Dang it Dirk - you're making me want to skip ahead! I won't (but I want to).

Since I'm buying the BBB measuring cups today - I assume that they held up to the acid? How does one know if a plastic will hold up to m.a.?

Dirk .... as I'm typing, I just got notice of your recent addition to this thread.

"I'm going to go back to BBB and get one more than I need, too! I like it so much, and it is so perfect for how I use it, I want a spare in case I step on it or something, only to find out later that OXO has discontinued it, or changed its design or china-cheaped-it-out, like they tend to do.

But that's just me. Sometimes when I find the perfect thing, or the perfect fit, or whatever, I can't help myself, I'll go buy more of it/them, just so I'll never be without. Just one of my many burdens... :crazy:"

We do live in parallel universes ...
York
 
Today's question/s

Administering the stabilizer inside the skimmer in a zippered laundry bag. I picked this one up at bed bath & beyond. Can't tell if the zipper is metal or plastic. I assume metal is NOT good. Also, I just opened the package of stabilizer and the granules look small enough to fall through the mesh - that can't be good ... right?

I'm thinking I'm going to do my best to use the nylon skimmer sock I got. I've read that I should squeeze it periodically to help it dissolve - can I do this with my bare hands, or do I need gloves?

Zippered.jpg
 
I don't think a metal zipper is a problem for the short term CYA task, but that mesh is definitely not going to work. The CYA needs to dissolve considerably more than the original granule size, like a fine mist of powder, before it leave the sock or bag. This is what I used, from Walmart:

Evercare Laundry Wash Bags Delicates, 1.0 CT - Walmart.com

It was in "the thread" but just a somewhat obscure blue link in the middle of a paragraph. It's a very fine mesh, and probably very similar to the skimmer sock you're talking about.

I put the zippered end outside of the skimmer, up on the deck, crimped in place by the skimmer hatch, which on my pool is a slug of concrete, so it's like a rock. That was an added protection to keep the bag from getting sucked into the skimmer's pipe, though because of the basket that would be a freak occurrence. Not the weight of the hatch, but rather the way it was crimped in there, where it wouldn't slip through even with a strong pull from below. Just an extra "good practice" measure. You knowz how I likes 'em!
 
Morning,

Yesterday the pavers were about 70% done and should be complete on Monday, and the irrigation system is being restored. Progress (I NEED THAT)

I bough most the chemicals we should have on stock, but held off on the salt. Our contract says the PB is in charge on managing the pool for the first 30 days, But I can’t imagine that on day 30 and the salt systems is supposed to startup, that they just leave that up to me. (Though I know ya’ll have my back here.) If a huge amount of salt needs to be added at first, I think that would be on their nickel :).

Yesterday, we took a break and went out to see a late afternoon film. Knowing we’d be gone when the pool guy came by. We sent instructions as to here we would leave the gate key and specific instructions to brush the bottom and steps of the pool. I also added that we DO NOT want him to use the metal brush again (starting the paper trail). We also asked for his test strip results and the chemistry he put in. I should confess that I did not test or add any chemistry yesterday. The crew got here very early and while the pool is under their control, I prefer to not look like I’m doing anything to the pool.

When we got home the pool guy was just leaving (it was past sunset). His note about the tests read as follows:
Total Chlorine 3 +1/2 lb

FC - 3
pH - 7.0 + 3 count of acid
Alkalinity - Will stabilize alkalinity next week.

Not sure how to interpret his reading/notes, but thought I should take my own readings this morning
FC - 14.5
pH - 7.2
TA - 70
CH - 290
CYA - 30

I’m assuming that he figured since we are having hot weather AND he was not going to be around again until Tuesday having the chlorine so high was fine. Since his two previous times of forgetting or not having chlorine to put in the pool, I think I will send of an email to the PB that I’d like to manage the chlorine in between their pool guys visits.

Other than the high FC I think I’m looking good and spared (at least for now), my fear of adding m.a. I need to get back to Dirks post, I know there will be many “pearls“ there.

