I am using an old TF-100 kit (tackle box container) that has a CYA test tube (20-100ppm) and CYA mixing bottle with red lid. The mixing bottle has a paper label on it. I had to fill to the bottom of the label with pool water and to the top of the label with R0013. The red lid is broken so I went to Taylor's website. The mixing bottles are different than mine. Bottle #9191 (7mL-14 mL) and bottle #9194 (15mL) are different. Both filtered as Residential. I think #9191 is the one I need, but I am not sure.
If I buy from TF Testkits.net, are the bottles, comparators, test tubes, etc., the same numbers? I would rather support TFP/TFTestkits.net.
1. Which mixing bottle do I need? Do I also need a new test tube?
2. The test tubes #9193 (20-100ppm) and #9197 (30-100ppm) are different too. Is there any reason to test lower than 30 for CYA? Every Spring my CYA is non-existent, but do I really need to test CYA below 30?
.....and I found Taylor test kits that said...
"pH (DPD),
pH (acid and base demand),
pH (base demand),
pH (OTO),
pH (DPD low-range),
3. Am I supposed to worry about acid and base demand? Low-range DPD?
4. Then I saw a kit that said "Bromine." I have never tested for bromine. I only use 10% liquid chlorine, granulated stabilizer, baking soda, and Muratic acid in my pool. Should I be testing for Bromine?
5. With a vinyl liner, is there any reason I should test for Hardness? We have a metal pool ladder that seldom goes into the pool unless the grandkids visit. No pool light.
6. Is there any reason to buy the larger pH comparator container and R-0004 that goes with it? I need to buy new Phenol Red, and I know that R0004 & R0014 are not interchangeable. Now is the time to make the switch if I need to.
Sorry about the number of questions...thanks for your advice.
Edit: Why do you use 20 Mule Team Borax? What is a Borate test for? Do I need to do it? Thanks.
If I buy from TF Testkits.net, are the bottles, comparators, test tubes, etc., the same numbers? I would rather support TFP/TFTestkits.net.
1. Which mixing bottle do I need? Do I also need a new test tube?
2. The test tubes #9193 (20-100ppm) and #9197 (30-100ppm) are different too. Is there any reason to test lower than 30 for CYA? Every Spring my CYA is non-existent, but do I really need to test CYA below 30?
.....and I found Taylor test kits that said...
"pH (DPD),
pH (acid and base demand),
pH (base demand),
pH (OTO),
pH (DPD low-range),
3. Am I supposed to worry about acid and base demand? Low-range DPD?
4. Then I saw a kit that said "Bromine." I have never tested for bromine. I only use 10% liquid chlorine, granulated stabilizer, baking soda, and Muratic acid in my pool. Should I be testing for Bromine?
5. With a vinyl liner, is there any reason I should test for Hardness? We have a metal pool ladder that seldom goes into the pool unless the grandkids visit. No pool light.
6. Is there any reason to buy the larger pH comparator container and R-0004 that goes with it? I need to buy new Phenol Red, and I know that R0004 & R0014 are not interchangeable. Now is the time to make the switch if I need to.
Sorry about the number of questions...thanks for your advice.
Edit: Why do you use 20 Mule Team Borax? What is a Borate test for? Do I need to do it? Thanks.
Last edited: