New build, 40x20, 3.5' to 5.5', intellicenter with salt water, tanning deck, and a couple of benches. Basic but big is what we were shooting for.
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New Build, Oklahoma - FILL DAY!!!
- Thread starter kaybee77
- Start date
24,000 gallons
Equipment spec'd from PB for comments....
Pump: 1Hp Max E Pro by Pentair
Filter: 450sf System 3 Mod Media cartridge by Pentair
Heater: 400k BTU gas
Automation: Intellicenter with Salt
Sanitation: In line chlorinator
Skimmers: 2
Equipment spec'd from PB for comments....
Pump: 1Hp Max E Pro by Pentair
Filter: 450sf System 3 Mod Media cartridge by Pentair
Heater: 400k BTU gas
Automation: Intellicenter with Salt
Sanitation: In line chlorinator
Skimmers: 2
Hi and welcome to TFP!
What will be going on the other side of the far decking? If it is grass you NEED to go wider to help keep the grass clippings out of the pool when it is mowed.
4' will not be wide enough for a lounger and someone walking around it.
What will be going on the other side of the far decking? If it is grass you NEED to go wider to help keep the grass clippings out of the pool when it is mowed.
4' will not be wide enough for a lounger and someone walking around it.
We originally declined the autofiller, but they installed one anyway out of habit. Since it's free, I've been reading into plumbing this one up but I've also ready on here that many people discourage them. I'm fine without it unless there are compelling reasons to get it plumbed up. We do get large rain events in the spring in Oklahoma, but largely dry in the other 3 seasons (yes, we get all 4). Not opposed to just hanging a hose over the edge or whatever people do without an autofiller. The only water source I have close to the pool is a yard faucet. Thoughts?
Shell forms are gone, tile done (but was the wrong tile and they didn't ask before installing), deck grading now. Waterline tiling will have to be reinstalled with correct tile... next week.
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You can always turn it off if you want to test to see if you have a leak for some reason. The only problem with them is you don't know you have a leak until you get your HUGE water bill at the end of the month.
OH NO! How wrong was it? Did they even offer to let it stay and take some monehy off?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,612
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Very easy to plumb in a powered ball valve on the autofill line. Wire that to a relay in the Intellicenter. Then just have it on for period of time each day or every other day or whatever is needed.
The simple float valves rarely fail.
The simple float valves rarely fail.
thewolf56
Bronze Supporter
- Aug 3, 2015
- 239
- Pool Size
- 15900
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I'm very new to pool ownership, so take this advice with a grain of salt in regards to the autofill. Have it plumbed with a shutoff valve near the house, so like Kim said, you can always turn it off. You could also take out the float valve and use the valve to manually fill the pool. My mother's pool (built in 1995) just had a piece of PVC terminated at the waterline tile that just used a valve to manually fill. Having the autofill without the float valve would be similar, except instead of the water entering the pool directly, it would just enter the autofill basin and then into the pool through the equalizer tube (or whatever the technical term for it is).
My pool was filled just about 7.5 months ago and I would not be without an autofll here in AZ. We have hard water here, so my autofill is plumbed to my soft water
There are definitely some downsides to an autofill. I ran into one of them (which reminds me, I should probably update my thread). I have high water pressure at my house and I recently discovered my float valve wouldn't close even when my desired water level was reached. I thought my Flume would have warned me, but it somehow slipped on my water meter, so it wasn't accurately reading the water flow. My salt usage for the water softener wasn't really above normal either for the house, so that didn't tip me off either. I ended up getting a new brass float valve and it actually stops the flow.
Another pitfall is having an overflow drain and the autofill, because if that valve stops working correctly (incorrect water height set, stuck on open, leak, etc.) the excess water would just go down the drain until you have that huge water bill.
My pool was filled just about 7.5 months ago and I would not be without an autofll here in AZ. We have hard water here, so my autofill is plumbed to my soft water
There are definitely some downsides to an autofill. I ran into one of them (which reminds me, I should probably update my thread). I have high water pressure at my house and I recently discovered my float valve wouldn't close even when my desired water level was reached. I thought my Flume would have warned me, but it somehow slipped on my water meter, so it wasn't accurately reading the water flow. My salt usage for the water softener wasn't really above normal either for the house, so that didn't tip me off either. I ended up getting a new brass float valve and it actually stops the flow.
Another pitfall is having an overflow drain and the autofill, because if that valve stops working correctly (incorrect water height set, stuck on open, leak, etc.) the excess water would just go down the drain until you have that huge water bill.
Thanks all for your advice and insight... any ideas on what to do with the yard/barn faucet? Assuming the right thing to do is dig to the source water line and T from there rather than hook to the faucet with a splitter?
Deck pour in the next week or so. Correct waterline tile has been installed, and we added some leading edge bling tiles to the tanning deck, stairs, and benches.
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Pretty tile on the steps and shelf! Well done!
I don't see any "chairs" under the rebar for the decking. They could be broken pieces of brick or plastic Lifter uppers. So long as the rebar is not sitting on the ground. Now if they say "We will lift it up as we pour that is a HARD NO! You and I both know it will only sink back down from the weight.
I don't see any "chairs" under the rebar for the decking. They could be broken pieces of brick or plastic Lifter uppers. So long as the rebar is not sitting on the ground. Now if they say "We will lift it up as we pour that is a HARD NO! You and I both know it will only sink back down from the weight.
There seems to be some debate about if you need to lift rebar on a 4” deck. From the concrete experts I’ve talked to, they seem to be of the opinion that rebar should be in the lower third of whatever thickness pour you have rather than straight in the middle. For my rebar there is lots of areas of gaps between the steel and aggregate, so I’m not going to sweat it. I’ve visited 5 of their other builds and all looks great.
I know what you’re saying, the whole “well lift it during the pour” routine is a joke.
Deck poured and equipment set, and some grading done too. We think we’ll get plaster in the next week or two. Still need electrician (next week) and intellicenter and ic40 installed.
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Traffic jam this morning, but that means we're closing in on fill day! I'm also putting in a french drain to help with water management. My yard slopes down in the back in the direction of the pool. Waiting on rock and underlayment to do it right.
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Sorry for the newbie question, is there a benefit of going with a pump like this as opposed to the 11075. I am going with a smaller pool 12k gallons but I am being sold a 3 HP pump
I forgot to update my profile, we upgraded to the 3HP variable speed pump. That may be why your PB is spec‘Inc a 3HP, for the variable speed.
Plaster today! PebbleSheen Blue Granite. Also doing some drainage work myself.
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SWEET!! What start up are they using?
www.troublefreepool.com
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