I’m heading out now to give the pool a good brushing.




 
Yep, no MA today! ;)

Excellent instincts and executions. I like the pool guy instructions. I like you double-checking his work. I like the notion of getting the PB to turn over the chlorine detail to you. And I especially like that you knew about the MA! How cool is it to know what's in your pool, and what it does and doesn't need!? Great work! I think you're striking an excellent balance between honoring the contract/warranty and taking control of your pool.

Your guess about the high FC is probably right on, and exposes the fallacy of the weekly pool guy business model: just blast the pool with chlorine and hope that lasts until the next visit!

I've been pretty obsessive about my CSI since start up. Have you been tracking that? Learning about that? I'll defer to Kim on that, and that low pH. But from what I've learned here: low CSI means your plaster could be at risk of etching and corrosion, high CSI means your plaster could be at risk of calcium scaling. Low pH contributes to low CSI, and vice versa. I was, am, especially concerned about CSI while my pebble is curing. Probably more than I need to be, but I figure if I can manipulate my pool to a great CSI, why not try? These CSI tendencies don't happen overnight, so no big alarm or anything. Just introducing you to one of your upcoming lessons. I'm sure Kim will get into that in due time... And of course, there's a chapter or two about that in the Adventures of Dirk saga!! ;)

Have a great weekend!
 
I've seen Pool Math's calculation of CSI, but sorta ignored it. I read that if everything else was inline, the CSI would be fine. But I also now read that + or -.3 is the range and 0 is the target. Today my CSI is -.530, two days ago it was +.21 - three days ago -.13 - six days ago -.31.

I do need to get more regular when I test and when I put the chemistry in. After I'm done testing the morning after the pool guys additions, I plan on testing late in the afternoon around 5pm.

Could the higher CSI be a reaction to very high chlorine level?
 
I'm in a rush just now. Don't do anything right now for your CSI. That lowish score today (and it's not a bad one per se) will correct itself as the pH naturally rises with your new plaster. All is well. All the other CSI numbers have been fine. A little bump, like the -.530 can happen, for just one day: no worries. More later...
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Hey Dirk - I started reading your "getting ready for SWG" thread just now and came across the discussion of the speed to set a VS pump. The PB set ours at 2500 rpms. As I mentioned before they set it to go for 12 hours a day, Not sure what is "normal", and I don't what to open that door right now as that info will just get lost in my long list of notes of notes. BUT what I did want to mention is I did a test with running that pump for one hour between 3-4am, when there is little variation in our electric consumption. Consistently it uses 1kwh per hour.

Do you know how much energy your pump uses per hour? (what speed your pump is set to for general filtration)
 
Hey Dirk - I started reading your "getting ready for SWG" thread just now and came across the discussion of the speed to set a VS pump. The PB set ours at 2500 rpms. As I mentioned before they set it to go for 12 hours a day, Not sure what is "normal", and I don't what to open that door right now as that info will just get lost in my long list of notes of notes. BUT what I did want to mention is I did a test with running that pump for one hour between 3-4am, when there is little variation in our electric consumption. Consistently it uses 1kwh per hour.

Do you know how much energy your pump uses per hour? (what speed your pump is set to for general filtration)


Start here.

ScreenLogic gives me power usage in watts for any given RPM. I presume that's data from the pump, but I don't know that for sure. I don't know how that's calculated: if it's actual watts, or based on some algorithm that is using RPMs.

I have speeds of 500, 900, 1500, 1900 and 2200, for different purposes. But I don't use any of those "for general filtration."

Besides, asking me about my RPMs, and energy use, would be about as useful as asking me what RPM my engine was turning to get me up a hill in exactly 15 minutes, so that you could use the same throttle in your car, to achieve the same gas mileage. Well what kind of vehicle do we each have? Size of tires? What gear are we in? How many people are in the car and how many kegs of beer are in the trunk? Every pool is different and each has its own set of variables that affect optimum RPM setting(s).

