New Build (Jax FL) - Pool Filled 10/12 - In Startup Phase

[TampaKathy]

I'm surprised at a few things...backfilled before installing pvc for returns and lights? The holes for the returns and lights look high...supposed to be 12-18 inches below waterline and looks like there is rebar in the way of the skimmer. Give the gunite a good soaking.

 

[Blancmik]

@TampaKathy thank you for reviewing.. I just measured and the holes are each 12-14 inches below the top (measured to the middle of the hole)... hoping that's okay?

The PB did acknowledge the rebar...it's also exposed in the spillover area from the spa. They said they would simply trim that when they come back to do the plumbing.

 

[TampaKathy]

Oh OK, that's more than it looked like...so that's about 9-11 inches under water. Probably ok...hopefully someone else can weigh in if they disagree.

 

[Blancmik]

Progress continues

The PB was onsite this morning and they expect to have the plumbing and equipment installed tomorrow; tile next week.

I asked about the depth of the light and he said that he already noticed that the niches they put in the shell were not only too shallow, but also not in the right places, so they will drill new holes (I really like my builder). I'm assuming they will just fill the bad holes with more concrete?

I also read about the need for a wider door in the cage to accommodate large furniture since I'm caging off the slider. They will be installing a 42" screen door in place of a standard 32" door.

One last thing I've noticed... there is a hole in the bottom of the shell about 8 inches wide... the sump pump under the shell is still running and keeping water out of the pool. I'm assuming they will fill this with concrete, but any idea on what the hole is there for? It's not the main drain... those are plumbed in the bottom of the pool.

 

[JamesW]

there is a hole in the bottom of the shell about 8 inches wide... the sump pump under the shell is still running and keeping water out of the pool. I'm assuming they will fill this with concrete, but any idea on what the hole is there for?

Just to be safe.

It looks like you're near water and they are probably worried that the pool might float if the water table gets too high.

What is the lake water surface elevation relative to the bottom of the deep end?

If it is higher, you're at risk for floating if the pump goes out.

 

[JamesW]

The heater control panel looks like it's going to be awkward to get to.

 

[Blancmik]

Visually, it looks close, but I think it’s slightly under the shell (of course this could change with a lot of rain). They did not have to install a well point… there is just a little disposable pump that they had running before they shot the shell.

I’m assuming once the pool is filled with water, any concerns about the shell “floating” would be mitigated?

Just to be safe.

It looks like you're near water and they are probably worried that the pool might float if the water table gets too high.

What is the lake water surface elevation relative to the bottom of the deep end?

If it is higher, you're at risk for floating if the pump goes out.

 

[JamesW]

It's hard to tell, but I would estimate the lake about here.

In any case, once it is full, the concerns about floating should go away unless you need to drain.

I would want a 12" or 18" dry well around the pool to allow for easy monitoring of the ground water level and easy ability to control the groundwater.

 

[Blancmik]

Interesting, thank you for the videos, those were really helpful! I’ll talk to the PB about this!

 

[Blancmik]

Some good progress these last two weeks. Plumbing was installed and pressurized last week and tile took the last 4 days. The tile guy really took his time to make sure it was done right. Waiting for the bonding and plumbing inspection and footers next week.

 

[RocketManTex]

Some good progress these last two weeks. Plumbing was installed and pressurized last week and tile took the last 4 days. The tile guy really took his time to make sure it was done right. Waiting for the bonding and plumbing inspection and footers next week.

What waterline tile is that? Looks like what we selected.

 

[Blancmik]

@RocketManTex - my apologies about the delay. The tile is by NTP Pools. Isola Sardinia Masisosar 6.

National Pool Tile 6"x6" Isola Sardinia Tile - MASISOSAR 6

Deep blue surface with brown details give this tile a woodland forest appearance. Natural looking texture enhances the glossy pool tile. National Pool Tile 6"x6" Isola Sardinia Tile - MASISOSAR 6

www.thepoolsupplywarehouse.com

 

[Blancmik]

Been busy with work and travel the last month, but we have made a lot of progress! Footer, Decking, Electrical and enclosure is just about done (just in time for Hurricane Ian later this week ). If not for the storm, the pool finish may have been done this week, so they will get it done next week.

We had a lot of extra pavers, so wanted to send a shout out to my builder for putting pavers on my front patio for free.

I also need to thank the forum (I forget which thread I read about it) for the suggestion on a large door. We upgraded one of the doors to 42" vs the standard 36" on the 2nd door.

We've been watching the SpaceX launches while sitting on the spa coping the last couple of weeks and cannot wait to watch the launch while in some warm water and a glass of wine!

 

[Blancmik]

Getting very close! PB did the shell cleaning, sprayed the bonding agent and cleaned up/graded the area. Hoping we get the pebble finish installed next week .

I do have a question on fill water... I have two hose bib's on my home. One is before our home water filter/softener and one is after. Curious on which I should use to fill? Below are the readings from my TF Pro test kit:

• Hose Bib - Straight City Water
  • FC: 2.0
  • CC: 0.0
  • PH: 8.2+
  • TA: 120
  • CH: 150
• Hose Bib - After Filter & Softening
  • FC: 0.0
  • CC: 0.0
  • PH: 8.0
  • TA: 100
  • CH: 0

I'm assuming there is no CYA, so didn't bother trying to measure that.

Thanks!

 

[wireform]

Hose bib STRAIGHT for sure as you'll need the CH for the pool so it'll give you some and the rest you will need to add to bring the CH to TFP spec.

 

[Rich D]

Have you checked both sources for metals? Once metals are in the water they can not be removed they can only be managed.

 

[Rich D]

Curious on which I should use to fill? Below are the readings from my TF Pro test kit:

That should definitely be a discussion with your PB. He is the one that will warranty the work.

 

[Blancmik]

Thank you both for the quick replies. I’ll share the readings with the builder and will see if the local pool store can test for metals. There is certainly something in the water as the whole home filter goes from pure white to clay orange after six months.

 

[Rich D]

There is certainly something in the water as the whole home filter goes from pure white to clay orange after six months.

That "Sounds" like iron. I would definitely get it tested asap. I am not sure you can fill your entire pool with just a home filter. I personally would opt to pay for truck water instead of using any water with iron in it. After the initial fill you can use your filtered water to maintain the water level.

 

[Blancmik]

Plaster team just left and will be back tomorrow to do acid wash and fill . How long should we expect to wait until the kids can swim?