New Build Quote - Charlotte, NC - Update: Pebble coming in 2 days

Wolfpack2463

Silver Supporter
Jun 27, 2022
13
Concord, NC
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hello,

Thank you all so much for all of your knowledge and willingness to share, as I've learned a lot over the short time I've been here. I found this site from my other favorite forum(bogleheads.org) and it's been invaluable for preparing me for the pool building process. I'm not near as brave as some of you with the O/B, but have become a much more informed customer. We got quite a few quotes for our build and think we have it narrowed down to our finalist. They recently built a neighbors pool and they are very happy and the quality is something we are looking for. They have also understood our design the best and was able to quickly make changes to match. I'll list the details below, please let me know of any glaring issues. Thank you.

A little bit shocked at how expensive all of the quotes came in (especially without having a spa), but I know we do have a good bit of travertine decking.

Concerns:
The large LED lights instead of some Nicheless. I brought it up, but they didn't seem up to it and quoted like $1900 for transformer and $1500 per light or something. We are already pushing the edge of the budget, so will we be ok with 2 of the Large LED?
They offer an auto-leveler for $1300, but I asked about just a manual fill line and the designer said they can't/don't do that. I would just need to fill by hose. This is something that maybe the PM would know how to do and would be easy to add?
Heat Pump Chiller - we want some kind of heating system, but not sure whether heat pump or natural gas. They said the gas heater would be 400k BTU and would be approximately $6500. We are only interested in extending the swim season on both ends. We aren't going to be heating the whole pool up in January or anything. Which should I go with?
iAqualink is included, it just wasn't on the last proposal they sent.
The salt cell is the TrueClear, is that fine or try to get the Aquapure?
I had them upgrade the filter and add the second skimmer and added an overflow line(it's not listed but it is included).
Pump is the 2.7 HP item# VSSHP270DV2A

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The large LED lights instead of some Nicheless. I brought it up, but they didn't seem up to it and quoted like $1900 for transformer and $1500 per light or something. We are already pushing the edge of the budget, so will we be ok with 2 of the Large LED?

All pool color LED lights have pool reliability and need expensive replacement every few years.

Consider isntalling a standard incandescent white pool light and replacing the bulb with a screw in color LED light bulb that is much less expensive to replace when it goes bad.


They offer an auto-leveler for $1300, but I asked about just a manual fill line and the designer said they can't/don't do that. I would just need to fill by hose. This is something that maybe the PM would know how to do and would be easy to add?

Pool builders are not plumbers and cannot legally connect a manual fill line to the house water system. You need to have a back flow preventer between the pool line and the hose water line.

Have them run a fill line from the side of the pool to the side of the house near a water line and cap it off. Then get a plumber to do a legal fill line connection.

Heat Pump Chiller - we want some kind of heating system, but not sure whether heat pump or natural gas. They said the gas heater would be 400k BTU and would be approximately $6500. We are only interested in extending the swim season on both ends. We aren't going to be heating the whole pool up in January or anything. Which should I go with?

Gas heater. The heat pump will be very slow to heat the pool during the shoulder months.

iAqualink is included, it just wasn't on the last proposal they sent.

Get the RS6 or RS8, not the RS4. People often wish they had more then 4 relays and the Aqualink is expensive to expand.

The salt cell is the TrueClear, is that fine or try to get the Aquapure?

Aquapure is a much more robust SWG then the Truclear.
 
All pool color LED lights have pool reliability and need expensive replacement every few years.

Consider isntalling a standard incandescent white pool light and replacing the bulb with a screw in color LED light bulb that is much less expensive to replace when it goes bad.

Would I still be able to control the color of the lights, via Aqualink, this way?
Pool builders are not plumbers and cannot legally connect a manual fill line to the house water system. You need to have a back flow preventer between the pool line and the hose water line.

Have them run a fill line from the side of the pool to the side of the house near a water line and cap it off. Then get a plumber to do a legal fill line connection.

Great, this is exactly the information I was looking for! Thank you.

Gas heater. The heat pump will be very slow to heat the pool during the shoulder months.
Will switch to the gas heater.
Get the RS6 or RS8, not the RS4. People often wish they had more then 4 relays and the Aqualink is expensive to expand.
Noted.
Aquapure is a much more robust SWG then the Truclear.
Ok, I'll check about switching this out then.

Thanks for your reply and suggestions!
 
I had them upgrade the filter and add the second skimmer and added an overflow line(it's not listed but it is included).
The only item I would add would be to ensure both skimmers are independently plumbed back to the equipment pad and have Jandy never-lube diverter valves on each line. This allows you to control the suction from each skimmer independently. The only added cost is extra PVC pipe and the diverter valves.