You'll work it backwards, as I did. First off, I have a solar heater, an SWG and a cleaner. Each needs its own flow rate, and so their own RPM setting. I adjusted the RPMs as I watched my FlowVis until I got the proper flow for each device. So I don't start with RPM to see if that's going to work or not, I start with the device and it's actual flow need and then find the RPM that provides that flow. I don't expect most others do it that way, because most others can't determine flow on the fly like that. (And that's why I think a flow meter is as fundamental to running pool equipment properly as a filter's pressure valve is.)

I don't worry about "general filtration" because during swim season my solar runs the show. The panels need 40GPM of flow. That takes 2200RPM to achieve. The solar runs enough during the day to achieve the temp I want, so that more than covers sanitation and water filtering. When solar is not active (because there's not enough sun out), or not needed (because the pool is warm enough), then the SWG runs the show. Mine requires 21GPM to operate correctly (which takes 1500RPM in my pool), which is also enough for sanitation and filtering. During the night, my vac runs, which needs its own unique amount of flow, or 1900RPM, and that is also providing circulation and filtration. See? So I don't have, or need any "general filtration" cycle and corresponding RPM setting, because that's already covered, in spades, by other cycles.

Until you need or want to heat your pool, your SWG will be running your show. Whatever minimum flow your SWG needs will determine the RPM you'll run, and that will be your pool's sanitation and water filtering cycle, so you won't have a need for a separate general filtering mode either. Once the SWG puts out enough chlorine, you'll just schedule your pump to shut down. That'll more than cover your sanitation needs.

If you find that's not enough for either the water clarity you want, or the skimming your surface needs, you'll then start ramping up the RPMs until those needs are met. Or you can do a combo: a medium speed to satisfy your SWG and the water clarity you want, and then maybe some short "high speed" skimmer cycles, hour, or half hour, once or twice a day, whatever, to "polish" the surface of whatever it collects. There are as many ways to set this up as there are pools. There is nothing "general" about it.

So again, you'll work backwards, with what you need the pool equipment to do (filter, skimmer, vac, SWG) and dial up the RPM until those systems are performing as you want. Some systems will need what they need to function, the rest are determined by your personal preference, for your particular pool. It's why I started you off with the pump runtime article, because runtime and pump speeds go hand in hand, in that it doesn't take a lot of either to achieve sanitation, the rest is just personal preference.

One thing to know about an SWG, that it took me a while to wrap my head around: once the SWG's minimum flow requirement is met, it doesn't matter the RPMs. It puts the same amount of chlorine into your pool at 25GPM as it would at 40GPM. Doesn't matter. The only reason the minimum flow exists, I think, is to keep too much super-chlorinated water from collecting in any one place.

One caution... which I learned from one of the TFP experts. It's common, and maybe desirable by some (you, maybe, based on your questions about energy) to dial a VS pump way down low, because you want to save money. I'll use an extreme example to prove a point. You could dial that pump down to 100 RPM and boy that'd be a low electric bill that month. But that pump has to move a lot of water through a lot of pipe to 3 or 4 returns. What do you think the force is going to be like at each return if you run that low? You'd be sacrificing circulation, filtration and sanitation (because your chlorine would never get mixed around) just to save on electricity. Not actually such a bargain. A higher RPM, which will provide more of all those things, will actually be the better "value" because your pool water will be cleaner and healthier. So lower is not always better. Cheaper is just, well, cheap.

Any help?
 
Good morning!

Dirk, thanks for the info on RPM and GPM. I need to hold off absorbing that at this point, but when the time comes (and I have the bandwidth) I’ll start learning more about rpm and gpm and know I will have questions :).

For now, I’m REALLY confused about my FC readings this morning. Up until now they have made total sense to me, in that, I record what my drop test indicates, I use pMath for the amount of chlorine I need to put in (generally late afternoon) for my desired target of 6.0. I re check the FC the next morning and my reading is spot on.

