New comparators and bottles for TF-100 kit and other questions.

[pypeke]

I am using an old TF-100 kit (tackle box container) that has a CYA test tube (20-100ppm) and CYA mixing bottle with red lid. The mixing bottle has a paper label on it. I had to fill to the bottom of the label with pool water and to the top of the label with R0013. The red lid is broken so I went to Taylor's website. The mixing bottles are different than mine. Bottle #9191 (7mL-14 mL) and bottle #9194 (15mL) are different. Both filtered as Residential. I think #9191 is the one I need, but I am not sure.

If I buy from TF Testkits.net, are the bottles, comparators, test tubes, etc., the same numbers? I would rather support TFP/TFTestkits.net.

1. Which mixing bottle do I need? Do I also need a new test tube?

2. The test tubes #9193 (20-100ppm) and #9197 (30-100ppm) are different too. Is there any reason to test lower than 30 for CYA? Every Spring my CYA is non-existent, but do I really need to test CYA below 30?

.....and I found Taylor test kits that said...

"pH (DPD),
pH (acid and base demand),
pH (base demand),
pH (OTO),
pH (DPD low-range),

3. Am I supposed to worry about acid and base demand? Low-range DPD?

4. Then I saw a kit that said "Bromine." I have never tested for bromine. I only use 10% liquid chlorine, granulated stabilizer, baking soda, and Muratic acid in my pool. Should I be testing for Bromine?

5. With a vinyl liner, is there any reason I should test for Hardness? We have a metal pool ladder that seldom goes into the pool unless the grandkids visit. No pool light.

6. Is there any reason to buy the larger pH comparator container and R-0004 that goes with it? I need to buy new Phenol Red, and I know that R0004 & R0014 are not interchangeable. Now is the time to make the switch if I need to.

Sorry about the number of questions...thanks for your advice.

Edit: Why do you use 20 Mule Team Borax? What is a Borate test for? Do I need to do it? Thanks.

 

[HermanTX]

With regard to your question on CYA testing. Either the 14ml (7ml pool water/7ml R0013) or 30ml (15ml pool water/15ml R0013) mixing bottle will work. TF kits have the 30ml version. This does give you more overall volume to put into the CYA measurement tube. I read on the forum that the R0013 reagent has a long shelf life so you may be good with what you have. If your CYA Measurement tube is in good shape and clear and still has the black dot on bottom then that should be good as well. It does not matter if your CYA measurement tube goes to 20 or 30 - it just provides you a larger range. If you have very low CYA then the version with 20 may be best to ensure you are getting the right test result.

Bromine testing is normally for stand alone spas. Just go with Chlorine and pH comparative container for everyday testing. The larger size may require more reagent drops so the small version may suit your needs better.

To raise PH use borax or soda ash. Normally pH is raised by aeration (water feature, kids splashing, etc) so borax is seldom used. For lowering PH use either muriatic acid (preferred) or dry acid.

 

[CrystalRiver]

If you (and anybody else) have never added bromine, you don't have any. No need to worry about it.

Some people like to intentionally add borates to their water. If they do, they need to know their numbers, so they can get it high enough to have the effect they want, without getting into potential toxicity ranges. I believe there's an article in Pool School on borates. They're totally not necessary, if you don't want another thing to test for, then don't do it.