All else looks great - with regard to the SWCG - ask for the Jandy AquaPure 1400 model which is rated to 40k gals.
 
manual fill line
Another option is having the PB do the rough plumbing for a fill line, then having a plumber connect it with a PVB to your irrigation system so you can control it as a zone. I have this setup and really like it.

Other suggestions:

-Increase the shallow end depth to 4'.

-Give careful thought to 6' in the deep end. It's too deep to stand, but too shallow to dive.

-Main drain is optional.

-Install an external bypass for your heater/heat pump.
 
The only item I would add would be to ensure both skimmers are independently plumbed back to the equipment pad and have Jandy never-lube diverter valves on each line. This allows you to control the suction from each skimmer independently. The only added cost is extra PVC pipe and the diverter valves.

All else looks great - with regard to the SWCG - ask for the Jandy AquaPure 1400 model which is rated to 40k gals.
I told them to independently plumb them back to the pad, but will make sure it is in writing and will check on the Jandy never-lube diverter valves as well.

Will check on switching to the Aquapure.
 
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Another option is having the PB do the rough plumbing for a fill line, then having a plumber connect it with a PVB to your irrigation system so you can control it as a zone. I have this setup and really like it.

Other suggestions:

-Increase the shallow end depth to 4'.

-Give careful thought to 6' in the deep end. It's too deep to stand, but too shallow to dive.

-Main drain is optional.

-Install an external bypass for your heater/heat pump.
Thanks, I will look into to doing the fill line that way.

Wife want's 3.5 ft.

We have the raised bond beam around the deep end and I know my kids will be jumping off there so that's why I went to 6'. We don't want to go all the way down to 8', but would going to down to 6.5' or 7' be better?

Will make sure on the external bypass for heater as well.

Thank you for you reply.
 

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Wife want's 3.5 ft.
Keep the wife happy. :) Do you have a friend or neighbor with a 3.5' shallow end? Might be worthwhile to try it before you buy it.

that's why I went to 6'
I would commit to a true deep end or go with 5'. But, you'll know how you'll use you pool, so go with what you think it suitable.
 
Alright, we signed the contract and are moving forward!

We are overwhelmed at the amount of choices for interior finish and tiles. I've looked at the pool finish and color viewing post, but still tough to get a good feel. I guess we'll have to check out some neighbor's pools and see in person to help narrow down. We are going to with either Ivory travertine or Walnut for both the deck and the coping, but I didn't realize bullnose coping was not included in the quote. It is about $1k additional cost for bullnose. What do you guys think? Is the bullnose worth it?
 
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We are overwhelmed at the amount of choices for interior finish and tiles. I've looked at the pool finish and color viewing post, but still tough to get a good feel. I guess we'll have to check out some neighbor's pools and see in person to help narrow down.
Pick 3-4 samples that you like, don't try to be precise on exact shade but you should at least know if you want light or dark color. Then take them to a pool with white plaster. Put the samples underwater on the step and look from different angles and how sun or shade affects the color. It is hard to imagine what a whole pool will look like using a 4x4 (or smaller) sample but do the best you can. It will look great in the end.

Once you have it installed, everyone will love it, only you will know all the stress you went through trying to find that "perfect" shade. In the end, it won't matter tremendously. Don't overthink it.
 
Update:

Everything has gone pretty well with the build. There was definitely some lulls in the action and communication could have been better, but overall a good experience.

Pebble is set for 4/21 and acid wash on 4/22.
Fill water test:
PH: 7.5
CL: 0
CH: 75
TA: 40
CYA: 0

No issues with any of those test results, correct?

This site has been incredibly informative and I thank everyone for their insights and suggestions.

I've attached some photos of the build. (Couldn't get them all to load, some said they were too large for the server)

Also, will work on updating my signature.


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Pebble is set for 4/21 and acid wash on 4/22.
Fill water test:
PH: 7.5
CL: 0
CH: 75
TA: 40
CYA: 0

No issues with any of those test results, correct?
Ask your PB if they will provide the calicum to raise your CH? If not, you will most likely need to have it on hand.
Same with TA.
Also, you will need to have stabilizer to add to increase your CYA.
Have you looked at the start up guidelines on the website of your plaster?
Attached is the "standard" startup. Some plaster mfg. follow it and others have their own procedures.
 

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Ask your PB if they will provide the calicum to raise your CH? If not, you will most likely need to have it on hand.
Same with TA.
Also, you will need to have stabilizer to add to increase your CYA.
Have you looked at the start up guidelines on the website of your plaster?
Attached is the "standard" startup. Some plaster mfg. follow it and others have their own procedures.
30 days of pool school is included and I'm not responsible for anything besides brushing until the completion of pool school.

It's Stonescapes Mini Pebble, so I'll take a look at their start up as well.
 

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