That is until this morning. Some recent history…

Friday 6pm - pool guy put chlorine in - the pump turned off 4 hours later.

Saturday 7am - I tested it and the FC was 14.5 (fairly typical when he adds chlorine)

Sunday 7am - I tested the FC and it was 18.0… WHAT? after a full day in the sun it went UP, that is not possible.
So I retested it and got a reading of 13.5 (geeze Louise). If my second test this morning IS correct, than that would indicate only a 1.0 drop., certainly better than an increase, but 1 point drop after a day in desert sun still seems low. I’ve never tested twice (back-to-back). So I’m wondering what are the variables?

Was my 14.5 test incorrect? Maybe the FC was much higher Saturday morning, and after a day in the hot sun, it reduced to 16, that would make sense - BUT if that is the case, the I still have the issue with the dramatic difference between the back to back tests this morning, argh!

I only use the beaker marked chorine for this test. I rinse multiple times after each use, use a fresh paper towel to dry it off.

One thing that I started doing different (starting on Saturday morning) was to collect a couple cups of pool water (elbow deep from the deep end), in a measuring cup to use for my testing in our kitchen. I rinse the measuring cup in pool water a few times first.

Both days I did a back-up test the OTO Chlorine tester, both times the color was orange, not yellow (indicating very high chlorine), I believe today it was a lighter orange.

One other variable might be that I possibly ran the Saturday morning’s test after I ran the pump for an hour - this morning (Sunday), the pump had not started its daily cycle.

Could the amount of R-0870 powder cause the differences in this morning’s back-to-back test? I thought I read that an extra scoop of powder would not impact the test (all of my FC tests I just use a single heaping spoon full).

I will wait for the pump to run for an hour and to back-to-back tests again.
 
I bet you were all :shock: what in the world?????????? Try to make sure the pump is on for about 30 mins before you pull any water for tests. It can make a difference.

I am going to share some tips to help you have consistent results in your testing. You are already doing the main thing....rinsing and being careful about what you put in what. Good job.

-pump on for about 30 mins before pulling water

-Elbow deep to get the water

-water from about the same place each time

-hold the droppers of regents straight up and down to help keep the drops consistent.

-know there is a +/- for each test so don't sweat it if there is a slight difference (your difference was not slight so.........do question what happened)

Lets see if these tips help with your tests being a little more consistent.

Kim:kim:
 
Mornin' Kim. Thanks for the tips. I just finished my tests before seeing your tips - so the only difference between my early morning tests and this second round is that the pump was on for about 90 minutes.

FC - 15 (tested twice and both times were the same ((grin))
CC - 0
pH - 7.5
TA - 60 (Target 70 - suggests to add 1lb 7oz of baking soda)
CH - 230 (Target preset was auto filled at 400, though above that is shows 250-350. I changed it to 300 - suggests 6lbs calcium chloride)
CYA - 40

I'm already utilize all the tips you suggested except I generally have the reagent bottle at a slight angle. I will start holding it straight up and down.
 
Dirk, thanks for the info on RPM and GPM. I need to hold off absorbing that at this point, but when the time comes (and I have the bandwidth) I’ll start learning more about rpm and gpm and know I will have questions

Your pump is fine, chem's are good, CSI is fine. We'll fine tune that stuff as your bandwidth allows...
 
Thanks Kim, I'm going to hold off doing any more tests until tomorrow around 5pm to get on a better and consistent schedule.

Do you agree with Dirk that I can/should hold off for awhile pMaths recommendations of adding baking soda and calcium chloride?

TA - 60 (Target 70 - suggests to add 1lb 7oz of baking soda)
CH - 230 (Target preset was auto filled at 400, though above that is shows 250-350. I changed it to 300 - suggests 6lbs calcium chloride)
 
I do because the plaster is so new. The CH could float up as the plaster cures. We will tweak the TA later. It is the last thing we work on. It really needs to wait until the plaster is further into it's cured state.

Dirk is going to help you watch your csi. Follow his lead.

Kim:kim:
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.