New build - Katy, TX (near Houston)

Hi Scott,

Well, PB can "bait and switch" just about anything in the contract that doesn't have specific "specs" or model numbers. One thing I am pretty sure I got screwed on is the quality/grade of my travertine deck. I am pretty sure my travertine is not grade A (lots and lots of HUGE holes). Travertine stones I saw at PB's showroom sure looked nice and didn't have as many holes. I think PB kind of felt bad about the quality of travertine. He asked me to put blue tapes on ugly holes, so his workers can fill them in with grout... I wish I specified the brand, source (turkey, mexico) or the grade of travertine in the contract.

For my automation, my contract initially said "Hayward automation controls" without any mentioning of specific model names. Hayward has several lines of automation. Older/cheaper line offers you a TI-85 like remote controller that you keep around the house. That's considered "automation". Hayward Omnilogic is the newest line that enables you to control everything through a phone app. Before I signed my contract, I did my research and demanded PB to put "Hayward Omnilogic 8 control slot(?)" in the contract. I believe Omnilogic also comes in 4 control slots, which means you can only control 4 equipment instead of 8.

Initial quote had 3 x 18" scuppers, but it didn't mention the material these scuppers were made with. I automatically assumed they were stainless steel scuppers, but I found out they make them onsite out of travertine stones. I immediately changed that to cascading water features.

Once you receive a quote, do your homework and ask PB every details, and try to specify pretty much everything down to the material, model number or the specs.

Good luck!

Hey Jay,

what are all the "bait and switch" good better best moves that the PB will try and get me on (ie how you caught the generic brand vs real peppetec) this stuff drives me insane

Scott-
 
When I started to get quotes from various PBs, I didn't even know the difference between scupper vs. cascading waterfall. Since my pool is more modern, cascading waterfall works better with the design. Autocover should work with water features as long as you don't turn them on while the cover is on.

thanks Jay ....its all in the details i guess and trying to stay ahead of them.......whats the reason you pulled the trigger on the scuppers can i do the water feature with a autocover?
 
Thanks for the clarification. I admit I didn't bother researching the various types of travertine finishes. I think I would have been more happy with "honed and filled". Small holes and variations don't bother me much, but I am not a big fan of large holes... I am currently considering getting an epoxy filler...
When buying travertine “Honed and filled”
is the spec for grouting the holes.
 

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Today is the day I convert my pool to salt water pool! To prep for the conversion, I got 10 bags of 40lbs salt from Home Depot. I ran the robot for 3 hours in the morning. Then, balanced CYA (70), CH (350), TA (80), FC (6), and pH (7.4).

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Online salt calculator tells me I will need 9 bags. I am taking the lazy method of getting to 3000ppm. Instead of buying a salt level tester, I plan to dump 6 bags first. Then, slowly increase the salt ppm by checking the Hayward's salt ppm sensor reading in the app.

I dumped 6 bags of salt around the pool, and swept around the bottom of the pool until I didn't see any white crystals. Ran the VS pump at 85% for 4 hours. Out of curiosity I turned on the Hayward app to see if salt concentration sensor is getting any readings... Then, I see this...

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I did mention about the error message when the Hayward tech was visiting 2 days ago. He said it will start to work once I put salt in the pool... Well, now I think of it, even if there isn't any salt in the pool, SWCG should still put out the voltage and current... I feel like even Hayward techs are not familiar with setting up SWCGs in Houston area... LOL

Hayward tech is coming back tomorrow to take a look.. Hopefully, he studies the SWCG setup manuals/training materials before he shows up tomorrow.

Question: Once all the salt melted, water seemed to show slight greenish tint.. Is this normal? FC is 6 right now. I heard about salt oxidizing metals in the water... Should I be concerned?
 
Slow and easy is a good way to go especially with temps cooling off. Add 3 bags, stir, keep pump running on high overnight. Next day add 3 bags, stir, keep pump running on high. Then add one bag, stir, keep pump running on high. Test...then repeat as needed. Thats just my opinion...
 
I'm not sure four hours is enough to mix in salt. It might be, but I'd give at least a day between testings myself. I know my SWG is not supposed to be engaged unless salt is well mixed in. Batches of high-salt-content water followed by low-salt-content water are bad for it. I suppose that is the same for all SWGs. I didn't even power on my SWG until I knew the salt level was stable across all the water. Like many days after. And while I agree its really the cell that gets the "final word" when it comes to how much salt is in the water (it'll either fire up or it won't), personally I wouldn't rely on my SWG to give me accurate readings. I'd want to know that my cell was giving me a salt reading that was within a reasonable range of what the actual level was (which I determine with my Taylor kit). But that's just me...
 
Quick update. Hayward tech came out the next day, and he had to reinstall the Omnilogic's operating system. Apparently, it's a well known bug in their world. Anyways, SWCG is up and running, and the first average salt PPM reading I got was 2,800 PPM. I initially put in 6 bags. Then, I had a "hunch" that 6 bags weren't enough, so I dumped another bag in the day before. Salt concentration has been holding 2800 ppm steady for the past 3 days.

My initial impression on swimming in salt water is very positive! Water feels so soft and my skin doesn't feel so dry when I come out of the pool. I do taste a very slight salt in the water, but it's not salty at all. Water tastes less saltier than my own tear.

Now, I am trying to figure out the run time schedule on this SWCG. What are your run time schedules and at what percentage? I seem to generate too much FC. On the first day before turning on the SWCG, my FC was 5 at 9AM. After running the SWCG for 5 hours (from 11am-4pm) at 70% my FC went up to 7. It was a hot and sunny day, so in theory my SWCG cranked out FC of about 4 within 5 hours (assuming the FC loss of 2 due to sun). After this, I rescheduled the SWCG to run 3 hours at 15% in the morning, and another 3 hours at 20% in the mid afternoon. But, since FC was 7 the night before, I skipped the morning run time, and only ran the mid afternoon schedule. That night, I got FC of 7 again. It was sunny day again... I read somewhere in TFP that my SWCG is supposed to generate about 0.5 FC per hour at 100%... So, I'm still trying to figure out the sweet spot...
 
My schedule is 7 hours at about 50% (in mid summer), but every pool is different. You just have to do what you're doing. What worked for me was not trying to get the SWG to move FC, just maintain it. It's easier to work up, then down as you're doing. So say you start with FC5 at dawn end up with FC3 at sunset. You'd manually dose with liquid chlorine the next day back up to FC5, and then up the SWG output a bit. Try again. Repeat until your FC held. If you try to do that FC2 jump with the SWG's booster mode, you'll be at it forever. I'm high right now, with the weather cooling, so just turning down the SWG is not working all that well. I have to do what you're doing, turn it off for a period of time, to let the pool reset to my target FC, then try a lower output setting the next day. It's all trial and error. I've been recording everything in my Pool Math app (SWG output adjustments and dates) so hopefully next year will go smoother.
 
I run my pump (2 speed) for 6 hours at 60% and my FC stays around 6/7 range which is fine for me. Also I only run the pump during off peak utility times (if that matters to you). There is a SWCG calculator (use the search in top right of page)...
 

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